Wheel/Tire size computer found, is it correct?
 

I've read the fitment thread and searched many others as well as search wheel/tire size computers like: http://www.rimsntires.com/wheel.jsp?...7&carYear=1987 (which is pretty freaking awesome, even shows guaranteed fitments with tire sizes) but still curious based on others experiences, I don't want to eff this up. .

The fitment thread here on RCC is concise and foolproof http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ead.php?t=1828. The first post states "I've been told that +30 on a 8 inch rim works perfectly." but the wheels I have my heart set on are 18x8" and appear to only come in a few offsets, with 35 being one of them.

My question is: Will that extra 5mm cause fitment issues specifically with my non-coilover suspension?

If the calculator link appears to be accurate, maybe someone could sticky that to this forum?

I've seen 17x8 +35 and 17x9 +35 called the "ideal" front and rear wheel dimensions and I've seen a few examples in person. Based on that I'd think your 18x8 +35 optons would be okay. I guess the only concern would be the extra 1" diameter since the springs get larger in diameter.

Even though I have adjustable coilovers, I can share my experience. My old wheels were 16x8 +32 with 225/50R16 tires. I had two issues: the inside sidewall rubbed one of the coilover lock collars and the outside sidewall would catch the lip on the inside of the fender. To get around these I used a camber bolts to rotate the hub away from the coilover and ran about -1.5 degrees of negative camber to get away from the fender, which still had to be rolled. Had I run a 17x8 +35 I don't think I'd have run into either of these problems.

Yep, that's the one factor that I'm worried about.

17's. Just sayin

Eh. .

18's look too big on an FC body, and the tires cost more.

Lose, lose.

^And they are heavier than 17s or 16s, which costs you performance.

To be fair, these wheels are only 18lbs

It's the non coilover suspension that might bite you in the ass. My rims are 17*8 and 17*9, both + 35 and I have no issues.
Run 245/40/17 up front and 255/40/17 rear. I could go larger on both ends and plan on it :D

Sure

Neg, I run 18's on the enkeis with the hoosiers. I can't quite remember the sizes... lemme see if I can find them. They're fucking huge though. Like 275/30/18 & 245/30/18
The actual sizes of the hoosiers don't translate well to street tires. the 245 R6 is significantly wider than the 245 Toyo's

Actually.... lemme see if I can dig up the receipt.

:awesome: Linky?

Sexy.

I emailed my guy at the tirerack asking for the receipt for the Enkei's I bought... when I get that info I'll post it up. Worse comes to worst I can always look at the wheels over the weekend

You only want these because they are 'rotary forged'.

I'm worried that the offsets will be weird, or they'll sit too flush.

Yo shit needs lips brah.

Guilty :iagree:

Aight, heard back from my guy at le rack of tires

Front -
Enkei RPF-01's 18*8.5 +30, Hoosier R6 245/35/18
Rear
Enkei RPF-01's 18*10 +38, Hoosier R6 275/35/18

Yes - 10" rim, 275 wide tire, stock body work. Rolled the lips that was it. Tire would rub the exhaust heat shield and the lower control arm so ideally a +35 I think would work but it would definitely rub the quarters at that point. Well actually..... I'm sure the width on 275 streets would be smaller than a 275 R6. So there's that.

Well I'll take that as a definite yes that I can fit 18x8 with 215/40/18 on all four corners without a doubt. . May need to do something about the non coilover suspension so it could definitely fit. .

245 35 18 - RX7 = Performance car :icon_tup:


215 40 18 - RX7 = Daily driver :icon_tdown:

My 'vert with stock suspension was running 215/45/17 with room to spare. Stock suspension I think I was 235 at all fours.
When I got the coilovers is when I got serious about tire width.

If you're going the non coilover route there is no reason you can't get a square 235 setup. Problem is that the rear is vastly different from the front. So you can run big staggers, and personally, I prefer that look more than the square. The rear is much more sunken than the front.
I MAY be running down with the track trailer, in which case I'll also be bringing the Hoosiers :D

Hehe. I think my tires are wider on the Cosmo.

:smilielol5:

The problem is that we're talking about NOMINAL #'s...

One tire with a 225 width isn't going to be the same as another's 225 width.

I've had a pic of my 8.0", +30 fitment with a 215 wide tire up front with stockish (unknown brand spring on GAB shocks - think KYB AGX) front suspension, and I manage to stuff a 6mm (~1/4") spacer in between the tire and the (bottom of) the spring.
If we do the math, a 225 wide tire would basically eat up all the space...

Yes, I've heard of 8.0", +35 spec wheels fitting up front, but I wouldn't risk it from my experience; be prepared to run a thin spacer just in case you hit stuff up front...

Watch out for aftermarket springs, as I know for sure the Tanabe GF210 and Tein's run larger diameters on the bottom coils, which gives you LESS clearance on wheels.
I'd put money these spring + a 8.0", +35 wheel will almost never fit...

Aftermarket coilovers might be a problem, as most will run a 7" height spring up front.
This means for most people that the adjustable lower spring collar will most likely be adjusted all the way DOWN.
Again, this DECREASES clearance...

Realistically, you can run 225's for square fitment.
If you get the (front) offset spot on, you can run 235's.
I find that FC's running close to 300 (or more) can easily overpower these narrow tires with the right foot.
I really like running 255 square, but it's next to impossible with stock front fenders...
I like running 255 / 40 / 17 tires on 9.0" wide wheels; you need an offset of around +20 (minimum) to +15 to get them to clear everything up front.
The problem with this combo is that it'll hit the fender lip!
Wider (fiberglass) fenders are an option (which I don't like) or serious modification of the stock fenders is needed.
This 255 square set-up is fun with FC's running in the 300 - 400hp range, which covers most of the cars out there that are modified.

I have fitment pages for wheels and tires here:
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/RT/rims.htm
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/RT/tires.htm


-Ted

By the By.... 18's on an FC :D

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6034/...dc9e1426_b.jpg

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...8&d=1389413665

See DJ, that looks good! Old man!

Looks queer.

Queer.

Alright! Alright! I'm getting off your lawn! !

:facepalm:

I think they look great Brian! :auto:

Thanks Zach! Fitment was TIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIGHTer than virgin ass

To be safe, I'm thinking I'll need to go with a coilover setup. . Shit's close with a stock wheel and I don't want to be pulling fenders, the poke and stretch thing just isn't my style.

I liked the look with 16's I had on my old red FC. It's too bad wheel and tire options are so limited with 16's. I need to get a good picture of the setup on the orange FC: 17x9 +22 with 255/40R17 all around although there's no way that will work with stock fenders.

They look good. Better than the owner for sure.

Still too big. Like donkey dong. Right Bri-bri?

In that case, prob the sexiest donkey dong ive ever seen

Fresh as fuck breh
neva lyft breh

I've got 18x9 235-40 and 18x10 265-35 +20 offset with a slight pull on front no rub. Thinking about selling them.

Still the best thing to ever happen on the Dragon.

This is my desk at work, right now
And yes, that is what I do to RX8 T/O bearings :rofl:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...8&d=1457721000

You're always close to my heart DJ :kiss:

That is awesome.

Thread properly derailed.

It almost looks like you're working on the FLOOR... :D


-Ted

:lol: Indeed DJ, Indeed

:rofl: Yeah well.... didn't want to go putting client information all up on the interwebz and stuff and junk