Maximum boost thread (93 oct > pump petrol/gasoline only!)
 

So poofters, this thread is a log of what boost you have run on pump gas :auto:

Post it up, some proof would be nice to weed out the homosexuals from the real men :9898: NO BDC styled youtube video's or rants allowed sorry! oh and your engine must be running and actually achieved something of note (acceleration times etc)

I'll start off. RRWEP110 Water Injected.

~30psi on pump petrol and water injected

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...1&d=1299974370

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...1&d=1299974648

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...1&d=1299974845

So I am the ONLY ONE NOT LIKE BDC on this forum? FFS people post up something in these tech threads or I wont waste my time sharing :banghead:

I would love to post something, but don't have a running car LOL

Does not stop BDC or HC from posting reams of shit lol.........

But all good, when you do get it going post up and share away :iagree:

Hopefully some Americans will get behind this web site rather than posting on the poofter forum and make this section worth reading. Think of it like a forum without HC or BDC :rant:

:302:

I'll post when I have new numbers... nothing really impressive about 1B on stock REW twins......

I love the logs of data, I have plans to be on the dyno in 4 weeks so we'll get some logs, and runs, and vids up then.

Until then though, I'll just keep on following the thread.

I post plenty in the tech sections (mostly Fabrication and a few others). But like everyone else, the car is under the knife.

To give this comparison test some context:
RICESP (stock std 13B-REW engine, full catalyst exhaust, T04 type turbo, plumb back waste gate, small standard inter cooler 1310kg)
*fully compliant genuine road car*

ND4SPD (Cosmo 13B, full bridge port, T51 type turbo charger, large front mounted inter cooler, gutted exhaust, open waste gate pipe 1250kg)
*quasi race car!*

I did some very interesting comparisons to ND4SPD (Mazda Capella I tuned with RRWEP110 WI) V's RICESP via the immense analysis power of the VBOX :)

I'll list up some comparison results: About the total FALLACY of " typical dyno sheets"! v's real world power and times taken for vehicles to actually do "work" with known levels of weight/mass!!!

This car makes on a dynohomodynamics ~390rwkw on 19psi boost (full bridge port & T51 turbo 1250kg as run at race track) where we got these recordings. You will see RICESP at 1310kg run weight is just as powerful (real rwkw! power as measured by me via VBOX!) and its just as fast in peak power band too (what really matters at the end of the day rather than poofter dyno sheet comparisons)

This report is of ND4SPD in its peak power band (6000rpm to 8200rpm) = 110kph to 150kph in 3rd gear on 19psi boost (VBOX measure = ~310rwkw owner has sheets of 380 to 390rwkw on homo dynamics guess machine)
ND4SPD = 110kmh to 150kmh = 2.07 seconds
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...1&d=1300414313

This report shows RICESP and the first one is a FC RX7 fitted with a bridge port 13B running 15psi boost and a GT35 turbo lol (you can see I am twice as fast as it lol 4.43 seconds V's 2.06 seconds!) This car apparently makes 270rwkw dynohomodynaimcs @ 16psi boost LOL! You can see these dyno figures are not worth pissing on in the REAL WORLD! and are vastly overstated from what the cars actually makes when you apply real physics to them!!!
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...1&d=1300414015

And the other result table is at full boost when I tuned it (ND4SPD) on road just before setting national dyno record http://www.riceracing.com.au/water-injection.htm < *read customer testimonial* (which to this day still stands!) for the only ever 13B rotary to lay down 3 back to back power runs of this level and still be able to drive home :) on pump petrol :)
Boost, EGT, RPM, AFR sensors fitted in this tuning session.
RICESP = 110kmh to 150kmh = 2.06 seconds
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...1&d=1300414770

My RX7 is pretty quick I think you will all agree :) and this is still not sharing the current state of high power tune :) *I'll save that for another day*

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...1&d=1300612497

So here is a report showing a mates drag car v RICESP
RICESP = 2.57 seconds (just in one gear, great show of power band)
Simon Ward = 2.64 & 2.69 seconds (high power at start of test, then less grunt shows up at higher speed, gear)
Drag car specs:
3.3lt Holden 202 (very old school set up!)
5 speed Lenco clutchless shift gearbox
1007kg car (1077kg as run in this test)
35psi boost (see logging)
Ran 6.75 @ 107mph 1/8th mile goat track in this VBOX file at night (won the event lol) *2 back to back runs*

RICESP: is the 2.48second 90-140 test std (3 gear acceleration test)
1310kg run weight Specs listed many times already!

Here is a pictures of the car. Bloke is a local legend, basically wins against all comers (I'm serious) has been running at that track for 30 years! Oh and his beast is water injected too :hurray:

I helped him jet the carburetors and set the ignition timing on it till it got as fast as it would run Via the VBOX logging, this was done during the event and these final two runs are back to back from the evening finals (night runs interesting with no head lights and poor track lighting lol!@!! (have no mph boards at local Goat track! so VBOX is invaluable! Tim cards work but run faster at track due to roll out ghetto timing lights common to ALL Drag tracks, VBOX shows slower times (depends on how deep you stage!) always as its recording exact start & not guessing like light beam bullshit!) ;) he was amazed with what "modern technology can do" BTW it has no wastegate so the boost is max it will run!!!

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...1&d=1300613329

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...1&d=1300613703

RX7 comparisons
 

This is another interesting comparison: From my collection of VBOX tests http://www.riceracing.com.au/vbox-ii...ing-tuning.htm
90kmh to 135kmh (best power gearing for the stock RX7) see rpm logging.

RICESP V Spirit R Type A (stock standard)

Car specs:
Spirit R Type A
1335kg as run
280PS factory rated engine (100% stock std no mods at all)
Car ran 0-100kmh in 5.55 seconds & 13.85 second @ 104.78mph RR V-BOX Recorded for 1/4 mile *no roll out*
Time = 5.06 seconds & 158 meters

RICESP:
~21psi Rice Racing Engineered Water Injected Monster :)
1310kg as run
Power is over double a factory RX7 (see actual VBOX RR rwkw measure) so roughly double the power, double the acceleration & half the time required to do it and distance as well :)
Time = 2.21 seconds & 69 meters

VBOX File report
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...1&d=1300705759

Get On It POOFTERS :-oc==3
 

:auto:

She has passed the 1.8kg/cm durability tests with flying colors :) & the performance is amazing. We have the new settings at 2.10kg/cm (over 2 bar gauge, 300kpa ABS, 30+psi in the old money)..... there is still plenty of margin left in the set up to run 2.5kg/cm in street trim but as before will run at the intermediate step to prove it rather than do a one off power pull BS type sheet posting as is the norm among most kiddies shops or internet experts ;)

The acceleration is gag factor to the max! it's not scary but I tell you it does make your arsehole pulsate in mild fear if you have not sampled this kind of thing recently.......... :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) !!!!!!!!!!!

im not at all familiar with tuning as i have never had the need or means tor try. but im getting the point here and its extremely impressive.

Bumpski!

2bar boost for a long time now.

Any other pretenders out there who have not blown up BDC or HC style on inferior meth injection yet LOL??????????????

Beuller ???????

Carbon Wings
 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXYAJWAV7YY

This is great reference for you.

86mph the 638bhp ZR-1 pulls 0.44G Mine 0.570G

110mph 0.31G Mine 0.411G

ZR-1 = 3350lb as tested
RICESP = 2910lb as tested

Power peak for both cars in two different gear (you can guess the power of my car) it's somewhere around/near/over? 600bhp as remember at higher speeds aero dynamic loads play more effect than weight

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-SW0H8smRc

100kmh to 200kmh

ZR-1 = about 7.2 seconds
RICESP = 6.2 seconds

220kpa or 31.9psi on pump gas with water only injection - 75mm turbo. Will save a log next time I have my lap top in the car.
No CDI ignition either.

:rofl: This should be entertaining
What are you running for ignition?

Posts #7 through #9 would be the kind of thing I'd hope people would use as some kind of back up to legitimize their claims of boost or power and matching PERFORMANCE :cheers2: but this is the internet and in rotary world (unlike on 6speed.com forum) cunts all over the webz/internetz seem to broke to even afford a few hundred dollar VBOX based GPS instrument that would dispel any doubters :biggthumpup:

Some pics of you (your name, where you are from) and your car (type, weight etc) and some kind of proof of it running for longer than one dyno pull or one track day..... would be nice to anyone wanting to post up in this thread :ugh2:

For any young players feel free to send my your VBOX files and I can verify your cars performance claims

p.s. my current boost setting is 35psi :tongue1: :boxing_smiley:

lol settle down dude, there's more than one way to skin a cat...

It seems boost went higher than I thought - 233kpa or 33.79psi
I do know that the engine will not missfire until AFR's get down to the high 9's at this boost level. The current Series 5 engine has done over 150 dyno pulls thankyou, starting with a 60mm turbo and upgrading to a 75mm.

I am running a Link ECU, microtech x4 igniter and ice inductive coilpacks. oh and NGK race plugs and magnecor wires. I have not checked water flow at this boost level but I'm guessing 800-900cc per min.

You have allot of fucked up values in that ECU stat screen, why is that?
Show me a log of the car pulling 3rd and 4th gear, what is it fitted too? how fast is it? What map sensor do you have fitted to the car? have you actually calibrated it to the internal BAP sensor?

I'd like some more details :biggthumpup:

Where are you from? what is your name? show us your set up too would be nice :Chevy_anim:

My M820 will log speed, that's all you want to see right? Time and speed. You'll have to do the conversion from mph to that silly thing you see :rofl:

As you can see in the Motec thread on the M170 (latest ECU fitted to a superbike) wheel speeds are totally wrong compared to even a ghetto GPS velocity trace (as per the Motec garmin ghetto facility logged on the ECU at the same time).

But at absolute MINIMUM I would like to see some kind of velocity trace, YES. If its based off wheel speeds then you are always going off a wrong trace then overlaid on top of that is the honesty of the calibration to make the speed reading right + the wheel slip factor added on top.

To measure velocity CORRECTLY to determine honest speed you really need a GPS signal, top shelf stuff is around 100Hz Ghetto like Motec is around 5Hz lol, either way its 1 million times better than a wheel speed trace ;)

Consider your self edumecated LOL :conehead:

p.s. To validate ANY claims of speed to distance I also want to see the hieght and slope of where you run, again any decent GPS instrument will allow this, most ECU hack boxes will not ;), run down hill = much much faster ;), most people cheat themselves LOL

In all seriousness, PSI welcome, let us know who you are and what your set up is.

It sounds like its NZ or Australian to me, as no one I know would run a Microwreck product lol especially combined with a Link ECU haha.

If its a drag car link us some specs, times weight etc :001_302:

p.s. I tuned a car with Microwreck ignitor with ICE boosters in 2004 with Water Injection and low AFR, it just always fouled plugs (racing ones). Given the Links ability to blow up engines when running CDI's if you use any of the limiting functions then this combo is probably not a bad thing anyway

Even in a near 700bhp car like mine with race tires on the back and true calibrated wheel speed sensors to the VBOX under acceleration you either have (under speed) on front wheels *due to them not being in full contact with the ground* even in 3rd gear! OR you have over rotation or wheel slip in the order of 4% or more @ 100mph. So you NEVER ever get a true velocity trace using wheel speed sensors.

This is why F1 cars run pitot tubes and also GPS speed traces to get true velocities.

I should post up a graph of time and velocity to REAL time and velocity off an ECU log v's a VBOX GPS log, in a short test like a 90-140kmh 3rd gear power band test you can have differences of up to 0.2 seconds (faster on ECU log v's a real log with a true speed trace that is accurate).

Velocity is NOT easy to measure, you need lab not LEB grade equipment to do so. Only company that does this properly is Race Logic and the top end gear VB3i is like 20k+ *fully kitted out* lol (I know I have it).

Max INJ - I can't explain and have never seen it logged that high
Max ECT - went that high due to air lock
Max IAT - pins broke off sensor and were intermittently touching engine
ECU temp - ECU is mounted on top of trans tunnel

I am using the internal 4 bar map sensor and it has been calibrated.

Vehicle is a 323 with a basically stock Series 5 engine and intake. It weighs 1049.5kg on the track scales and has done a 9.11 at 149.9mph at 215kpa boost. The car is street legal and runs a full exhaust and all the seats etc and is still on leaf springs.

So you are Green Brothers? or affiliated with them???

Did you not want us to know who you are? don't be shy.

Please list your set up so others can learn from you, that is mostly what this forum is about.

Maximum boost on pump petrol, real street car :)
 

I got more logs with the Link showing 231kpa Gauge pressure on a 100kpa day (331kpa absolute) (and zeroed to BAP sensor) showing 33.2psi on the Blitz SBC I-Color :)

When my internet gets of gay sex speed I'll post up some pics, and no I wont go shy cause cunts know who I am either lol.

Here is pics as promised c7nts

Parameters at start of test (before starting engine) 18deg C day
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...1&d=1334553373

Mid range mega boost, 33.2psi!
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...1&d=1334553828

1.742 seconds 90kmh to 140kmh! excellent charge temps, mega boost
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...1&d=1334553297

Boost it bro
 

Image Shack eats balls! hope this works now.

Conditions at start of test, 18 deg C Ambient
http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/7...satstartof.jpg

Mid range boost 33.2 psi Blitz boost SBC I-Color
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/8...220kpaecul.jpg

90kmh to 140kmh 3rd gear test std power band test, very quick.
http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/8...siruneculo.jpg

100kmh to 169kmh = 3.71 seconds short test
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/869...h371second.jpg

Don't be shy bro, you can thank me for your results LOL
 

PSI or JZN otherwise known as Green Brothers in New Zealand not shy to post his copy of my water injection ideas here > LOL > http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=974884

Shame he got all shy and can't be fucked updating the thread here since I know who he is :o10:

This is a common mistake for newbies thinking they can run water injection without a CDI ignition system, I read about how you dented your rotor, and make more power by reducing water, the problem you have is you are letting the motor dictate to you how to run due to the lack of ignition power and not you dictating to the motor how it will run safely.

The splitting of your water tank is another common newbie mistake, if you pay close attention to my WI thread (which I know you have!) you will see the detailed construction of my water tank, it is CNC folded and has not welded seems at all in its construction the end caps are folded over and lap welded. This is the only thing that lasts long term in the pressure ranges we run, also you need to use very thick plate, not light shit most cunts use.

I STRONGLY recommend you switch over to WM50, it is vastly superior to running just plain water, again you can experiment yourself on this but I will safe you allot of time and more broken engine parts ;)

The water jet you think you have copied from me is nothing like what I run ;) you will need to work out your quantities for yourself.

The mac valve will work with WM50 not a problem, I know I have been using it for a lot of years with my customers and myself in my own car for the last 2 years.

You are really wasting your time bouncing off ideas on rx7club, they are just a bunch of useless cunts over there with not one idea of much at all.

Feel free to come good on who you really are and feel free to share information here, I am willing to help anyone who is up front and not too scared to hide behind the internet ;)

Best Regards. :fawk:

This is my favorite thread! <3

Mine too :grouphug:

rice, in the near future i will try to post up some of my logs from my link in my t04z fd with wm50 (post turbo sorry). did you get the wire-in xtreme ecu or the plugin fd ecu? if the wire-in, did you use the standard vehicle speed input to the stock computer for logging purposes?

Brad.

ECU board fitted inside original Mazda ECU case in my car, just cause its a super rare SP factory RX7.

Don't be sorry, more people who run these cars and at this level the better, you are part of a very exclusive club :biggthumpup:

stock speed sensor, calibrated off my Race Logic GPS, but still these things are out due to wheel slip, still not a bad reference if you have non high quality speed trace via race logic gear.

So, in 20+ years one thing has remained constant............. FUCK ALL people know how to make a true road going 13B this fast ;) People come, people go, fortunes are squandered and promises are broken, but still there is only one constant and that is that FUCK ALL people can make these engines as fast and as reliable as I have proven since back before the advent of the internet and the useless cunts that post on them in forums lol.

You don't just see this in this useless space, you see it in everything from Pikes Peak, to your local sports racing series and the new fangeled world of "time attack" worlds latest trend of cock bag no bodies claiming to be the world leaders LOL.

Even Mazda Japan gave up on the turbocharged 13B in mid 1980's in the 717C cause it sent them broke trying to keep up with far smaller piston turbo's ....... they sold out! and went NA 3 rotor then 4 rotor.

The older I get the more I realize water injection is the only hope for turbo rotaries, and still people just do not get it LOL. Ahhhhhh all hail generation useless and the IT generation of cock gaggers LOL

I don’t mind if you know who I am. I’d actually forgotten about this thread.

To set the record straight, I did not copy you. I got the idea and basic design from a friend and rotary pioneer in NZ (RIP) who ran water injection in his 13B turbo powered 626 back in the early 80’s. His set up sucked through a sidedraft Weber and he used boost operated pre-carb (pre-turbo) water injection to allow more boost with the hi compression rotors of the day. His water injection idea came from WWII fighters as he was an avid aircraft enthusiast and pilot, even becoming friends with an ex Luftwaffe Me109 pilot on one of his trips abroad (he was sent to Germany and other places by the NZ Govt to look at alternative engine technology during the oil crisis of the 70’s).

Other than the info from my friend, I have read about Pratt & Whitney’s work with water injection, and found some good info on Rx7club by Howard Coleman and a guy ‘rx72c’. I only became interested in water injection a year and a half ago because up until then most of my experience had been with n/a engines.

So I guess if you are accusing me of copying you, then everyone with pre-turbo water injection must have copied you right? Realistically, everyones pre-turbo setups are going to be very similar anyway as there are only two ways of going about it – boost operated or elec pump. I went with what I think to be the simplest and potentially most reliable set up. It is also the cheapest setup as I’m on a tight budget.

LOL @ the nice story, more fiction than fact ^ :lol:
Both of your "readers" off the scum site regurgitate my redundant information and generally what I have been doing for decades so by your own admission you have copied me :lol: that's o.k. you are not the first and for sure will not be the last :lol:

Free bump to this thread.

Thought you might have entered WTAC this year with the car running well?

Quick question, IIRC yuo were running your solenoid at something like 2000hz (much faster than the response speed of the solenoid which is ~6.5ms?? anyway) so in effect you are using it (floating partial open) like an analogue valve rather than cycling on/off to achieve your mapped flow. Do you use a flyback diode over teh solenoid, and how linear to DC% is the flow rate curve (at any fixed feed pressure)?

You still happy with the dynatek CDI box/coils?

WTAC is a hack event with near zero return on investment anyway you cut it, so no need to waste sponsors or my money entering it, especially at the vastly inflated prices they stung entrants for this year. You only need look at the caliber of people who never come back to it from Sierra Sierra to the hobo classes in open or ghetto classes in clubsprint....... Being a real road car not run on faggot E85 I can drive my own superlap any time I feel like it and anywhere :) don't need to pay some **** for the honor OR waste thousands on tires or other consumables "racing" < LOL agains other loosers :) for a $10 plastic trophy.

I never run the solenoid at 2000 times per second.

I run a CDI system yes.

What was fucken intensely funny was seeing that GT Auto molested engine in the NEMO evo, I video'd it at EC and estimated it only had 500bhp LOL. Got flammed by some nobody **** on the internet cause the owner said it has 900HP at the wheels, then some dick head moderator on Ausrotary posts up that the engine did indeed have issues and it was dyno'd @ some dick workshop with 430rwkw LOL LOL LOL..........

Car weight is like 900kg 100kmh to 200kmh in 6.2 seconds
You do the maths, I did, even with a boat anchor (gayest aero on earth) out the back lucky if it made 500bhp at the event that I saw with my own two eyes.

That event and most in it are cunts, useless cunts.

I'd much rather go watch Pikes Peak where real engineers compete, with REAL 1000bhp cars, and real speed to match.

p.s. it's 2012 and still with 2.2lt these arse clowns cant make 1/2 the power that F1 made with 1.5lt and 30 years ago....... that scene is a joke.