ignition switch power ? stumped
 

im having some problems with my fc ive replaced the battery , ignition switch ,main relay , and almost all my fusses. my idiot lights will not come on or will the car click or crank ,all i have is hazards and head lights and this door beeper, i am getting 12.46v to the ignition switch but when i turn the key to start it goes away. i know it sounds like a bad ignition switch but i have tried 3 of them now and one was from a running car. what should i check next

Is the battery hooked up correctly. I only say this because I have installed the battery backwards before.

yes battery is new and correct and i have new termenels that i took the paint off also and i jumped the starter and it crank the motor over

Clutch switch? Neutral safety switch?

Clutch switch is bypassed

did you replace the fuses to rule them out or because they where blown?

I'd check your grounds and general power connections. I had this happen a couple times. Once when my battery terminals weren't connecting well and once when my starter wire (where it hooks into the starter) wasn't connecting well.

Replaced fussed to rule them out took starter off and cleaned connections to solinoid also clean driver strut tower ground I am getting power to my ignition switch but once I turn key to start the volts drop to zero

I would meter right after the switch. or take it off and measure the resistance thru the switch. Just to rule it out.

Thanks for the replys and help, I will check continuity tonight hopefully I can just clean the ignition contacts and will be back on the road soon since I have only drove the car twice since I bought it

ok so a new ignition switch and still no click no start no idiot lights or turn signals wtf.

OK
1. We can safely rule out the ignition switch.
2. Check all of you connections, and wires as well. I.E. Start with a good through look at the cables going from the battery. Positive isn't arcing or grounding out, and is in good solid working order, next do the same for the neg.
3. Double check all fuses and relays make sure they are in good working order
4. Look at your ignition switch make sure you did not cross any wires and it is hooked up correctly.
5. I should have put this first test the battery make sure it is good.
Start here and keep us posted.

battery is charged all fusses and main relay are new, ignition switch plugs are correct, battery cabel and grounds cleaned no arcing clutch switch bypassed

How are the connectors on the battery I had this issue with my 95 Bronco ans 78 Bronco and also the 84 RX7, Try wiggling them a little bit to see if you can get a better connection.
This I am assuming by the basis of when you get in the car all lights work normally, you go and turn the key and nothing if this is the wrong assumption let me know.

connections to battery are good. i have 12v going to the white/red wire on ignition switch when it is turned to off but once i turn to acc it goes down to .50v

Sounds like a short with that wire, I would follow it and see where it leads, or your interlock switch failed (black and red wire), or antitheft system failed or engaged it self (black and green wire). I am looking at an 86 RX7 diagram as well if it is a different year please post and I will get you the correct wire colors.

the car is an 86 i have bypassed the interlock switch and i have no anti theft system it is bypassed also

Did you check the circuit breaker relay?

theyy were fine didnt need reset

Whats your volts when the switch is in the run position?

0 switch only has volts on the off position

where are you taking the reading at?

im am testin volts on the w/r wire on the back of the ignition switch its got 12v in the off position but is says .50v on acc and 0 on start

just for giggles meter at the battery and see what happens. If the volts drop way off you may have a short.

I still assert that you have a bad connection at either the battery or a ground. Check your voltage there when you try to start and at the main relay in the engine bay. I believe it's labeled XM-1 in the wiring diagram.

I thought I have metered my car at the switch before and have similar results but the car started. post a pic of where you are metering if you can.

The only thing it can be at this point is crossed wire, failed relay(s), or a bad connection(s), or short(s).

ok so ive been tracing wires checking connections and grounds all are clean, i opend up the ignition switch that was told was working condition and it was rusted to hell so i orderd a brand new switch from mazda, how is it possible that all 4 ignition switches are bad and showing the same volts in the acc position and run position .

perhaps a design fault?

you could jump wires and see if that works

wow i feel dumb fixed my problem the black single wire from main fuse was jacked up and had a bad connection but was still drwaing volts to ignition switch. weird so i pulled apart cleaned and she started something so easy kept me down for a few weeks

Stupid simple shit gets all of us, dont worry about it.