Premix at the pump
 

The next time I take my FC to the pump, I plan on pouring in some 2-stroke premix. About how much premix should I add per tank? What type of premix do you guys use?

I was thinking of using Royal Purple 10W30 and premix once spring (racing season) comes around, but I'm sticking with 10W30 conventional for the winter.

Stock S4 N/A 13B. The oil metering pump is in place and working.

I generally use about 1oz per gallon.

every time you roll over a couple of gallons, add a couple of ounces. 1 gallon of gas/1 ounce of oil is the rule of thumb.

why do you need to premix if you still have the OMP?

If you have the OMP still working, 3-5 oz per TANK, is all you really need

I second this. :icon_tup:

I only use the best for mine...

http://www.rotorsportsracing.com/ima...su/2843jpg.jpg

1oz/gal

No you don't, Amsoil Interceptor FTW!!!

I just got done researching both of these...while Idemitsu is a very very good choice, Amsoil uses more cleaners and makes your engine nice, shiny, and almost carbon free.

+1, 1oz per 1 Gallon is the measurement for non OMP vehicles.

Keep in mind guys - as it always in when premixing anything (cars, bikes, lawnmowers, etc) you add the oil to the tank FIRST and then add the gas... otherwise it won't mix evenly. You use the pressure from the gas pump to slosh the oil around and mix properly.

If you are using the stock OMP you really wont need more than 3 to 5oz like others have mentioned. Going more than 100:1 is a bit much....

I use the Wal-Mart cheap stuff. Let's be honest here, unless you're running some obscene hp (or something...), I really really doubt you could tell the difference after 100,000 miles between mine and the stuff that costs 5x as much.

i use wal-mart stuff as well. 1oz/2gal. and im at 417whp.

Not as its running no, you notice if your the one doing your own rebuilds. Your parts come out clean as opposed to carbon coated.

Though, if you could collect all that carbon and make Apex Seals out of them...

I use the Penzoil Marine Pre-mix

If it has TCW3 on it, I try it. Haven't found my favorite yet, however.

Probably because there's hardly any difference. :)

Exactly. ;)

We'll see what happens when I tear down the engine next.

[QUOTE=WE3RX7;63559]Keep in mind guys - as it always in when premixing anything (cars, bikes, lawnmowers, etc) you add the oil to the tank FIRST and then add the gas... otherwise it won't mix evenly. You use the pressure from the gas pump to slosh the oil around and mix properly.

I add my pre-mix last. My theory is, the fuel return will circulate the mixture.
I use Johnsons-Evinrude from Wal-Mart.

Bear in mind that yep, the fuel system will circulate and mix the fuel/oil..........EVENTUALLY. But what about all the oil left in the filler tube? Its a corrogated tube (in sections) with lots of ribs to hold oil. When you're adding .5 liter's to a tank of fuel, and 1/3 of it stays in the filler hose is it ideal? :)

I add the oil first, always have in anything I premix fuel for. If you've done it the opposite way in a gas can, you'd see why.

Also, I use amsoil with TCW-3 but will use anything I come across with TCW-3 if I'm in need somewhere away from home.

^^ Exactly, you got to it before me,lol.

Adding the oil last and relying on the return system isn't the best circulation method for a few reasons. Big one as classicauto mentions is because of the filler neck design. The other is you won't get proper mixing due to the baffle design in the tank. Not to mention, for anybody running only Premix and not using the OMP with it, that time it takes to mix what was in the baffle near the pickup may result in pulling in fuel w/ no oil at all and if your on the track at 5K+ RPM and pulling in fuel that hasnt been fully mixed yet, your causing damage, ableit slowly to your engine.

The best solution really is to premix in the can and then add to your tank, but thats a luxury many of us dont have, so at least put the oil in first and let it slosh around a bit. I even go as far as rocking my car around a bit before driving when filling up from an empty tank, just to make sure it all gets into the baffles appropriately.

Good idea, will make sure I toss the premix into the tank before driving up to the 91 pump.

If you are trying to knock me, let me tell you this.

"TC-W3® has demonstrated the necessary lubrication performance quality needed for these more demanding cylinder/engine conditions."

It says nothing of cleaning power

I wasn't trying to knock you or anyone. Can you provide me your information on the differences between Amsoil, Idemitsu, and the cheap stuff?

Also, I think the car felt better when I premixed with Marvel Mystery Oil but I've read there are drawbacks to that mixture as well. Since then, I've been reluctant to premix with it.

I find it amusing that we rotary people will try putting anything in their engine, ranging from gas to random premix oils to ATF... :p

Anyone using the Rotary Aviation OMP adapter? I'm going to buy it eventually. There is only one reason I want to use this set-up, pre-mixing gets annoying after a while. I'm going to use the cold start assist tank as my reservoir.

lol. So true.

Rotaries pretty much like everything :)

I tried to find a good write-up on it but I got nothing.

What I can tell you is that it really comes down to the cleaning chemicals in the fancy oils that make the real difference.

I mean sure, I bet they are better lubricants...but obviously not required.

My buddy ran Amsoir premix and after two tanks visibly saw the rotors almost clean as when he put them in as opposed to two tankfuls of cheap stuff earlier where they were coated in carbon.

When I hunted last the only big difference between Idemitsu and Amsoil was their price and cleaning capabilities. Amsoil is the most expensive but cleans the best.

So assuming you're right I could do a couple fill ups with the expensive stuff and then go the rest of the year with the cheap stuff. Sound about right?

^ Just run the good stuff right before you engine pops so you'll have a clean core to rebuild :)

I'm already running used housings and rotors... not much point. :)

Thats one way of looking at it...assuming your car goes the slow way.

Running the good stuff will also give you a almost carbon free environment the whole way making for a healthier and stronger engine until death.

IMO anything will be better then putting engine oil into the chamber with the stock MOP.

I used to run an off brand back when I had a few close successions of engine failure and to be honest I noticed no difference between engines I've ran on amsoil (current ones). There's probably differences between the two with additives and whatnot, but both are much MUCH better suited to being burnt in the chamber vs. 10W30 or whatever is in your oil pan. Either one will be leaps and bounds ahead of stock in terms of carbon buildup on the internal parts.

Wow, so many differing opinions! I was initally wondering because my FC's oil pan gasket is seeping and I haven't been able to fix it yet. The premix is an insurance policy. I was also thinking along the lines of ClassicAuto and how premix is probably better for the engine than the engine oil.

How is premix a safety measure for your oil pan seeping? :toetap05:

+1. The oil in your oil pan is not only fed to the OMP...its also fed through the eccentric shaft, oil cooler, rotors, and stationary gear bearings.

Premixing will not help any of that.

I know, I know, I've been putting off getting the oil pan gasket fixed. Wishful thinking, really, like the premix will somehow stave off my engine's destruction in case the oil pan somehow goes dry (the seepage is very slow, however, and I check the oil level religiously). I'll have to put it off a little longer. We're going to get slammed with over a foot of snow all this weekend, so I won't be able to get it to the shop.

Heh, alright then. Had me a bit worried. :)

You can just use black RTV and not have to worry about a gasket. Hell, my new Mazda 6 didn't come with a gasket from the factory, just RTV.

Oil pan gaskets have a record of failing. I haven't had mine fail on me yet but heard lots of accounts where they did fail. It seems the FD guys have it especially bad.

Next time I rebuild the engine, I'm strapping on an oil pan brace and try using some sort of gasket maker instead.

The oil pan is a stamped piece of quasi thin metal, so I bet a bunch of them get a bit warped causing leakage.

I already have the gasket, so I'm going to have both that and RTV used to stop the leaking.