mounting batt fuse block? ideas?
 

so im looking for a way to mount the battery fuse block.... the battery is relocated but now the fuse block just flops in the wind and i dont like it i want to hard mount it. and if it had a neg side to it this would be easy but its all positive. so what have others done? or any ideas to do so. if i can find a stiff acrylic or phenalic to make the bracket out of i could tie it in the positive terminals and mount but i dunno if itd be strong enough.

ill check out the hobby stores after i get her rolling again currently installing oil coolers and HID projectors but figured id go ahead and try to mount that fuse bock as well.


so idears?
z

I braze a bolt to the metal strip on the finder side of the fuse holder then attach a nylon block to insulate the bolt and strip from grounding .The metal mount for the other fuse relay box mounted on the finder gets an extension brazed on to mount the nylon block .By counter drilling the holes in the nylon block the nuts are below the surface and are not in contact with each other or a ground .On my car I made a plate to mount the sound system fuse and a fuse cover .I have done several of these with out any problems .

damn you garfinkle all that crome i cant see!!! lol but seriously i thought about that too but i have a template bracket made up ou of aluminum i just need o find some carbonfiber plate now though. but its angled and bolts to the fender side 2 bolts to the back with the leads then down at an angle forward to attatch to the bolt for the headlight motor brace. ill get a pic soon. im not all about shiny show presentation there dave just function lol its just soo shiny

z

Polished alum ,not chrome

impressive

z

I'm not sure if I understand your reason for using a carbon fiber bracket, but CF will conduct electricity.

I once allowed a +12V battery cable to rest against carbon fiber panel thinking it was non-conductive like a plastic panel... it wasn't quite the same as a short circuit to metal but there were enough sparks that I won't make that mistake twice.

ah yes you sir are correct totally spaced it.

z

I have the same issue that I must address. Granted my engine & tranny are out right now for my Single build, but it will need to be addressed none the less.

I'm thinking of fabbing a bracket out of the battery box or stock air box..... gotta be something usable out of all that freaking plastic ;)

You need one of these.

This:

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/...littlepost.gif


or this slightly bigger one:

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/...ed/bigpost.gif


First ones rated at 300A second at 500A I believe. You will probably need one with a 5/16" stud as I'm sure the hole size is the same as an RX-8 even though I've never measured one. This would also give you a location under the hood to add to the positive cable.

If you want one let me know. Either style can be black or red. There's not really and coverings that will fit with that fuse block hanging of this though. I checked already. If you want to oversized the hole to 3/8" I have a couple of these right now sitting around for general usage. I should probably put them for sale on my website but I was waiting for the stainless hardware to show up before doing so.

Anyways PM me or email me

I relocated the fuse block with the battery to the passenger bin, theres just 4 circuits to relocate and two of them are routed right back to inside the cabin.

I did things a more complicated way and ran the HEAD circuit straight to the headlight switch wiring at the steering column. Then I used the old HEAD wiring to run the EGI circuit and shorted EGI and HEAD wires together in the engine bay. The B2 circuit can be spliced right at the ignition switch. So I only had to run 1 additional small 12 gauge wire to the front of the engine bay for the RETRACTOR circuit.

http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/u...x7build084.jpg

That's good to know as I plan on building a compartment for the battery below the body next to the fuel cell, and relocating both blocks behind the trim in the rear. I suspect I'll be lengthening alot more wires though.

Why lengthen? Just replace them. If you need something custom made let me know. I'll get you taken care of.

Anything that needs to be done, I am more than capable of doing myself, but thanks for the offer. I'm planning on running the chassis harness that goes north of the firewall through a Mil-Spec bulkhead connector and a deutch connector to the bumper to make things easier.

The reason for modifing as opposed to building from scratch is ease of repair/diagnostic. Start with the FSM and a copy machine and take notes as needed. Way faster/easier in my experience.

I understand your reasoning, believe me. I've seen a lot of hack jobs in my time. Make sure your Mil spec connector is of the appropriate type for the amperage your carrying and all that. You seem to have a good grasp on what it takes though so don't take offense to that please.

A lot of people think just because its mil spec that it is automatically for high amperage and that isn't true at all. There are many, many different types and pin sizes. I'm sure your aware of that. I'm stating it for anyone reading this in the future.

Deutch connectors are great for weather tight stuff. much better than weatherpack in my opinion. Although most people use weatherpack since thaey are available at almost anywhere.

I'm really not a fan of weather pack/metripack. I use them... ALOT actually, but for more important things - CAS, HAL effect sensors, Ignition harnesses, etc etc etc... Deutch is the way to go. I've used weatherpack in bilges of boats before.... we're talking a few inches of water, so basically zero pressure, and the water gets in and kills the wires. Weather/Metripaks are fine in a slash proof application, but really not for anything else.

I've got the complete book for Mil-Spec connectors and I'm eying a few with some 12ga pins that will be nice to get some real power into the nose for fogs, headlights, retractors etc etc. Then they have 16-20ga pins for marker lights etc etc. I love those little connectors. I put one on my wipers in the FC :rofl:

On that Amp note.... I'm using them for my fuel pumps. 16ga is rated for 13A which is exactely what my pumps draw... each. So I had to go with some 9 pin??? connectors. 2 gnds, 2 hots, 2 returns, and one for the sender.