Help with lining everything up for first time crank
 

I've got a 12A and the water pump/fan, alt and crank pulleys were off. Now I'm in the process of turning the motor over for the first time.

How should the crank pulley be installed on so I know the correct point at which the motor is at TDC? There's a little notch on the inner ring of the x-centric shift "inner pulley(?)"; what does that indicate? Here's a picture of what I'm talking about:
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/...ank-pulley.png

Does that "notch out" determine how the pulley should be bolted up to the shaft?

This is my first rotary motor experience. I've been referring to the FSM but none of the instructions or pictures are helping. The motor is already in the furnace and the radiator is installed and full of coolant so it'll be very difficult for me to get to the shaft bolt to remove it. The motor is in a corolla by-the-way and there's not much space between the rad and the crank pulley.

I'd appreciate any useful advice/guidance. Thanks in advance.

doc

I'm not sure abotu the notch but if you are looking through the inspection cover on the exhaust side of the engine... when you line up the flat section of the flywheel parallel to the exhaust flange then the engine is at TDC. Your marks should be close to the pin. Should easily be able to determine bolt holes by then.

someone correct me if I am wrong.

I'll give it a go FerociousP.

I had checked everything out a couple of days ago and it all did line up: with the flat portion of the flywheel parallel to the exhaust flange, the distributor rotor did line up with L1. I did some more discovery and found that both the accel coils that came with the engine were either bad or possibly the incorrect type (made the internal resistor type for points?). Testing the trailing coil (MSD Blaster Coil 2), that checked out to be in working order.

I'll have to double check my DLIDFIS wiring for the leading coils just to be sure. Thanks again for the hand up FerociousP.

Quick update: Found the problem with the DLIDFIS setup - the "vertical" male/spade connector of the lead pickup connection on the dizzy was bent slightly enough that when I connected the 2 wire connector it would just miss to the side of the connector housing. I couldn't see this becase the rubber boot over the connector was hiding this fact. Lead and trailing coils are all firing properly now after straightening out that spade connector. I also noticed that this time there was a bit more noticeable resistance when slipping the connector on. I confirmed spark.

Thought I'd share for those interested.

Great to hear that another rotary isn't down for a simple reason. Congratulations and glad you were able to troubleshoot.

I'm anxious to hear it fire up so I can better tell the condition of the motor.

Thanks again for the feedback FerociousP.

i have one for an 84 gsl se and noticed it didnt even have one just a paint marker i suspect it caused more problems than it solved and they did away with it

So just curious; I'm in a similar situation as you. On the distributor, which pickup is leading and trailing? Are they marked? I can't seem to find anything that tells me on it. :-/

1

Sorry- ignore my "1" post