Quick minor questions
 

So just getting things finished up so I can get my 7 out of the garage and driving before summer is over.

Q.1

According to that other forum bolts on the Powersteering rack for looping the lines are 2 m12x1.25 and 1 M16x1.50 both about 10mm long. Where can I find some? I have checked atleast 4 different hardware stores and none have them.

Q.2
I am using an Rtek ecu for my 6 port turbo setup and I have retarded the timing using arghx's timing maps should I enrich the map a couple percent or should it be fine till I get to the dyno. I plan on staying off boost just to be safe.

Q.3
Does anyone know which wire is a switched 12v line is on the stereo system? I was planning on tapping my gauges into there using the light on the cig lighter as a constant 12v and such.

Heres whats in my car
http://www.mnmazda.com/forum/showthr...s-Fire-Rebuild

Arghx's timing map that I am using
http://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php?...87&postcount=2

Fastenal or McMaster

Dunno, what are your lambda's like at cruise, idle, vacuum? Adjust accordingly and err to the rich side. Bring a spare set of plugs to the dyno and pull the old ones after the cars' strapped down before the fun begins

Blue with white......... iirc........ how sad is that..... check the FSM to verify it. If you're using it as a turn on and the A draw is low, use an unsed circuit to provide power and the B/Y off of the Main Relay to power the relay for the gauges.

I think that's a bit to much split under the higher loads. Timing looks pretty good though. Maybe a bit too aggressive for a high comp engine though

Are you using a turbo Rtek with turbo sensors?

^ Yes I am

I have yet to wire in my wideband EGT and Boost gauge... :/

I just need to find that switched 12v line looks like I need to get digging in the FSM

B/Y or B/W are switched 12V that are constant through cranking which is important. you're in the unfortuneate situation where you're still running all stock ign/inj components that rely on those wires so I would use them to power a relay, and that's all.

I BELIEVE that the L/W wire (audio amplifier?) is hot through cranking as well. I believe it's called ign 1 in that little box that breaks out the key positions. That's the one I would use UNLESS you have the factory amps still up and running.

Again, this is all through memory so I could be wrong.