tips on building a high rpm motor
 

so far the engine ive planned to build is this
-s4 turbo motor ran as a na bridge ported(used housings/irons)
-s5 rotors
-race rotor bearings
-rx8 eshaft
-rx8 front and rear stationary gears
-cryo treated 2mm apex seals atkins
-cryo treated side seals atkins
-solid corner seals
-new apex seal springs, corner seal springs and side seal springs
-aluminum light weight flywheel
-rotating assembly balanced

So with that being said is there anything i should lookout for when it comes to either building/running this motor, should i change or add any parts to the list?

Throttle body injection. I wouldn't run a carb for high RPM engines. If you are up high in the revs and running through a curve, it would suck for the bowls to empty due to the G-forces.

$$$

Do the RX8 stationary gears need to be hardened or pinned?

What about eshaft oiling mods and any mods to increase oil pressure?

Mazdatrix says there already hardened but I haven't seen anywhere else that confirms this. As for oil pressure im not sure if you can do the eshaft mod with the jet or not. I'd assume so and I was going to do a racing beat adjustable oil regulator.

Dj I'm staying away from fi I might go to a weber 51 downdraft though

I believe the 8 stat gears are hardened and I did do the jet trick with the 8 e-shaft, you'll just need a little heat to remove the factory jets.

Here's a thread Chadwick had done a while back when he built his race motor, pretty good wright-up:
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...spelling+myths

How high do you want to go?

The rx8 stat gears are Case hardened so they good to go. A good mod for high RPM is to machine your rotors. Side clearanced with rotor tips also. A lightened rotors will also help with high rpm, oil jets , race bearings and all the oil mods you can think of with out dry sumping it :)...

Hope that helps .
Chip U

Yeah, what To_Slow said, do the clearancing while the rotating assembly is sent off for balancing. Very important process for a reliable high RPM motor, as well as oil mods.

Hmm lot to think on thanks for the help so far.

Zach- I remember that thread but I'll have to go read it again.

Robert- not sure gotta keep up with zach somehow

2 piece e-shaft
http://www.rotaryengine.com/services/eshaftinst.htm

"It's just money." - Adler

Done.

http://sixpacktech.com/wp-content/up...iple_Turbo.jpg

the Rx8 gears are hardened, in fact everything S5+ is hardened.

you want the FD oil pressure regulator + turbo oil pump. baffle plate is good too.

i'd say you're good to go to at least 9k, the guy who does the balancing should be able to give you a better idea.

weber will work fine, it takes a while to get the jetting right, but when you get it right its very nice. if its a street car a holley 4 barrel isn't a bad choice either, its a little better @part throttle, just because its a 4 barrel.

on the port, you want to keep the closing port timing around stock, intake opening should be earlier than stock, but the earlier you open the more overlap you have and the pickier the engine is going to be.

its a really FUN car when you get it setup right

Yea I forgot about the baffle, thanks for all the pointers gonna start ordering more parts this weekend.

On the turbo oil pump is s4 or s5 better or are they the same

same.

the better one is the FD pump, but because they decided to feed each pump rotor separately, instead of feeding the front rotor thru the rear one. the improvement though is in the casting on the iron. if you have an S5 iron you might have the casting spot to be able to do this.

I got a s4 so I guess it'll be ok, what's your opinion on reusing tension bolts vs buying new ones or studding it fczach and I have went back and forth on this topic