Frozen motor, any tips?
 

Trying to get this darned thing running after sitting all winter. The motor is frozen, the starter won't turn and I can't get the crank pulley to move either. I jacked up the rear to make sure the transmission wasn't locked in gear or anything. The wheels still turn when in neutral and are locked when the car is in gear.

Any tips besides bodybuilding and trying to get the crank pulley unfrozen? I do not have a long piece of pipe or anything to use as a cheater bar as of yet. Thanks guys.

Other than trying the ATF trick (which may do more damage than good) a breaker bar is your only option.

I'm really afraid of the ATF thing. The car ran perfect when I parked it a few months ago. If a seal or something is broken I'm going to be super mad.

I did pull a couple plugs to relieve the compression, but it didn't help much. Time to go muscle on it some more I guess.

Remove the sparkplugs and put in some light oil through the holes . Remove the clutch inspection plate and pry the flywheel around with a large screwdriver .If it starts to move just go an inch or two then go back the other way an inch or two .If this works just work it back and forth farther eack time .Easy does it so you will not break a seal .

Exactely. You can't really just muscle it as hard as you can. There's a very good chance that you'll break a seal doing that.

I've done the ATF trick before on a used engine that sat for waaaaaay too long.

I pulled the plugs, pulled the UIM, poured a little ATF down each port and into each spark plug hole. Let her sit overnight, went out the next day and with my 3/4" breakerbar and 52mm nut, just worked the flywheel back and forth until she started to move. Did exactely like David said and just went a little farther each time then back the other way until she'd rotate nice and easy.

The whole process took a few hours but the engine ran OK for a year or so before a coolant seal went to hell.

Personally, after what happened to me last year, I would crack the engine open, clean everything and put it back together.

Thanks guys. I did get the crank pulley to barely budge, but the starter still isn't strong enough to turn it. I will try putting some oil into the chambers and work it as described, that sounds much safer.

carbon chunk?

Your avatar says you are in New York????? What percentage antifreeze is in the engine coolant and how new is it??? Start there before you go wailing on the eccentric shaft with a breaker bar. Also pull the spark plugs to see if there is coolant in the chambers.

The starter is going to rotate it WAY too fast, don't do it.

Sounds like carbon lock. Never had any problems with ATF myself and TT gives a very good procedure.
There have been times where I had the plugs out and used compressed air to help blow out some of the crap as I rotated the motor back and forth. Most motors ran fine after getting it to turn freely by hand.

Thank god, maybe there is good news. I thought if it was carbon locked it would be done for. I'm going to get back on it Friday. Rotating it via the flywheel sounds like the best bet.

As for the coolant, I just moved up here and I made positive I had a good mix of antifreeze before I relocated. I even got anti-freeze washer fluid :D

Pulling the plugs and rotating the flywheel did it, thanks guys. Now I just need to get a charge on this stupid mini battery and hope its not flooded.

Took the car for a drive, ran well. So no eaten seal, hurray. Now I just need to find out why my coils or spark plug wires are arcing to the motor :<

COOL! Nicely done. I would still do a comp test, have one done digitally, so you can be certain there are no stuck seals.

Check out my coil relocation plate in the vinders section .That with new short wires will fix the problem .

One of the wires (Magnecores) had just pulled out of the boot a little. I cleaned it up and the car idles beautifully. Now I'm just fighting problems with this Odyssey battery. Looks like DGRR is go!