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Nice pics. I was thinking to myself before I saw the measurements that your old seals looked to be in decent shape. As Kevin said, I wouldnt have reused them either unless it was a race engine or a quickie job - but not something you'd want to run down the road for a few years.
Very nice pictures too - your camera works better than mine! |
Oh and about the triangle part - is it designed that way to endure more stress? At the angle its being pushed on, I can see why a curve is harder to break - but does that mean it will also hold more compression for a longer period of time.
Since they are factory mazda seals, is that curve just a design change since the years have gone by? Your old seals look like factory. I think thats awesome for mazda to go back and redo a design for a seal used in an engine not produced anymore... |
Also if you look closely, the lil top the spring pushes, its smaller on the new seals
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^ Well damn - I thought it was something more technical, lol. Still a good point though although I've never had issues putting seals and springs in before. I do flip the seal though for BP engines...
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The GSL-SE has such good oil injection that the seals will wear far beyond the limit of 7mm to th epoint where they break at around 5.5mm or so. If you can catch it before any of them break, there is a good chance the apex slots in the rotors will be in great shape. None of that slot widening you get with 12As and early carbed 13Bs with their inferior oil injection into the carb. By the time those hit 7mm, the apex slots are usually quite wide and require a new rotor or careful tapping of the tips back together, which is not a very good idea.
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I think I will have better luck using JHB rotor housings and OEM seals. |
this is some good info here....
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