fusible link
 

Alright so i fryed my fusible link on the gsl se, its the one that runs to the alternator and to the ignition. We replaced it with a fuse and now everytime we start it it will pop that fuse. The wire going to the alternator appears to be good no burn spots or anything. my question is how hard is it to get the wire going to the ignition out and could it possibly be something else

Check the alternator.

it blows em when its not hooked up to the alternator so it can't be that right. Like itll start run for a second then pops the fuse so its gotta be something past the ignition that it grounds to right?

The wire never was on the alternator when it blew right? The battery was connected, they wire was removed and touched a ground?

So the alternator should have NOTHING to do with it.

use a multimeter to check before and after the fusible link... neither should have 0 resistance when the other probe is grounded

what kind of fuse do you use to replace a fusible link?

we tryed 10,20s, 40s it would pop em all

well if these storms ever lighten up i will get charles too take a look :beatdeadhorse5:

i removed the wire off the alternator, and then it hit the alternator and popped the fusible link


but the car started last night and sounded awesome just need to get this wiring thing figured out and ill be good to go :icon_tup:

congrats on getting it started, i'll be over there after work to see your handywork.

i may be there may not gonna give this storm a little more time for the traffic to dye down

wait...let me get this straight. You tried using a 10 amp, 20 amp, and a 40 amp fuse to hold current against a MINIMUM 70 amp alternator?

When I replaced the ungodly fusible link block in my buddy's gsl-se I used a FC fuse block and bracket. used the FC fuse pattern and matched everything up nice and tidy. NEVER once blew a main fuse (which is the alt fuse), and we bolted up a S4 fc alternator and used the stock 80amp fuse to keep the power in check.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...s/DSCF1718.jpg

Slightly shitty pic of it installed, and sadly the only picture of the setup, but it mounts to one stock bolt hole, then you may have to drill and rivet the other hole, or look into a re-speed mounting bracket.

we were trying to look up the amperage on the fusible link and couldn't find anything on it. we think its the alternator thats poppin the fuses im gonna change it tommorow and see if that fixes it thanks for the info may switch it to the fc block

Np, I didnt see anyone post anything regarding the main fuse/ fusible link amperage so I figured it could help seeing as you tried everything that was far too small. Ive got a spare FC block that im going to use on my StarQuest soon as I get some straight amperage answers from those guys...

im sure charles has a spare harness hes got a spare everything else haha, if not ill just have to wait till after the gap to swap it out.

IT RUNS woot

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...th_bluecar.jpg

So what fixed it to stay runningish?

a higher fuse and a better connection to the alternator no problems so far drove it yesterday and did a couple shake down runs it in today. should be ready for the dragon after paint.

If all of your connections are good, and all grounds are correct you don't need a larger fuse block. If any of the grounds are missing or bad they can cause all sorts of electrical problems. It will try to find ground anyway it can causing overloaded supply wiring. Check voltage drop through all connections.

If you up the amperage you can overload the original wiring. After you get it sorted and it will not blow regular fuses call Ray and get the fuse links. You can also find fuse wire at some parts or electronic stores. You can then make your own. Putting a penny in the fuse holder works until the house burns down.

But what im getting at is that a FB, more importantly a GSL-SE, alternator is putting out 50~70 amps (right?). By using a 10amp (which blew), 20 amp(which blew), and a 40amp(which blew) size fuse its safe to say that the alternators current was blowing the too small fuses. So in practice a 60~80 amp fuse works fine, which I suggested which nobody else has, other than use another fusible link.

I dont know that it is about fusible links that I personally dont like, but a fuse is easier to source, buy, install, and check if blown than one of those links. Sure others may see the stock fusible link block as fine, but for others where the block disintigrates from heat and age the FC block is perfectly adaptable to make a secure location for new fuses, and you can then add a fuse for another accessory since the FB would only use 5 of the 6 available slots.

If all of the grounds and connections are correct and good then there will not be any fuse blowing problems. If you have to resort to using bigger fuses you haven't fixed the problem. Just masking it.
One of the things with fuse links is that they very rarely go bad unless something serious is wrong with the electrical system. All of the onboard fuses will usually fail first. The fuse links are all supply side so if they go the issue us usually between them and the main fuse block. Alternator or wiring or headlight system or wiring are the most common causes for them to blow.
If you over fuse them you allow more current through the wiring harness and electronic components than the system was designed for. Most of the wiring is designed for 10 or 15 amps. If you run more through they will overheat and eventually fail.
I don't know how many wiring harness jobs I've done where someone replaced the main fuse with a 8 gauge wire and fried the complete wiring system.

Save your self grief down the road, go to one of the FSM sites and download the wiring diagram for that year platform and check out the whole system. One of the most important parts is the W page, showing the Electrical Wiring Schematic. It shows how everything is interrated. Playing with one circuit can effect other circuits.

I've had cars that blew the audio fuse but there were problems in other circuits. Usually someone doing creative wiring, not wanting to pay someone to do it correctly and or not having the wiring diagrams.