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infernosg's S5 N/A Build
Several people already know about this but since I've starting making progress I guess it's time for a thread.
I have a '89 GXL that I've been using to get into road racing. I've owned it since June '09 and since then the only major modifications I've done have been to the suspension and drivetrain. Below are the two most recent pictures of the car I have (circa April '11): https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-R...-56-29_434.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7...-57-39_725.jpg This year was supposed to be my big HPDE year. Literally the weekend after those pictures were taken I overheated the car on the seventh session of the weekend. After that the car continuously pushed coolant into the overflow bottle so after 10 minutes of driving the low coolant buzzer would go off. It also got increasingly difficult to start over the next two weeks. The last few times it sounded like it was only firing up on one rotor although after applying some throttle it would sound normal. After that I decided to pull the engine: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9...-38-21_907.jpg The garage has been a mess from other projects around the house so I've only been able to expose the rear rotor as I don't have a large enough clean place to lay everything out. No obvious signs of a coolant seal failure yet: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-v...-55-07_999.jpg Since I've pulled the engine I decided I might as well initiate all my long-term plans; no point in rebuilding the 6-port engine just to replace it in a few years. So since then I've removed A/C and P/S: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-a...-14-45_416.jpg Gutted the emissions harness. That on the left is what remains and everything on the right has been removed: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-X...-14-21_334.jpg I will be running a Haltech Sprint RE so I am removing everything from the car not needed to legally drive it on the street. In addition to the EM harness I've also gutted the rear harness as I no longer have a need for AAS, the rear wiper, window cleaner, etc. Ultimately I want to do the same with what remains of the front and engine harnesses but I'm hesitating on removing the dash. The last time I messed with it plastic was breaking left and right. Shown below are all the wires and controllers I've removed so far: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-b...-09-04_686.jpg Last week I received a set of S4 TII housings: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-m...-09-36_804.jpg I've been thoroughly documenting my work so I have MANY more pictures but no one cares to see pictures of step-by-step wiring removal... If you haven't guessed by now I'm doing a 4-port N/A build. The block will be made of S4 TII intermediate housings, S5 N/A rotors, S5 N/A rotor housings with TII exhaust sleeves and RX-8 stationary gears, bearings and eccentric shaft. Intake will be a custom manifold with DCOE- or IDA-style individual throttle bodies. Fuel will be provided by two ID1000 injectors and four IGN-1A (Mecury Marine) coils will provide the spark. Exhaust will be comprised of a Defined Autoworks 4-port header and custom piping exiting at the rear driver's side. Everything will be controlled by a Haltech Sprint RE with a custom harness from LMS. Other items such as a rollbar and RT1000 racing seats will also be added along the way. I'd also love to replace the stock hood with a ligher fiberglass one and the rear hatch for a wiperless one. Feel free to comment/question and if you think you having anything that might be useful to me, suggestions or parts, let me know! |
Nice job on the wiring work. Most people don't take the time to do that. I give props to everyone who does!
I've been considering a 4 port N/A setup to stick in an FB. But I'd go with a carb setup. Keep us updated man! |
Glad to see another FC being built for real racing! Looks good so far...
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Slow.
Real Slow. |
cool! another NA 4-port setup. i'm very interested in seeing where this goes.
just curious, from where did you source your ignition coils? |
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I just realized I never mentioned my power goals; I'd be happy with ~200 whp at 7500-8000 RPM. |
A minor update:
The old engine is completely apart. Now time to clean everything, swap over the TII exhaust sleeves (how?!) and send everything out to be cleaned up and ported. ID1000's came in yesterday. They're oh so FABULOUS, LOL! https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-d...-30-58_273.jpg |
Small update. Rotors and irons are out for cleaning. Housings are getting resurfaced. In the meantime I've been playing with more wiring. I've stripped out the remains of the stock ECU, cruise control and power steering in the cabin and started to move into the engine bay
Cabin: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-F...-58-53_673.jpg Engine bay: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-g...-55-14_382.jpg Also gutted A/C and heater core: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-o...-09-41_937.jpg https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-a...-10-49_434.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-N...-18-58_445.jpg https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-K...-34-23_336.jpg Now I need to find some plugs for the leftover holes in the firewall... |
Even smaller Update.
Nothing much done lately. 50+ hour work weeks leave me not wanting to do anything during the week and with the nice weather I've been spending too much time at the range on the weekends... The S5 N/A rotor housings and the S4 TII intermediate plates have all be cleaned up and resurfaced. Many thanks to Jonathan at Goopy Performance and Chip at Chips Motorsports for the service. I don't have pictures of the rotor housings at this time but see the intermediate plates below (courtesy of Chips Motorsports): http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/5781/dsc0212ia.jpg You can see more photographs in his (To_Slow) thread. All sealing surfaces have been lapped and re-nitrided and all unneccesary cooling ports have been plugged. These look SO MUCH better than they did when I sent them out. If I can get them back in my hands before the weekend I may try to take a trip to Columbus to talk about some porting and fabrication work with Defined Autoworks. |
Still slowly working on this.
I had everything back for a while so I decided to take some pictures of the shiny stuff. Lapped/cleaned intermediate plates (thanks Chips Motorsports!): https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6...-33-15_476.jpg Resurfaced/cleaned rotor housings (thanks Goopy Performance!): https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-e...-33-51_776.jpg Clean rotors: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-e...-36-40_322.jpg For giggles I put the plates and housings together. I actually kind of like the grey/silver theme. It will definitely be easier to spot leaks versus those on black/silver or black/grey parts. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g...0-35-38_41.jpg Then I went back to work on the wiring. Engine harness this time: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U...-19-07_876.jpg Engine bay as it sits now. Every stock engine control connection is gone. The only things that remain are the charging system, lights and transmission switches. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-q...-35-21_872.jpg Basically done stripping the wiring harnesses so now I need to plan where all the new stuff is going. Ideally, all the new wiring for the new gauges and control system will be loomed with what remains of the stock harnesses but I don't think that will be completely possible. The rotor housings and plates are off getting ported now as well with Defined Autoworks. Ilve also been talking with them about getting an intake manifold, header and throttle bodies fab'd up. |
A few quick updates. Been working slowly as "real" work has been kicking my ass.
Used old engine parts to make a dummy engine for figuring out where stuff needs to go: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-a...-27-48_656.jpg I've been going through a lot of the stock connectors and replacing them with Weatherpack connectors too. Test fit new radiator: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-K...-27-24_203.jpg Going to need to make some kind of shroud around it to force air through it. Stock mechanical fan is being replaced by a 16" puller. Supposedly pulls 3000 CFM at 10 amps continuous. Not sure if I'll shroud this or not as the car really won't see a lot of driving in traffic. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V...-17-56_935.jpg Note Weatherpack connector again. Made ECU/relay mounting thing out of .025" aluminum. Everything fits in the stock location and there's a thicker aluminum kick plate that covers everything up. Mounted new fuse panel behind the passenger's kick panel as well: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W...-27-07_386.jpg Temporarily installed dual wideband gauge (displays info from two sensors at once) so I can run all the wires: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--...-41-55_219.jpg Other gauges: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6...-10-27_984.jpg Gauges are Marshall Instruments SCX Pro in black/black. Pretty good for the price (~$100): 270 degree stepper motor, warning output, peak recall. Super company to deal with too. Not sure where to mount the recall button just yet. Irons/housings are still with Defined Autoworks. They ran into a problem with the front iron and it had to be replaced but it looks like everything will be taken care of. Need to find someone with a TIG locally to weld shut the heater port on the radiator. |
Good job repainting the DIN panel ;)
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I managed to get some work done when I wasn't doing housework for the wife. Made a harness for gauges and spliced into existing wiring. Uses the same switched 12V, ground and illumination source as the stock gauges. I was a little off on some of my wire measurements but I suppose it's better to be long than short. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-J...-07-32_154.jpg To access/set the peak recall and warning features of the gauges they each come with a button. I wasn't sure I'd use them at first or even where I'd put them if I did use them but I decided to mount them where the AAS switch used to be. Used the same .025" aluminum to make a blank cover where the foglight switch used to be as well. I moved the security light to the passenger's side in case I decide to use the blank for something in future. I'm in the process of painting them black (with more success than the gauge panel). https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r...-07-52_583.jpg Wired the dual wideband gauge in the same manner as the other gauges The electrical tape covers the spade connectors (!) to prevent a short. I used spade connectors because the gauge itself didn't come with any terminals and I couldn't find any 5-pin connectors that were small enough to fit in the area around the steering column. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-f...-06-07_671.jpg Decided to mount dual wideband controller in the glovebox. It needs this period "free air adjustment" so it needed to be located somewhere accessible and I'd rather not put it in the engine bay. I need to get a rubber grommet for that hole. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-N...-10-54_235.jpg I got a lot of wiring in general done over the weekend. Currently stuck while I wait for more wire, terminals, etc. to be delivered. The cabin is about 80% wired at this point. It's currently messy as hell but it everything will be cleaned up before the dash goes back in and once I've confirmed all circuits are still working. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-m...-09-09_554.jpg Ran wires out into the engine bay. These likely won't be terminated for some time as I need an intake manifold, throttle body and fuel rail before I can do anything with the TPS, IAT and injector sensors. I suppose I can wire the CAS though. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-a...0-12-29_37.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F...-12-43_196.jpg Last, but not least, the new coils. Currently have 3/4 needed. Now I need to figure out how to mount these things. They're a lot bigger than I thought! https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7...-32-50_516.jpg |
I think I've managed to get the interior wiring done. The only thing missing now is power. I want to make absolutely certain everything works before putting the interior back together. Onto the pictures...
Shot of the driver's side and gauges. Getting the fuse box (not pictured) and all the wires behind the driver's kick panel back together was a PITA! https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h...-28-13_303.jpg And the passenger's side. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-H...-29-33_475.jpg A closer shot of the ECU and relay mounting plate. The three female spade connectors are for the dual wideband controller, which I mounted in the glovebox so I can route those until the dash is back in. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t...7-32-55_53.jpg Lastly, my finished "switch" panel. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R...-14-47_282.jpg Of course as I'm "done" running wires for the interior I'm now wondering if I should have deleted the stereo and speakers and all the associated wires. I haven't really figured out how to mount the radio and I'm thinking it's probably not going to get a lot of use. I'm really not wanting to go in there and remove everything again... |
Too long since updating this - some good progress.
Got the wiring for the battery relocation done. The 8 AWG wire goes along the passenger's door sill up into the kick panel to the fuse panel, which powers the ECU, injectors, ignitors, fuel pump and gauges. Ignore the ridiculously thick heat shrinkg; it's been replaced. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-X...-32-36_358.jpg In the engine bay the 2 AWG wire runs to another breaker at the base of the strut tower. A new 4 AWG wire is used to power the fuse box. Ultimately there will be another red 4 AWG wire running to the starter from the breaker and a black 4 AWG wire running from the fuse box to the alternator. The relay next to the fuse box is for the electric fan. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r...-23-27_405.jpg A while back Logan finished up the porting for me so I made a drive up to Columbus and picked them up. Intermediate iron: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-o...-29-37_206.jpg Rear iron: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-m...-29-59_945.jpg Exhaust port: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-V...-30-28_908.jpg Exhaust port again: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-d...-30-42_772.jpg Porting work on outside: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o...-32-12_162.jpg I got bored waiting for parts so I decided to do something about a mistake a made when taking the dash out. We all know this sight... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t...-22-53_940.jpg Since I have no reason for these defrost vents (and I don't want to spend $20/each on new ones) I decided to make some block-off plates with my ever-useful sheet of .025" aluminum. Trace vents and cut... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B...-23-20_280.jpg Test fit: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-W...-23-37_906.jpg I've since painted and completed the deletes and I went ahead and did the same thing with the window defrost vents. Right now 90% of the interior is put back together but I'm still waiting for parts. Plugged in the battery and all systems check out (annoying buzzer is annoying), which was such a relief. Engine-wise EFI Hardware TB has been ordered and Defined Autoworks is starting the intake manifold. Progress... |
Small update. I finished the block off plates pictured above (painted black). I also decided to do the same thing with the vents along the windshield. I don't have heat or AC so there really isn't any defrost function anymore and the vents aren't needed. Ordered, received and installed Kirk Racing "race" roll bar. Removed the stock restraint system and reinstalled ~90% of the interior (still waiting on a few items). Work has been keeping me out of the car so progress has been slow. I did receive this though...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-C...8-37-42_65.jpg The most expensive single item I'v purchased so far (aside from the car itself): 55 mm IDA-style throttle bodies from EFI Hardware (purchased through Tweakit). Logan and I felt these were the best option out there. |
I love those parts. I was going this route with a build a few years ago and ordered a few things from Tweakit from EFI Hardware - the quality really is great and it's sad we have to go to AU to get these kind of parts!!
Looking forward to a fire up video! |
I want more, hurry up man!
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I've been focusing on the interior while I save up some money. I've completely removed the stock restraint system, and I've got a Kirk Racing roll bar out getting powdercoated that will likely go in tomorrow. Since I no longer have a rear wiper and the OEM service panels are NLA I went and made my own out of .025" aluminum again. I may have stripped all the luxury out of this car but that doesn't mean it has to look like crap. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-s...-31-57_437.jpg A shot of the interior in its current state: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-n...-37-58_364.jpg After the roll bar it's just seats and harnesses and the interior is done. |
I haven't really worked on the car since before the holidays but I'm back into it shortly.
Picked up a OMP WRC seat w/ brackets and a Sparco 345 Steering wheel w/ hub adaptor yesterday. I test fitted the seat in the car and it still seems too high to me. My head is about 3/4" from the headliner so I fear there won't be enough space with a helmet. I plan on cutting out the stock seat mounting locations and mounting the seat directly to the floor. This should get me about 1-1/4" more headroom. Question is, will I screw something up by cutting these out? |
Finally some pictures and one to elaborate more on my current issue:
Aeromotive FPR: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t...-42-08_358.jpg Sparco 345 wheel and Sparco hub (temporarily installed in this picture): https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-e...-40-56_353.jpg OMP WRC seat - the narrowest seat with high thigh bolsters I could find for <$1000: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-U...-39-51_868.jpg Test fitting the seat in the car. It fits well but with my helmet on I'm still touching the headliner (damn sunroof cars) so I'm going to have to work on the floorpan. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0...-44-10_733.jpg So here's the area in question: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8...-02-24_424.jpg Is the front mounting point a structural part of the car? I've read people claim both sides and, honestly, I'm not convinced it is. Sure it's boxed in but the metal is like 20 ga at most (I can bend it with my fingers). I can go in cutting things but I want to do this "the right way." Firs thoughts are to cut out the rear mounts (the rear culprits) and run some flat stock to connect them and notch out and re-box the front mount with some more flat stock. This should create two strong, flat points to mount the seat. Unfortunately: 1) I don't have a welder, 2) I don't know how to weld, and 3) I don't have a means to get the car to someone with a welder who knows how to weld. |
Nice seat....
You're fine with cutting those "boxed" rails out. We do it regularly on miatas when mounting the seat to the floor is necessary... generally, we'll drill the spot welds out, pull the entire rail out of it (as you noticed, its pretty flimsy stuff - especially when you start cutting it) and then weld the holes shut. Once the new seat configuration is mounted and in the way we want, we'll add thicker square tubing brace farther forward or wherever it will clear the front upright of the seat... The problem of not having a welder or access to one is going to be a setback though. I know you've got to have some good shops in your area of OH.. OH is the land of welders, lol... |
Well I ultimately broke down and purchased a welder. It's a cheap little 110V unit but it's enough for whatever I need right now. After a couple weeks of practiced I figured I was ready and I started work on the new seat mount.
Here is the new seat mount tacked in place. The cross bars are 1/8" flat stock and the end pieces are made from 16 ga sheet. The "vertical" bar was originally going to be part of the mount (hence the seam weld) but I have since decided it isn't needed and its only purpose was to serve as a jig. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-g...-28-31_578.jpg Once everything was fit into place I cut it out and made the anchor points. These are 2" sections of 1" x 1/4" flat stock welded to the back. I then drilled two holes in each and tapped them to M6 x 1.00. There are two holes because for whatever reason the holes in the bottoms of the seat brackets are at different widths depending on how you mount them. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-c...-12-59_562.jpg I still have a little ways to go on the welding... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b...-14-18_766.jpg Finally, test fit on the seat. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-x...-09-10_889.jpg The new mount is now fully welded into the car and I've removed the temporary brace but it got dark and the pictures started to suck. Testing fitting the seat in the car shows a total height reduction of about 1". I know it seems like nothing but at least my head is no longer touching the headliner with a helmet on. I figure I'll ream out the holes in the brackets a little to gain another 3/8" and I should be good. All that's left is to measure/cut/weld some 16 ga. sheet to box everything in. |
1" can mean everything...
Looks good though... |
It's been a long couple of weeks and completing the seat mount took much longer than I had anticipated.
Getting ready to box everything in... https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6...-29-28_273.jpg ...and done. No in-process shots because the welds are exceedingly ugly. Apparently it's quite hard to weld 1/8" flat stock to the floor. I'm still practicing! https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u...-17-01_114.jpg A shot that shows how everything fits with the seat in and the carpet down: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-q...-57-03_118.jpg The seat is literally as low as it can go. I reamed out the lowest rear hole in the brackets and now the seat is basically resting on the bottom plate of the brackets (< 1/16" clearance). Without a helmet there's about 2 to 2-1/2" clearance between my head and the headliner. I took these next two shots to show where I want to anchor the lap belts. Door side: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-L...-18-34_731.jpg Transmission side: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-V...-19-21_477.jpg I want to use the stock lap belt anchor points as there are reinforced from the factory. My concern is that the mounting points are too wide. The factory anchor points are about 1" from the seat on the transmission side and 3" from the seat on the door side. With me in the seat and a mock lap belt (old guitar strap) the angle is about right (> 45 degrees from horizontal). I can always make new anchor points, which are more inward and use backing plates but I'd like to avoid putting more holes in the floor! Thoughts? Also if anyone has an old/cheap/expired 5 or 6-point harness lying around they don't need I'd gladly take it off your hands. |
Progress has been slow. With Spring comes lots of stuff to do around the house...
I made a battery tray for the ETX18L I picked up a while back. It bolts to the floor in the passenger's side storarge bin. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3...-56-42_457.jpg I decided to replace the entire stock fuel system (not just the FPR and fuel pump). Originally I was just going to add a new bulkhead connecter (thanks Force13B) for the new fuel pumo but I quickly discovered the fuel lid for the FC was already crammed tight. I decided to hack off the stock feed and return lines and add my own AN fittings so I fit the connector. With a little modification to the fuel pump support the new fittings go right in. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-R...-28-01_862.jpg https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6...-28-32_219.jpg https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-y...-29-40_898.jpg No one sells a female 6 AN to 5/16" barb fitting so that's why there is a female-to-female adatpor in there. 5/16" is required because that is the outlet diameter of the fuel pump (Aeromotive Stealth 340). The new bulkhead connector should fit on the other side of the feed line just behind the existing connector. The fuel pump, submersible fuel line and fuel-safe clamps are ordered and that will complete the fuel pump assembly and then I get to make the lines. Fuel question: I'm hoping for about 225 whp when all is said and done. Right now I have two ID1000 injectors mounted downstream of the TB to accomplish that goal. I know I can bump up fuel pressure but is this still feasible or am I going to need more fuel flow? The other option I've devised is to run four ID725's staged in a primary/secondary setup: two in the stock primary location (need aftermarket fuel rail) and the other two just downstream of the TB (secondary). My concern would be not enough fuel getting into the secondaries as the TB feeds all four runners. |
Been waiting on parts/supplies so I haven't gotten much done lately.
The new fuel pump (Aeromotive Stealth 340): https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-u...-10-03_450.jpg Does anyone know if the supplied rubber/foam sleeve is fuel safe? The Aeromotive pump isn't really drop-in due to its smaller size. I plan on using stainless steel tie downs to hold it to the stock fuel pump support. If I can use the foam/rubber sleeve that should keep the noise down. It's also annoying Aeromotive "recommends" 10 ga wire for the fuel pump, yet the pigtail harness they sent me has 16 ga wire. Since the pump current draw should always be <20 amps I'm actually going with 12 ga wire. The new bulkhead connector is in. It's a tight fit! https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-h...-13-10_720.jpg Not pictures is the new fuel pump wiring. 12 ga from the new relay in the passenger's foot well all the way back to the fuel pump. It follows the stock antenna cable's path to the driver's rear strut tower. I need to find a 1.25" diameter grommet with a .25" hole for the fuel tank service cover since I destroyed the stock one and I can't find a part number anywhere. If anyone knows this I would be grateful! The rest of my fuel system re-work has also arrived. Pictures later: -2 feet of Gates 5/16" submersible fuel line -Fuel line clamps (no worm clamps!) -40 feet of -6 AN braided stainless steel line -Aeromotive fuel filter -Too many hose ends and misc fittings to count The wife has a friend in town this weekend so that means I should have plenty of "alone time" with the RX-7. |
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however, i love the way yours is coming together. i really dig your IDA throttle. i came pretty close to buying one, too, but i eventually went with TWM. i can't wait to see what Logan comes up with for your intake manifold. just keep up the good work, brother! i'm sure i'm not the only one following. :) |
Updates!
Got the fuel pump assembly completed. I'm still not sure about the foam/rubber sleeve but I'll pull it in a few weeks to see how it's holding up - it's ~1/4 submersed in gasoline. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-X...-43-25_270.jpg Cut out the stock fuel lines. There's really not a whole lot there. I'm going to try to reuse the stock brackets with a little modification. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-T...-49-49_554.jpg New parts to go in: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_...1-53-41_39.jpg I ended up making a bracket to mount the FPR. Bare steel for now, but I will be painting it black. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-y...-45-24_468.jpg The new fuel filter actually fit in the stock location. It's a little smaller in diameter than the stock filter but I added some foam insulating tape to the stock bracket and everything is nice and snug. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-u...5-46-00_83.jpg You can see the lines in the picture above. I need to get some more fittings as I was too optimistic with all the straight hose ends. I actually need like 3 90 degree ends and one 30 degree and that should be enough to finish up. Plans changed a little because THIS came in and I had a chance to mock everything up! https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-J...-36-06_756.jpg https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-i...-36-53_982.jpg My custom aluminum intake manifold arrived (thanks Logan!). The port sizes are matched to my throttle bodies and engine. Some quick mock-up pictures: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-n...-45-21_787.jpg https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-d...0-45-45_88.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-B...-46-01_560.jpg I grabbed the alternator and sure enough there's some interference with the TPS sensor and the airhorns. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j...-49-09_683.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l...20-49-42_4.jpg A minor setback. The alternator is getting relocated to the driver's side of the engine where the P/S and A/C used to be with an XTreme Rotaries bracket. Hopefully that won't interfere with the steering column since it's designed with Aussy cars in mind. There's also going to be a tight fit between the TPS sensor and water temp sensor leads. One last mock up shot with the injectors for shits. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9...0-36-54_65.jpg Oddly enough the manifold doesn't fit on my old 6-port engine that I'm using as a dummy while I lay out everything on-car. I'm not sure if the bolt pattern is slightly different or if some of the studs are bent. I'll mess with the studs so it'll fit and I can continue. Immediate to-do list (in no particular order): -Install intake onto dummy enigne and wire injectors and TPS. -Finish fuel lines. -Build airbox and install/wire IAT sensor. -Relocate/wire alternator. -De-power steering rack. -Wire starter |
stupid question but why 4 port as oppose to 6 port?
btw i really love the build its making me wish i had done the N/A set-up instead of turbo now. |
Looking good!
Sometimes I kick my self for not going this route, rather then a full turbo conversion :( |
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I was looking into alternator relocation kits to solve my interference issues last weel. I ended up going with the Xtreme Rotaries alternator relocation kit. I received this exactly one week after I placed the order. Not bad for shipping from Australia to Ohio. Here it is all unpackaged:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-U...-30-39_140.jpg I'm pleased with the quality of the kit. 100% milled and polished aluminum and all bolt holes are counterbored/countersunk. I went with this kit due to the OEM-style tensioning system. All the other kits I saw used heim joints. In hindsight I could have made somehting like this myself but it wouldn't have been aluminum and it wouldn't be as nice. Installation was straightforward and I think I had more difficulty removing the studs from the front cover and front iron than setting up the alternator. Installed in the car: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-D...-10-32_735.jpg It looks tight between the engine and the frame rail but even at both extremes of the tensioning range there is clearance. The only issue I ran into was with the tension arm. With the alternator installed the tension arm is about .25" away from the alternator mounting point. The stock tension arm has a couple bends in it where the arm included with the kit does not. This was easily fixed with a few washers. The only concern I have is how close the alternator is to the wiring harness and if that is going to cause interference issues with the CAS wires. Here's a couple shots of the intake setup on the car. I've got all the fittings in place and I'm ready to finish the fuel lines. You can also see the new fuel pressure gauge in this picture. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--...-11-06_339.jpg I think I mentioned the tight clearance between the TPS sensor and the water temperature sensor. This last picture shows just how close that is. I think I can still squeeze the TPS pigtail in there but if I absolutely have to I can relocate the water temperature sensor to somewhere else on the water pump housing. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-u...-11-28_122.jpg Where are some other locations for a good water temperature sensor signal? This is for the Haltech so I want it to be a representative of the water temperature in the engine as possible. |
I've been working on an air filter setup. I've come up with two options: simple and cheap and elegant and expensive. Simple/cheap is what I have mocked up in the picture below. I found a K&N filter that would fit over the lip on the end of the velocity stack and clamp down. I don't know how well the "ram tube" aspect still works with this kind of setup though. The other downside is the filter is too long and will interfere with the oil filler neck. K&N doesn't sell a shorter version of this filter so I would have to cut it down and re-seal it myself or move the oil filler neck. The idea would be to have two filters like this with one tapped for the IAT sensor. Total cost = $30 x 2.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0...-30-22_284.jpg The other option is more elegant but more expensive. I've been in contact with EFI Hardware in Australia, who makes my throttle body, and they have a IDA-style filter setup. I copied a few shots from their website below (I would have a taller filter). In this configuration the "ram tubes" should function as normal and I now have a common intake source to mount the IAT sensor. The downside is I'd have to order the intake kit (filter, base, and top), shorter velocity stacks, a TB-to-filter base adaptor, and potentially some spacers to get the filter base away from the fuel rail. Total cost quoted to me by EFI is $641! ($100 of that is shipping). http://www.efihardware.com/_linkedim...t-kit_2203.jpg http://www.efihardware.com/_linkedim...t-kit_2207.jpg Comments/thoughts? |
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You can position the TPS in any manner. After, it can be easily calibrated.
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Good ideas. I'll have to take a closer look at the TB and TPS when I get the chance and perhaps take some pictures to better illustrate my comments above. |
That's a bummer. Why not use a standard rotary (not meaning engine) TPS?
http://www.mazdatrix.com/pictures/Ha...tion_senso.jpg |
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