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anodizing or painting timing wheel
I'm thinking about either painting or anodizing (I'd rather anodize actually) the wheel that the CAS reads off of but I want to make sure it won't have any adverse effects on timing or anything. I'm not sure how they are coated from the factory but I'm sure there is something on there since they are green. Does anyone have any idea if painting or anodizing it would hurt anything? I figure anodizing would be less of an issue since you're essentially just staining the metal instead of covering it with paint, since it reads with magnetism. But I could be wrong on all this haha.
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I painted my trigger wheel a few years ago and noticed no ill-effects. It's magnetic, so after sanding off the OEM coating I went very light around the tabs. I've seen no ill effects. I would think anodizing would have even less effect than the OEM coating.
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Cool. That's what I figured but I just wanted to check. I figured if anything I'd just sand off the back of the tab completely. Thanks!
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Anodize / anodizing implies aluminum.
I don't think that wheel is made out of aluminum? It's most likely plated (i.e. "cad plated") or coated. -Ted |
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Damn haha. I didn't know you could only anodize aluminum. Thanks for clearing that up. I wonder if I could get it re-plated then.
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If you REALLY want to make it shine I guess chrome would be an option.
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I don't want to make it shine though, I'm trying to turn everything black. I've even thought about sandblasting my aftermarket pulleys and anodizing them. I believe they're aluminum anyway haha.
Thanks for the input guys. I guess I'll look into plating for the non-aluminum stuff then. |
Mine is power coated and I sanded the back side of the tabs alittle to be sure the siginal was not weak . That was 6-7 years ago .
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I think it would look good, I hate how my pullies all look a nice neutral weathered color, then my greddy pullies are anodized light blue, looks so tacky... But I'll care about theta more once it's running good, take care of ascetics later... First I want more power, and a good tune to go with it... BDC anyone....?
Lol J. |
^Yeah that's where I am now. I have some time during the engine rebuild so I figured I'd go ahead and take care of the color swap while I'm at it.
BDC LOL!! |
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Hey I can do that myself, and it's cheaper!!!!! No need to supply your own datalogit either :rofl: J. |
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-Ted |
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So it looks like I'll be getting all the brackets and such electroless nickel plated. They will still conduct electricity so I shouldn't have any trouble grounding the pieces and I was told the trigger wheel won't have any problem feeding info to the crank angle sensors. I'll post up pics when completed.
I also got all my IC piping, manifolds and elbow powder coated and got the LIM and exhaust parts re-ceramic coated. Pic attached. |
NICE! LOVE IT!!! Can't wait to see her again. Who did the coating? SportTuner?
I'm going to have my the trigger wheels for my speed sensors Zinc plated I think. Who is doing the electroless nickle plating? |
Zinc plating is your best option, I offer the service gold or clear.
Min 100.00$ considering all parts are pre cleaned sand blasted. That will include allot more than just a timing wheel. I also offer anodizing to. min is 100.00$ Hope that helps.. http://img602.imageshack.us/img602/7877/bolts001.jpg Thanks |
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I guess he just changed his website, it didn't look like that just a few days again. Anyway, he's a good guy. I got everything done for $400. As for the electroless...I dropped off all the pieces Monday to a place here in C Springs, Ximpak, but they were going to charge me $190 and they were backed up a couple weeks. There is another place in town that said they could do electroless nickel and they could have it done in 3 days and a lot cheaper, so I picked up the parts from Ximpak and dropped it off at Finishes Limited today. But as it turns out they can't do electroless nickel in black, so I decided to get the steel oxidized black and the aluminum anodized black. The only problem is the alternator casing and the PS/AC bracket have steel pieces in them that I have to get out before they can be anodized and I'm not sure that's possible. In any case, the oxidizing will cost $60 and the anodizing will be $65, so I'm saving quite a bit of money. I've thought about just getting the aluminum (stuff for anodizing) just powder coated instead though. Zico works at a place here in town that shares a building with a powder coating place that will give him a discount. I still need to get the water pump, pump housing and filler neck all done still anyway. I'd also like to get the PS pump done but I'm not sure there is a way to do it that won't do some damage to it somehow. Quote:
Just out of curiosity though, why is zinc plating the best? I don't know much about all the different options. I did a search on them but there was so much info I just didn't have time to read it all. |
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I dropped off a few more pieces to get oxidized today.
-the bracket that holds the clutch line to the firewall -the metal brake booster line and the clamp that bolts it to the firewall -the box that the stock coils are mounted in (I've decided to move them back to the stock location). Quote:
Well my engine is going to be black and gunmetal/dark grey, so if there are a few shades of black/grey I won't mind HAHA. They said if it was anodized it would come out a little lighter than black, but that's OK. I'm still thinking about just getting all the remaining stuff powdercoated though. So would powder coating damage the water pump too? Is that what you're saying? Quote:
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