need some help
 

i bought my 1st rx-7 the other day.he said everything was there to put it back together.and its not:banghead: .i have got all motor pecies that was in the car put back on.and im still missing some.and i have no idea what.
and if you guys happen to have these parts just sitting around for cheap i will buy them.

so i took some pics and was wondering if you could help me.
its a 1988 mazda rx-7 s4 se with the 13b non turbo

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m...5/DSCN3977.jpg
something goes there.to the silver pipe to the black hose.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m...5/DSCN3972.jpg
what goes here?intake?
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m...5/DSCN3971.jpg
the thing on top..idk what that is

Well the thing on top is for a cap and that is where you add water and all that...

The second pic is def the intake and looks like you need an air box and filter. The black hose is for the air pump and that needs to be connected to the air box as well...

And as for the first pic... i am a 3rd gen dude soooo might need more help on that one.

THe first pic is for a little electric solenoid. Give me a sec and I'll look it up in the FSM for you.
http://www.rotorwiki.com/images/e/e2...missionsNA.pdf
Page 3
That is the location for the Air By Pass Solenoid.

thank you!

where can i get that hose thing.im missing the adapter thing.and the correct name so i can order one.

hey, I have an S5 airbox sitting around, would it fit his car?

he needs an s4 airbox or a cone filter and adapter, most advances and autozones have them

the first picture is where the aws solenoid would go, you do not want that on your car, it's useless, makes you car rev to 3k on startup

Cap the nipple on the manifold, and run a rubber hose from the metal one directly to the fitting on the bac valve.

Also make sure the hose is connected to the intake boot on the other side of the metal pipe.

i just ordered a intake. and new fuel pump
it was just the cheap ebay intake but i ordered a injen filter.went to autozone an got a adapter.just put ngk wires and plugs in the car.changed the oil.the oil in it was pretty clean already.

Well it sounds like you are making good progress with this.. gl man. Hope that it goes well. Need anything else post it up!

i will.thanks.
i just now looked under my car for the 1st time and nseen that there is no exhaust from the headers down to the Y pipe....anyone got a stock one laying around?

I do, but they're gutted.

it dont matter.how cheap would you let it go for.
i just need the middle peice.to bolt on to the back of the headers and to the Y pipe.

You have a PM.

is it a header or a stock manifold?

stock.the whole car is stock.

for now

Now that's what I like to hear!

Pic 1. Air Bleed Solenoid, it's an emissions part. Not to counter anyone else's advice but I suggest you put it back unless you've done your homework and you know what it does and why.

Pic 2. Intake filter box assy. I see you said you got an adapter from auto zone... Keep in mind that the air flow meter you see sitting in front of the intake hose is REQUIRED or the vehicle will not run for more than a couple of seconds after you start it. I'm not sure if you can find an adapter to fit that at auto zone but that's pretty cool if you did. It should look something like the metal adapter pictured in this ebay listing: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-92...ht_4167wt_1085

3. Coolant fill cap assy... missing the cap and the little adapter that mounts on the filler neck. http://www.mazdatrix.com/b8.htm

Also, I see in pic two that you're missing the radiator fan shroud. I HIGHLY recommend you replace it and also check to be sure that the splash gaurd is installed under the engine. These are both essential to direct airflow through the radiator and engine bay and heat is a major concern in these old rotaries. There should also be a two piece plastic cover over the gap between the engine bay and the front bumper, I can't see if it's there in the pics. This is also important for directing air through the radiator, if it's missing you can pic up a nice one piece replacement from corksport. http://corksport.com/store/category/...rx-Engine.html

i already have the intake adapter and all the plastic pieces that you mentioned.

but really..50 bucks for a small piece?does anyone have one used?

again i do. lol.

i got one at autozone for $15

so did i yesterday.
thanks

well..they had the wrong part...but now i have the car running..sorta..it starts up then shuts right off.idk what the problem is.help?

and i still need the parts in pic 1 and pic 3

Un-metered intake air is known to cause this issue. Make sure you have the Air Flow Meter (AFM) installed, connected, and is sitting level (it uses a flap to measure incoming air so if it's not level the flap may be affected by gravity and the reading may be off). Also check for major vacuum leaks. The car runs because the ECU ignores the AFM during startup but as soon as it switches from the "start" sequence to "run" the car dies because the AFM reading is too far off from what's actually making it into the intake.

il try that out later. just woke up.

Although you're right about the AFM function at startup, it doesn't seem to be the issue here.

(Correct me if I get any of this wrong)
I talked to him earlier and it runs for about a minute then shuts off. It idles at about 1500rpm roughly, and then no matter what (hitting the gas, not, etc.) it just dies after a while. Every vacuum leak I've ever had it's possible to keep the car running by hitting the gas (including when I left the BAC hose off so there was a HUGE amount of unmetered air going into the engine [granted it would only run at over 5k rpm, but it started and did run]).

AFM usually does cause that problem. I'm not sure if it's for a minute and a half though. Maybe at the most 30 seconds with Cold Start Assist still intact. I'd suggest setting the TPS as well as the bleed screw up top. Beyond that I would check the condition of the injectors, insuring that they're running correctly and firing and not seized.

The AFM only comes into play after 500 rpm. As such, why would it run perfectly fine for about a minute and then die no matter what's going on? That doesn't indicate a vacuum leak to me. Granted, it would if you could keep it running after that point by keeping the idle up. However, in this case, (from the info I was given and my understanding of the issue), engine speed does not change the fact that it shuts off.

The injector thought could be plausible. It was in a field before he bought it and he's been working on getting the bad gas out. However, again, why does it shut off no matter what?

This is all based on the assumption that I understand the problem correct from a 5 minute phone call. :)