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Your experience with various coilers
I've had good experience in cars with BC coils but thats about it. Im wanting a good quality set up for my car (performance, ride, adjustability, blah, blah). What other brands have you had experience with that you would recommend that aren't overly expensive?
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I feel like I've had this conversation recently lol...I really like Tein Flex coilovers. Got them on my FD and Miata. I don't know what you consider "aren't overly expensive" but you will get what you pay for.
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just realized i didn't finish typing coilovers.... anyway. I am a big believer in you get what you pay for .. but i also don't want to buy an over capable set if i don't need to. I like the price of the BCs and the quality of them. Aren't the Tein Flex around $1100?
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No complaints with my Stance coilovers (old GR+ model: 1-way adjustable, inverted front struts, and rear helper springs). I think all the ~$1000 coilovers (Stance, Yellowspeed, BC Racing etc.) come out of the same shop in China or whatever. I've had good experience with the Customer Support staff at Stance though (in the U.S.).
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You know what the super drifts where like.
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ya i forgot you had those. i don't quite remember what they felt like. that was a long time a go haha. you don't still have them do you?
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No Ryan bought them built a BP na. Then last i heard it was crashed on 10th ave bridge racing a shitbox that cut his lane while they where racing and hit him.
I liked them a lot but they are short stroke and very agro spring rates are very high as compared to the BC's. |
You have most likely talked to everyone more lately then I have. Well I talked to Sean a while back when I saw him and his daughter out for a drive.
Talked to Matt a little while back. |
Are you racing with them?
I.e. autocross, time trial, drag, road race, etc? -Ted |
Honestly check out http://mcasuspension.com/ they are doing all the good WTAC cars at the moment. For $1500AU you couldn't go past the blue suspension at the moment. They were chasing an FC late last year so they have set them up to suit the vehicle properly. I plan on ditching my tiens for some later in the year. With the exchange rate like it is, it's a good time for you to be buying Australian LOL
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I like the Tein Flex on my FD for the money. Plus you can add the EDFC and adjust them from inside the car. I hope to be able to get car on track this year but it has been great for street and mountain driving (Deals Gap, etc).
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It sounds like you want them under $1,000 (if possible) or just around that price...?
If so, you're going to have to give up some adjustability and options. I absolutely do NOT touch anything China / Hong Kong / Taiwan / Korea. Almost anything from Japan (legit) is overly stiff for street use - maybe I AM getting old. :P This includes Tein. Absolutely best street suspension I have ever been in an FC is a Koni yellows + Ground Control coilovers. This is not so much the GC components, but the Koni's... Koni's are Euro...you can't go wrong with Euro suspension components. Koni yellows - by themselves, for the FC - are like $500 - $600 for all 4 corners. Problem is that the fronts are "strut inserts," and you need the hack the bottom, stock MacPherson strut housing to make them work. Also, these are not drop-in fitments, so the strut shaft are not the same dimensions as the stock pieces. GC sells their coilover spring kit for $450 - $500. Combine that with the Koni's and you're already at the $1,000 mark. GC does sell a "premium" suspension package with their camber / caster plates for a cool $1,699 on their website. The FC really doesn't need the caster adjustment, but the camber adjustment is welcome, especially if you drop the car significantly or want to fine tune the alignment settings for race... Just to state the obvious, you can usually get the (GC) pieces (I would recommend you buy the Koni struts brand new) in good used condition, and springs don't usually go bad. I know there's cheap coilover spring kits out there, and most of them would work with the Koni's (GASP!), but try and get name brand springs like Eibach, Hypercoil, etc. One of the biggest problems with those complete coilover systems is that if they start to go bad - and they will - how will you service them? Tein does have a USA service center. Most of the other brand do NOT - even most of the Japan brands like Cusco, HKS, etc. Your Koni's can be serviced by a number of authorized service centers around the country. You want cheap? Start with a set of KYB AGX's - these are the best bang-for-the-buck shocks for the FC... -Ted |
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You guys quit making me want another FC....:suspect:
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^Go with this, and a few other suspension bits you'll be super happy. I use my FC the same as you, and my setup started with the KYB AGX's. At the same time I put those in, I installed a set of Racing Beat springs, and later on replaced most of the stock bushings with the Energy Suspension polyurethane replacements (i.e, stabilizer bar bushings, front/rear control arms, etc.). Also added the Racing Beat "DTSS eliminator" bushings, because it felt like the stock DTSS bushings were worn out, and made the rear end handle unpredictably at the limits. I'm still on stock wheels & tire sizes, and am very happy with this setup. |
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Would you mind posting some pictures of what your car looks like with your set up? |
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http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...1&d=1422450594 |
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The FC doesn't like going that low without running into major camber problems, especially in the rear. An (upright) rear camber adjust rod will only take out so much (negative) camber in the rear. Even with the adjustable links on the front of the rear subframe, you end up smacking the whole thing on compression. Pete_89T2's pic looks like it has a smidgen too much camber in the rear, or it's a weird illusion of the pic due to the compression of the suspension due to the turn... You'd get away with about 2 - 3 "fingers" of gap in the rear before there is really too much (negative) camber. Remember, rear camber hurts your straight-line acceleration due to inefficient contact patch of the rear tires (upon acceleration). It also causes uneven tire wear back there. Fronts are no problem due to almost any off-the-shelf front camber plates can dial it all out. It's still a bit problem in the rear on really drastic drops... -Ted |
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Thats why mine was so low short stroke coilers and I had AWR eerything in the arse lateral links spherical bearings etc. |
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Haha the dreaded worn out spension lift when replaced....:smilielol5: |
If you stick with the stock rear subframe-to-body bushings you can actually run three "camber-correcting" devices at the same time: the adjustable "vertical link", the individual camber adjusters (think AWR), and Whiteline (I think) has some offset upper polyurethance bushings for the rear hubs.
My rear isn't too (coils are at the maximum height) low but like Ted said the negative camber can quickly get out of hand. I have delrin subframe-to-body bushings so I can't use an adjustable vertical link to correct camber. I have the AWR individual adjusters and I'm seriously considering the Whiteline bushings. FWIW, I think Whiteline also has offset bushings for the rear of the front control arms to increase caster. |
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but i like the coilers.....:rofl:
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Stock on left, AWR on right: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1...417001024a.jpg Installed on the car: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9...0417001037.jpg With the Stance coilovers at the highest setting (any taller and the strut body would pop out) I have the AWR pieces max'd out (at their shortest setting) and I'm a little under (over?) one degree of negative camber in the rear. Like Ted said this causes the upper part of the bolt to hit the body under compression. Because of that I've cut off ~1/4" of the bolt for a little more clearance. Quote:
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Do you have a picture of your car?
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https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-B...25282%2529.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_...0/CIMG0033.JPG |
Man.. so i guess people that have their FCs pretty low had to modify the rear to get it to work correctly? which bolt exactly did you have to cut?
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Try Ground Control .com there suspension parts are top of the line for the $ . they are in northern california .
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One thing I never got to try was to see if I could use the second, upper hole on the bottom piece. I'm pretty sure it's there so AWR could machine one design for both sides but if the upper hole could be used you'd automatically gain another .5-1 in. of adjustment to reduce negative camber. I'm pretty sure you'd have to slightly modify the control arm though. I may try this when my current car is at the body shop and I have easy access to the subframe again. |
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The rear suspension has to be extensively modified. Nothing off-the-shelf will fix the extreme negative camber in the back when you tuck the wheels into the fenders. I've had coilovers dropped all the way to the point I was dragging my gas tank on the ground...we're talking -5 or more degrees of camber. My rear camber adjust rod was collapsed all the way down. Even if I had the front adjust links, it might dial out another 1 degree. After that, the rear subframe just clangs onto itself and makes a horrible racket. Fronts can go lower, but you usually bottom out most of the drop-in struts / shocks made for the FC. Basically, you'd need a custom short-stroke set-up for front and front camber plates to adjust... Read: big bucks and lots of custom work -Ted |
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It seems as long as I'm not trying to drag frame... which I'm not... I should be satisfied with the ride height. This car has been a been stuck in my head since i found it years ago. I love the stance of it. http://www.stancenation.com/2010/10/...school-flavor/ |
I have the Tein Flex coilovers on my FD as well & I have been very happy with them as well. I do some auto X here and there as well as spirited weekend driving.
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FEED front lip, or that blasted copy from that guy was who ripping people off I believe those are the old Border side skirts. R.E. Amemiya rear, side bumper caps? Not a fan of the hippari tire stretch. Fenders have been pulled. The rear camber is significant - over -2 degrees, which will eat the tires. Fronts got more negative camber than rear, but that's easily fixed with front camber plates. -Ted |
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Also don't like stretch. I really do want the mazdaspeed style lip. Corksport used to sell it but they don't anymore... in fact.. they don't sell much for FCs at all now. |
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