djmtsu's WTF am I thinking? (FC build)
 

Alright guys, might as well.

I have had my FC for a long time. Going on 7+years I think. It started its life as a lowly one owner 1990 GXL. I did nothing but drive it for a few years. She ran like a champ, and was a great car. AC was ice cold, everything worked the way it should.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_OFjbTkyhkOs/R7...0/DSC00542.JPG

Then one day, she popped. It was my fault. A very busy weekend, had a party, and only moved the car around from the garage, to the driveway, to the yard, then back to the driveway. Next morning, she fired up, idled for 10 seconds, and blew the rear seal :(

Time for a turbo swap.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_OFjbTkyhkOs/R7...0/DSC00557.JPG

I contacted Rotary Resurrection, and a few weeks later I had a complete S5 TII longblock with all sensors, ECU, harness and an NA flywheel so I could keep my driveline. I was in college, so I had to keep it cheap.

Here's the engine going in.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_OFjbTkyhkOs/R7...DSC00559_1.JPG

While the swap was taking place, waiting on the engine to be built, it was broken into. That is a whole other drama situation. They got an Alpine flip out touchscreen with DVD player, a 10" sub and amp.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_OFjbTkyhkOs/R7...0/DSC00560.JPG

So, I did an audio downgrade, and a gauge upgrade.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_OFjbTkyhkOs/R7...0/DSC00635.JPG

When the swap was done, I had a few little upgrades. RB FCD, RB DP and silencer, craptastic catback, cone filter. No emissions. Swapped out hatchback glass for a non wiper version, and replaced the switch with a non-rear switch as well.

At this point the paint was starting to fall off. The car was rocking Mustang wheels, and handled pretty bad. Too much stagger in the wheels meant understeer at DGRR....for two years.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_OFjbTkyhkOs/R7.../s800/FC12.jpg

Next was the exhaust. I picked up an Apexi N1 Evo catback from a local guy, and gave away the shitty old one. Also added an Apexi Twin Chamber BOV.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_OFjbTkyhkOs/R7...0/DSC00942.JPG

Then I lucked out. I found some BBS vert wheels somewhat local for $75 with center caps and tool. I sold the caps and tool for $75, free wheels!

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_OFjbTkyhkOs/SA...800/dgrr16.gif

I also got the first set of JKL Engineering's bumper guards. I started the GB for them, and had them made so the driver side was a block off. Your welcome if you have these.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_OFjbTkyhkOs/SA...s800/dgrr9.gif

Another small upgrade was the Euro-spec RX-8 5spd shift knob, short throw shifter, and new shifter/ebrake boots from Indyparts. I need a new ebrake handle, I know.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_OFjbTkyhkOs/SQ...0/DSCN0134.JPG

More to come.

A few goodies have been ordered.

-Haltech E6K should get here today.
-Banzai OMP block off

What I need.
- 800-1000cc injectors
- IC piping
- aluminum radiator
- boost controller
- wideband
- flange for Apexi BOV

If anyone has any of the goodies I need, please let me know.

Do I need to worry about a narrow band O2 sensor since I will be running the Haltech and a WBO2??

Hey DJ, I forgot to mention this in the PM, my 750/1000 injectors are going to be sold real soon if you're interested in all 4 lemme know. Be plenty of fuel for 375ish @ 85% duties.

No need to conisde the narrowband at all if you have the WB feeding it's signal to the Haltech and the display.

Well, with the E6K you need to do some clever conversions to utilize the wideband. I could only ever get it to display voltages in a log, then you have to convert them to AFR outside of the haltech software. I do know there's a wierd version of the tuning software that would allow you to display AFR but I could never get it to work - although that may have been because I was using an X.

The narrowband is only useful for closed loop with the K and X, but if you get a wideband with a simulated 0-1v output you can use that to power the CL in the haltech.

Really depends on what you intend the ECU to do. I never had ANY issues tuning perfect cruise without closed loop FWIW.

Also, I have an AEM tru boost sitting around. Works excellent as far as boost controllers go. For what we're doing here that is. Its got a great alarm/overboost feature (tested first hand at 25psi :lol: ), holds a hi and lo setting, peak recall etc. Only issue I had with it is the display is digital (since its a boost gauge as well) and i found it tough to glance, read a number, and think of whether or not its where it should be etc. In that regard I prefer a needle type gauge but its just a personal preference.

How much Dave?

$150 shipped?

And how did you find out my real first name :lol:

I think I will take it. I can paypal this weekend. Just PM me your info.

We have met a DGRR a few times. Nametags!!

Plus, I thought all Canadians were Dave.

Or Darrel.... wait...:suspect:

so will this thing be ready??? I find it funny how people were talking about some "lack of support" for Megajizz, yet a premier brand like Haltech can't even run a wideband properly? OMGWTFBBQ! Were you using an AEM wideband? THey have a weird signal coming out of them, you should try using the Innovate LC-1 wideband instead, it puts out a better signal and is more compatible with shit.

Car looks great man! Those wheels will look good once installed:)

Small update, nothing of real importance.

Before I started any work, I wanted to be sure that the compression is good. So jfaplanet brought over his Rotary Diagnostics Compression tester and laptop.

WOOT! All is good. Front rotor had one face that seemed a little low, but that could be from sitting for quite a few months.

Time to tear off the manifolds and start diagnosing.

What we did with mine is throw a carb on it and see if starts that way it narrows it down for you

I used several different widebands. The AEM worked fine, in theory, its just that its output voltage never matched the reading the unit gave. They followed eachother decently but the output was always .2 or .3 leaner the display. It wouldn't matter what you used though, its a function of the K and X's software not scaling the voltage to anything, they just display what the channel is receiving.

And yes its a little disturbing that a simple piece of software hasn't been added to the unit in all these years, but keep in mind that its their cheapest entry level ECU. Anything thats better then the X does not only wideband display, but wideband closed loop and a slew of other features. As well, it DOES work on the K and X, its just a matter of being a PITA to convert.

DJ, my paypal addy is classicautobody@hotmail.com and you can call me Joe :) just attach your address in the comments and I'll box it up!

Joe Mama?

So I think I have narrowed down the problem to a simple bad injector.

I need to get it back together.........to sell it.

I bought an RX-8