Keeping a hill climb turbo rotary cool
 

so i now have a directive. BUT the biggest issue i believe i am going to face is trying to keep the car cool.

Some important information to get you up to speed:

• FC3S chassis
• 13B Engine. Will be sporting a large streetport.
• Forced Induction. Still stuck between either a Camden S/C or a T4 setup. I have been advised by several rally folks that the stock Rx7 turbo wont handle the prolonged stresses.
• hill climbs range from 6 - 12 miles, obviously, uphill so the car will be under extreme loads for minutes at a time.

So as far as keeping the whole shebang cool. I can see the choice of forced induction really being the major factor. If i run the turbocharger, i will need a larger inter cooler and i believe the oil temperatures will be higher due to the proximity of the exhaust heat plus there will be an impact on the coolant assuming i use a coolant cooled turbo charger.

If i run the Camden it is oil cool only, and not exposed as directly to searing exhaust heat. This would also not require an inter cooler and therefore, save a serious amount of space in the engine bay for the radiator and the oil coolers.

Everything will have to be carefully placed and ducted for its own protection (first priority) and for optimal flow. I will have to see if i can maybe lay the radiator in a v-mount style and chop the hood to have air directed. Might partially work as a creator of down force as well.


OIL:
I plan on running two, 18"x14" oil coolers with -10AN lines with fans and a chance of a mister system is things get real bad. The stock oil cooler will not keep up and even the Mazda Comp. Oil Cooler is somewhat lax on doing the job.

COOLANT:
Will have to run the best radiator i can find and use every trick in the book to improve cooling starting with the build of the engine. Ill have to see how intense the heating system really is to see if a mister will be used here as well.

Talk to BLUETII, he hillclimbs his FC. I believe he's running a Vmount, but don't know about his oil cooler and rad setup

is he on this forum?

those with V-Mounts, how well does everything "work" per say?

Not that I'm aware of...he's over there in lala land :)

ill have to see if i can find him then

If he's running a v-mount then you know exactly what his radiator setup is :rofl:

my "plan" is to run a v-mount like setup since i feel it gives the best attention to the radiator. I will also be running a mister system of some form or another. I have a CO2 based kit with a smaller tank on hand. I might see about using it on the inter cooler with a much larger bottle then perhaps a normal mister onto the radiator.

:lol: I meant specifics of it. Dual or single oil cooler, rad type etc. :)

CO huh your not doing pikes peak are you?? v-mount would be best bet but you might look into methanol injection to help keep things cool air-charge wise. used with your intercooler it will give you subambient charge temps as well as deture detination and cooling down egt temps. as far as a radiator you might look into a custom made one i doubt anything current would allow you to run 9min balls out without help. try getting in contact with fritts from design engineering works he made a real decent one for the FD i believe the radiator is dual pass 2in core.

z


evans 0 psi coolant is said to be mothers milk for keeping temps in check in a rotary although not cheap

Intercooler/radiator evaporative water sprayer or a/i.

I've heard good things about evans, it won't boil at any temperature you'll see but it does have a worse specific heat than any of your water/glycol mixes so you will have a tendency toward higher temps.

that was one partially lucrative idea, running the water sprayer constantly. Also the idea of using a CO2 system was a possibility because it would leave no water on the track but i would have to see what the rate of flow is vs. size of bottle to see if it would last an entire run or not.

That particular system is high pressure, the idea being very very small droplet size. None of the water should make it to the track. A variation of the system was adapted as a through the filter auxiliary water injection sprayer- and the filter wasn't wet. I have a dirt cheap system with a boost switch and a windshield washer bag & pump. It's not nearly as efficient but my temps return to normal far faster than they did without.

Hmm...well that might be the best way to go then. The nozzles seem cheap enough and i can build the system from pieces, plumb it how i need, etc.

YOU'RE IN OHIO AGAIN!!! LOL Just send the car out to me when you finish it and I'LL take it up the hill, HAHA.

dont you have a ping pong game to attend to? :)

I have retired officially, but I choose to come out of retirement every now and then to beat our Deployment Commander, like just a little bit ago HAHA.

Evans is very "cool" stuff. Possibly flammable. I've seen sprint cars pop a coolant line and since Evans is polymer based. Let's just say it was an exciting show. You couldn't see the car for the flame job. I am planing on using Evans in my race car this next season.

It sucks, I hate it, horrible idea






:suspect:








:smilielol5:

local rally car guy running a turbo II used a truck radiator and a chevy thermostat

If temps from the turbo is your concern why don't you try a rearmount? By doing that you'll keep the engine and turbo heat separate making the engine easier to cool. Just my $.02

too much stuff going on underneath the car. Hillclimbs equate to bottoming out

Really, didn't realize that. Well good luck. Was just trying to help.

I would run a turbo with a larger turbine wheel and a/r. This will help keep EGTs under control with very long pulls. V mount with a vented hood sounds like a good idea. I'm not sure if its mentioned, but water injection would also be a good idea. If you are really worried about underhood temps, we offer a lot of stuff to combat that.

http://www.turblown.net/store/index.php?categoryID=18

http://www.turblown.net/store/index.php?productID=55

http://www.turblown.net/store/index.php?productID=32

This LIM heat shield is very impressive! I wonder if it is 100% sealed? I have noticed that the very bottom portion of the LIM ALWAYS gets heat saturated even with certian heat shields.

255.00 is a bit steep BUT if it is 100% sealed it would be worth the heat restriction benefits.

thats rather shiny looking! Well see how the build comes together. Right now i have to finish the rally car before i get crazy on the other rx7. I might run pikes peak in 2011 in the rally car if im not co-driving for my friend. we shall see. thats over a year away so the hillclimb / road course car might be up and about.

Something that hasn't been mentioned is ceramic coating. I know that Swaintech has a black body coating for radiators, intercoolers, etc that increase the heat dissipation. It's also used on the cold side of turbos. You can also gain some benefits from insulating the exhaust manifold and hot side of the turbo along with the downpipe. Also look at including an oil to water heat exchanger. That way you tie your oil and coolant systems together and are able to increase the volume of your heatsink and increase the cooling area. If you wanted to go the extra mile you can coat the exterior of the engine housings to either dissipate or hold in heat. I don't remember which Swaintech recommends.

Heat-shields, properly designed air splitters, high water content coolant, you should take the time if its run especially hard to "fin" the oil pan and anything else you can air cool. read the book MAX BOOST by Corky Bell for great advice on designing baffles for air flow. just minimize the effects of the heat you are creating so go for heat wrapping and shields on the exhaust and then maximize the amount of cooling you can achieve by all those other things ive said.

The very bottom is sealed.

I recently had a customer do one of our turbine housing heat shields ( his turbo kit has his turbine close to the lim) and he picked up 7rwhp on a back to back test... Not too shabby...