Diary of a Madman; TitaniumTT's see you @ DGRRXI RE-REbuild
 

So it's time to start a new. I figure we can devote this new thread to all the new doing's that are going on with the FC and leave the old DGRR '09 thread as what is has become, a blog of sorts :rofl:

So, what's in store for the ole' FC for DGRRX?

Well, first and foremost is a bath, a glaze and a wax. Then I'm going to find a slow draw on the electrical system. There's something from the factory that is killing the battery over the course of a few days. After that the interior is coming out, completely. Then the hood's coming off, the fenders, the doors, the engines coming out, the hatch is coming off, the sunroof and motor, all the suspension is coming out, the fuel tank is getting dropped, all the fuel/brake lines are coming off and what remains will get taped up and be put up on the rotisserie.

With the car upside down there is a little bit of undercarriage rot that needs to be addressed, as well as some strengthening of the, jackpoints that aren't jackpoints. I'm thinking about welding in some 1/4" plate and reinforcing it so that I can jack one side of the car at once while @ the track. After all that is done, the entire undercarriage will be epoxy primed and herculined - P/U truck bedliner material.

Then the reassembly begins. New, I repeat NEW S5 fuel tank and straps, the tank will probably be externally lined as well. The fuel and the brake-lines will be reinstalled, my rebuilt Torsen rear so Alex can have his back, and his fuel tank :rofl: the suspension will be put back on and the car will be put on the ground.

Once down it's time to finish installing the RX8 seats with the new welded nuts that I'm planning on installing. Then the interior is getting a few coats of Lizard Skin. After that it's time to start with the traction control. A little bit of wiring through the interior up to where the factory ECU once lived for the MoTeC Traction Control Multiplexer. Then of course it's all coming out to be put into the factory wiring. Also planning on cleaning up a few of the wiring that I installed over the past 13 years. Things that I installed that should've been in the factory block will eventually end up there, along with the cut-off switch etc etc, and there is a dead wire in the Front Harness that needs to be hunted down, moving the fuel pump switch to the rear, installing an inverter :suspect: new amps, a new sub maybe........ I hate wiring.

So then it's time for the interior to go back together. Nothing is really getting changed with the exception of the armrest, e-brake cover and shifter boot from redline, and a new 6-spd shift knob :suspect: Installing the seat belts but redoing the webbing in Black or grey to match the rest of the interior. Hoping to get a new steering column cover, repaint the shifter and stereo surround and buliding some sort of custom cup holders.... I know I know, but I need a steady supply and a good place to put my RedBull for the trip down. I'm thinking something that comes out of the glove box when it flips down and is totally invisible otherwise.

Once the interior is back together, it's time to address the engine. There are a few things that I want to address with the setup. First is the fuel system... yes still. There are some new injectors that hit the market recently that should not only solve the duty cycle issues that I'm having (93%) and the linearity of them is supposed to be incredible. Ontop of that I'm swapping out to some LS2 Yukon coils or a Bosch unit. Still need to make a phone call to decide on which setup. Then I need to find an equally sexy way to mount them as the LS1 coils that I have now.... then some new wires as well and figuring out which of my turbo cartidges are leaking a bit.

The Alternator, Waterpump, a few other bits of intake piping, some tanks and the strut tower braces are getting recoated so that they match perfectly.

The hood, front bumper and sunroof are getting repaired and repainted and if there is time the doors as well. Once everything is assembled the last order of business is the belly pan that I've been putting off as well as the front brake ducting. I've decided to hold off on the BBK becuase I simply don't need it. I'm able to lock up the front brakes even with the race tires on, I don't have any brake fade issues as of yet, and the $$$$ can be better spent on the FD project in the future. I will however swap the rear calipers as I'm pretty sure they are sticking slightly.

So, to recap and give a list -
1) Bath
2) Glaze and wax
3) Fog engine
4) Find slow draw
5) Strip interior
6) Remove hood, fenders, doors, hatch
7) Pull Engine/trans
8) Strip engine bay
9) Drop Fuel tank
10) Remove all fuel/brake lines
11) Strip all harnesses from car
12) Tape Chassis
13) Put the girl on the Rotisserie
14) Address the undercarriage rust/rot
15) Strengthen "jackpoints"
16) Fab NEW jack points
17) Prime undercarriage
18) Hurculine UnderCarriage
19) Install Fuel/Brake Lines
20) Install NEW fuel tank
21) Install Torsen rear and front/rear suspension
22) Take the girl off the rotisserie and get her on the jackstands, on the new points
23) Fabricate the remaining seat mounts
24) Lizardskin the interior
25) Install the sensors for the Traction control and run the wires.
26) Mount the TCM and remount the MoTeC where the factory ECU once lived
27) Re-wire some of the power for the PW,PDL, alarm, MoTeC, fuel pump etc etc etc.
28) Neaten up all the harnesses and re-install them
29) Fix the wiper switch :banghead:
30) Repaint the shifter surround, center surround
31) Re-install the interior with all the new bits, seats, seatbelts, etc etc.
32) Mount RedBull holders :lol:
33) Install new headunit, new PDX5 amp, new sub, and inverter
34) Fix the seeping front cover o-ring, new oil pump
35) New injectors & fuel rails
36) New coils and wires
37) Replace seeping cartridge
38) Repowdercoat/Ceramic coat a few of the bits that need to be
39) Install engine and super secret trans :suspect:
40) Fabricate trans mount
41) New Custom AL driveshaft
42) New intake piping?****
43) Repair/Repaint front bumper, hood, sunroof, and doors if there is time.
43) Fabricate AL belly pan and brake ducting
45) Install the custom AL washer bottle and figure out where to hide the nozzles.
46) Alignment
47) Corner Weighting
48) Rebalance tires
49) Back to KDR for some dyno tuning :cheers2:


Not a bad list, but there are only 94 days left until it's time to leave...... yikes..... I better get my shit together..... but take it apart first, like ALL the way apart :smilielol5:

Question as I am undecided...... Do I want to keep the intake piping as is
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1238395194

or redesign it to use only one filter such as this one

http://www.knfilters.com/images/l/RD-4400.jpg

Single filter, dual inlets though...... hmmmmm, which would be cleaner/sexier?

tell me more of these ls2 coils or the bosch unit? why are you changing from the ls1 setup and what are you planning on it lighting off? im interested as i may be dumping my pfc for the AEM 1900u and i will need a bad ass ignition setup to fire anything from e85 to a couple hundred CC of water anything up to 25psi at least. these are rough estimates for me but again why have you decided on the new coil setup?

z

That list and timeline should be no problem at all... :)


As for the air filter, with your fab skills, I think a single filter with a nice custom box around it would do nicely.

Pros:
1. Quicker replacement / cleaning
2. Easier to build box for it
3. Less "cluttered" engine bay
4. Less weight (you could potentially reduce the piping without affecting performance)

Cons:
1. Less surface area for filtration (correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like if you measured the two vs the one, two has more surface area)
2. Time... you only have 94 days :)
3. Single POF (point of failure)

Thats my two cents on it. If it were me, I'd probably keep the twin setup.... for now.

I agree, with your fab skills Brian I think a single filter with a custom air box(maybe something like alum with a clear plexi top would be sex)! Check out the pic of this diesel SB intake set up...just imagine with alum box.

I have an aluminum air box for an FC that has a plexi layer on the inside. Fits right in the front corner. It was made by some guy on 7club. He made a bunch of them, but like most FC guys, they all bailed when it was time to pony up the cash.

I got lucky and snagged one up, but never got around to actually installing it. The only thing you need is a custom TID, which I never got around to fabbing....because I can't fab.

People have been touting the LS1 coils for a LONG time yet they only produce ~60mj. LS2 coils require less dwell time and pump out 125mj. I don't know about the Bosch coils. Still waiting that phonecall back. The reason for the swap is pure experiment. On the Dyno Dave and I would make small changes to the L and pick up BIG gains. There are two reasons for that. The coils aren't pumping out enough power to light the mix, or my engine is just very sensitive to AF's. It could honestly be either one, OR it could even be weak wires. Plan is to build new wires and get on the dyno with the new new injectors. Run her for a baseline then swap the wires. Run her again and see if there is any difference. Swap the coils and use the same brand wires and run her again see if there is a difference in power. Then sell whatever setup I choose as it would be an incredibly sexy, almost bolt on ignition system for anyone with a standalone.

I think for the time being I'm going to keep the twin setup as I can run her just fine with it as is. If there's time, then I'll go and fab up the single setup as I agree, I think it would be a little neater. I'm not sure about a plexi top though, I think getting enough air in there would be a little difficult without cutting up the bulkhead. We'll see, I've got 94 days.

Thanks guys. I like the look of it, not sure how well it would fit in my bay though with the VMIC right there. I tried when I did the twin setup but it just looked odd.... I dunno, I dunno..... I like the theory alot, seems like it would be the way to go based on how many guys who have great looking cars are telling me to do it so it looks like I'll have to put it on the list :rofl:

Oh Bill, I never did measure the diameters, the filter area, etc etc... allthough I probably should....

looks like you have alot more on your plate then i do...at least today it was nice enough were i finally got that last shock in :) washing the engine bay tomorrow

i would love to see how the ignition system goes, if its usable for the pfc i would probably get whatever you end up making

You're crazy, a good kind of crazy, but crazy nonetheless. Can't wait to see it on the dragon this year.

I say leave the filters alone, I like the look of the dual filters. Unless you see some sort of benefit functionally?

Yeah, total dissasemble and reassemble in 94 days..... Like Dave said, I'm a sick individual.

The LSX coild should be useable with the PFC as they have thier own built in ignitors. We'll see though, I may not get any HP increase in which case I'll be selling my LS1 setup :suspect:

Me neither, I owe you a ride Scott. When are you planning on driving down? I wanna get a bitching caravan this year again.

I don't think there will be a benefit, just might look a little cleaner is all. About the last thing on my list though. Not needed to make the trip.

well im not looking for any HP increase for the ignition system, just something more reliable then stock FD coils

I really worry about your health, Brian!

Coils are definately reliable. Only problem is where I have them mounted. No AC or PS can be used, I've got them on a plate that mounts exactely where those guys once lived. You could relocate them though I suppose.

:smilielol5: Yeah, well I just got word from Alex that if his car is painted and mechanically sound, he'll drive it down to DGRRX..... so that leaves 92 days (I think) to finish all the fab, all the paint, rebuild the LS, and assemble the car. Top that off with everything that's happening with my 7, well, yeah, I'm a little worried too at this point Johnson :smilielol5:

Brian,

If you haven't purchased the new S5 tank, there's another custom mod that you can do. I modified an aluminum 15 gallon drag race cell, with sump, to fit in my son's TII stock location. Still retains the stock fuel level sender and fill/vent location. I can still pull up to the pump and fill up as I normally would. I coated the bottom with a textured flat black and it is almost completely camo'd....with the exception of seeing the -AN fitting for my -10 and -8 lines. I am running an external A1000 pump so I ditched all the other. If you are interested, I can send you some info and pics.

Todd B.

Yeah Todd, I'd love to see what you did! I looked and looked and couldn't find anything that would fit, most of what I found was plastic though, so there was no chance in it working. Whatever it is though, I need to figure it out PDQ, as I'm having hold ups with other things and haven't even touched the car yet when I was hoping to be spending an hour or so a night working on her..... 92 days?

Here you go my friend:

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...-1&showValue=1

That's the cell I used.

Here's what I did:

• Cut the mounting tabs off.
• Removed the filler cap assembly-then Tig welded a plate to cover the opening.
• Cut off the right roll over vent tube fitting-plug welded that.
• Traced out the stock TII fuel pump holder/pickup tube mounting plate in the left corner-then cut that out...which removed the other vent tube fitting.
• Drilled holes for the stock unit to mount in there.
• Over on the right side, I took a hole saw (I can't remember the correct size but one was around 2" and the other was around 3/4") and cut two holes...one for the filler, and one for the factory vent tube there-then welded in the correct size tubing which I also bead rolled.
• Lastly, I welded two 1" square pieces of aluminum across the top as a spacer (because this cell was right at one inch shorter than the stock tank).

I also had to cut off one of my fuel outlets and replace with a -10 AN bung, because this cell comes with both outlets -8. I'm running a -10 supply with a -8 return. Once everything was welded and cooled down, I applied commercial grade rubber strips to the 1" square spacers, bolted the stock fuel pickup assembly down using self tapping zinc coated screw (removed the TII pump, but left the gauge sending unit...it's almost a perfect fit), painted the bottom crinkle flat black, and mounted it using the stock TII straps. Everything hookups stock and I can even use the vent tubes for the charcoal canister if I want to.

The only thing that you can see is my red/blue anadoized AN fittings. I even used the black braided fuel lines to further camo the setup. Mounted the pump in the spare tire well and ran it to my Mallory 4309 regulator inside the engine bay.

I don't have pictures on the PC. They are still on the digi cam. I'll upload them soon and shoot you over some pics if ya want. Does all that make sense?

Todd B.

You can you LSX coils for a PFC but you're only going to get about 1/2 of the power out of them. The stock FD ignitor uses a falling edge signal from the ECU to trigger the coils, just like the signal that the LS coil needs. But because the PFC only drives the stock coils at 2.5 or so MS, you couldn't get anywhere near the full capability of the LS coils which can be driven at 5 MS. There's nowhere in the PowerFC to alter the charge time either...so you're stuck with low output.



Brian i just ordered a set of MSD Blaster coils 8245 they are just like the ls truck coils but more power.
http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/100/121/121-8245.jpg

Todd, you are a life saver and a curse at the same time ;) That's AWESOME!

Everything made perfect sense, I love it..... however.... you're giving me idea's that I don't need :smilielol5:

Now I'm thinking about buying that cell, doing everything that you did PLUS, cutting a piece out of the top to gain alot of access inside the thing and building an intank swirl tank. Something that I've always thought every turbo rotary owner should have.

My thoughts are to cut the top out and build a swirl tank, something on the order of a full gallon, just becuase, use the stock drop in supra TT pump that I have, TOTAL overkill but I own it and the stock fuel level sender. With the top cut out build a cup ala factory style that the pump will sit in. Retain the stock feed return lines as well as the sender.

The pump will pump fuel out of the Denso pump, and back into the cell where a line will feed directly into the swirl tank. Weld two -6AN bungs on either side as opposed to a bulkhead fitting, unless you think I've overkilling overkill already and plumb them into the swirl tank which will be welded in place. Run the overflow from the swirl tank parrellel with the feed line so it returns to the cup ala factory style.

-10 outlet on the swirl tank back through two welded -10 fittings (as opposed to a bulkhead fitting) to the outside of the tank where I can run my Bosch 044 pump. The return from the regulator will be run in parrellel with the feed and again through welded fittings on the side of the tank, through the tank to the swirl pot.

The end result will be just as kick ass as yours in that I can pull up to a gas station and fill up like any normal person which was my entire reason for NOT going with the fuel cell MONTHS ago.

One question for you though, how is your tank vented? Right now I converted the check valve and ran that to a sintered filter that I mounted directly above the filler cap. I was having problems with me cap not venting the pressure or vacuum that was being created. I ended up just doing what we always do in the marine world, I vented the bitch to atmosphere. I think I'll prob do that again, but run an anti-siphon loop (something overlooked in the marine world) and a roll-over check valve. So that if I DO fill the tank to the brim on a cold night, and let it sit on a hot day, the fuel will close off the vent valve and just build a bit of pressure until the cap releases some of it, and I don't have to worry about fuel spilling out of te vent line if I top her off and thrash on her immediately.

Anything else to consider? I would LOVE to see some pics. You set a high standard so i would love to see what you've got. Love the idea Todd, thanks much...... I think ;)

Huh, I didn't know that about the PFC - lame. However, that's sorta the problem that I'm having with the LS1 coils that I have. The problem with the rotary is the incredibly short charge time that's allowed between spark events. I sat down with my engineering buddy/MoTeC guru and we came up with a dwell table that allows basically the most charge time, and it's not all that suitable for the LS1 coils. Becuase of the rev's the charge time is dropped to (I THINK) 3-4ms in the high load/high RPM sites. Again, NOT getting full charge time. We just had a chat and he rec'd some coils out of an LS7 (I've got the Delco number written down) that can fire happily ALLLLLLLLL day long @ 2ms charge and produce the same mJ and up to 20% more than the LS1 coil @ 5ms. And they bolt in..... sorta.

So my plan is to hit the dyno again in April, Dave and I will tune the car with the new injectors, new coils. Then swap coils and make another pull. Same dwell table, same conditions and see if there is a drop in power from the LS7 to the LS1 coils.

Then I'll swap in the LS1 specific table dwell table and make another run. Side by side comparisions and we'll know for sure if the LS1 coil is suitable or not when given the full charge time allowed by the rotaries "timing."

Again, this is on the MoTeC with retarded amounts of adjustability so I'll be able to get the most out of the coils.....(I can even bump the dwell time when the boost comes on :smilielol5: although right now it's just basic rpm vs dwell) just for fun if we remember though, we'll do a pull with the LS1 coils @ 2.5ms and the LS7 coils @ 2.5 ms (if they don't auto-discharge at that length) and see where we land. Ahhhhh, the beauty of dyno's..... I need to make a list.

End result will be dyno proven power gains from coil to coil at full allowed charge time and whether or not the LS1 coil is really suitable for a rotary. I tend to think, based on what Dave and I found on the Dyno, that the spark is a little weak, as you're pointing out Tyler, becusae we can only dwell the eff'er for 3-4 ms.

Tyler, just as an aside, when I first started this pj, I was warned AGAINST those coils by my MoTeC guru. He had a few engines pop on the engine dyno becusae of them. Now they may have changed some, and I know a few guys use them, but I would think twice about them. I would go with something else. I'm curious what the difference in mJ output to charge time is with those vs a stocker Denso D5whatever the LS1 is. Do you know? Are those the auto Multiple Spark they toyed around with years ago?

I'm currently running the yukon/escalade coils but i got them off ebay and like most ebay shit 1 of them is crapping out, i've already fould 1 plug in a few 1k miles and i'm getting some break up underload.

I bought a coil setup off someone on the forum. MSD primary and yukon/escalde coils for secondary. I haven't ready anything about the msd's causing people to pop motors how would a coil cause that? Now you got me all parinoid :lol:

I was told the yukon/escalade coil was the 1 to get so i started there. I haven't heard anything bad about the MSD. I have talked to a couple guys running e85 and using the MSD coils and say they work great.

Only specs i have on the MSD coils
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ce13b/coil.jpg

No need for a swirl tank. I will be premixing with this TII, just as I have with all my other rotaries (22). With the A1000 and the return setup, there's plenty of mixing constantly going on when that big a$$ pump is running. The A1000 will not work, however, for your EFI setup, I don't believe. Unregulated, it will flow at 45psi, but once you add the drain of boost and RPMs, you won't have adequate flow pressure. You need to source a different pump.

Now, you do have the option of running an intank pump since you would install the factory mount back in there with my setup. Depending on your placement, you may have to modify the inside access hole for the cell. Plus, you would lose the benfit of having the sump of the cell. Just tossing out more ideas.

About the coils, I would second the MSDs, Brian. Well, that is unless you could find someone selling some left over LX92 Crane coils.

Here's what I've found in a TON of research today on coils, I keep coming back to the Delco D585 - the Yukon LS2 coils WITH the heatsink. If it doesn't have the heat sink it's the D514A and should be tossed because of dwell time/saturation/auto-release crap. The other option is the D510C from the latest gen LS7 engines. I'm waiting on clarification on differences between the D510C and the D585 before I make an order.

Here's what I found.
If it ain't Delco/Denso, it's crap knockoffs - garbage.
The LSX guys don't like the MSD coils. They have longevity problems with them. They MAY be overdwelling them though, because they can. Afterall, MSD is short for My Spark Died. My guy was running 1000+hp methanol rotaries and it was the Multiple Spark that killed it. Swapped to a standard D580 (LS1 coil) and the problem was gone. Why, I dunno, just passing on information. Most of the dyno queens around here don't like them either, Dave hates them.

The FI LSX guys are using the D585 and making HUGE power with them.
My Motec guy just engine dyno'ed something like 850BHP on a frankenstiened N/A LSX motor using the D510C's. Those are the ones he rec'd to me before I told him about the D585's. He had indicated that the D510C's are a little more effiecient. I gave him some numbers on the D585's, and he's going to compare them to what he knows about the D510C's and we'll make a decision on what is the best coil to use. Anything above these coils and you're into CDI territory and that's something completely different..... and that I'm ot going to go through becuase of my harness. Honestly I wold like to see 0 gain on the dyno switching coils. If I pick up 20ft/lbs of torque, I'll be doing an M&W on the FD.

Some guy over on LS1Tech took his LS1 F-body to the dyno, ran it with LS1 coils, while the car was strapped down swapped to some D585 Coils and used LS7 wires and picked up 9hp and 18 ft/lbs :eek: That's pretty impressive from a coil on an N/A engine.

Dammit, you guys have given me the bug to do something.

I am looking at getting new engine management, cooling, maybe an FMIC and doing some spot painting on the 'bad' parts for now.

Not trying to hijack, but you guys are smarter than I.

Todd, I think you missunderstood what I meant - I'll be running a surge tank. Basically a reserve fuel source contained in a container that is always full. I've run my car on the track in n/a form and in long sweeping lefthanders, the fuel would slosh away from the pump. As soon as the pump goes dry, pressure goes to 0 PDQ. The theory behind the surge tank is to keep the fuel contained so that it won't slosh away. The surge tank feeds directly to a larger pressure pump so that if the intank pump goes dry for a second, there is still a reserve of fuel in the surge tank to feed the larger pump. The intank pump and the return lines are fed into the surge tank to keep it as full as possible for as long as possible, and then the overflow from the surge tank is plumbed back into the fuel tank.

Here's a pic as provided by MoTeC.. well they had one
here's a few that I found
http://sdsefi.com/techsurge.htm
http://www.ratdat.com/?p=168
showing the basica plumbing of it all. I actually built a surge tank that mounted to my rear strut bar. But quickly realized that it ws a plumbing NIGHTMARE and to top it off the noise from an external pump in the car would've SUCKED.

As for the pump..... I have a Bosch 044 pump, that that thing is LOUD. If I mount it in the tank and isolate it well, it MAY be liveable. I dunno, who makes the quitest most reliable external pump?

Hmmmmmmmm, maybe the thing to do is weld a surge tank to the inside top of the tank so I can use a drop in In-Tank pump, like my supra pump, as opposed to an external Bosch pump. Ala ATL's black Box...... Bosch pumps are LOUD! Todd, what have you done!!! :rofl:

Scott, do you have you're setup running yet? I wanna hear these pumps of yours and see if it was the metal to metal mounting on mine or what.

I'm currently running 4 D585 w/ heat sink denso coils and i have now fouled 2 plugs in less than 2k miles on my rear trailing plug. I did get them off ebay so...

My new setup will be 2 D585 coils for trailing and 2 8247 MSD coils (i put the wrong part number down before th 8245's takes a different 4pin connector then the D585's i have now)

One of my friends is running the exact same setup but with D580 at 23psi with 20% meth without a hickup, well he did blow his motor but it wasn't the coils fault.

What are you running for wires, and plugs in the Trailing? What's your timing and A/F's @ while cruising and full load? Have you measured resistance on the wire? Dwell time?

The D580 is exactely what I have, except no chinese crap. Do they say Denso on them? Becuase I've seen Denso coils come out of a box not saying Denso on them, and there are a few co's out there making knock-offs and I KNOW they don't make the same spark.

Nice list. My first comment regards the paint. Prep is far more important than the actual products use as LSPs. Getting your finish perfect counts is 90% of the look. The LSPs are the other 10%. Second, you're a workaholic aren't you? :D

LSP's?

I'm not a workaholic, I just don't require sleep and I like impossible deadlines that require 44.5hrs straight work only for the stories and bragging rights.

I have no idea when I'm going down. I'll be taking a nice long car drive with Nate out to PA tomorrow to look at an FC I think my be flooded so I'll have plenty of time to get our heads together for this year. You are leaving Thursday morning correct? You doing the cabin dealy again? Let me know if it's still possible to get in on that as I'd jump on it in an instant.

Car is not running but I fully expect to beast it out and drive it down to DGRR. I got way too caught up in saving all my earnings so I will have that 20% down payment for a house. Kinda reassessed my life a little bit prioritized my wants and needs. Just started grabbing up overtime at work since it's easy money and signed up for 2 college classes in micro and macro economics so that will cut into my car building time but I got 3 months and there should be no reason it for it not to be driveable by then.

My pumps will be double insulated with sheet rubber and soft mounted to the chassis which I'm hoping will quiet them down. I also built a way over kill surge tank that will probably end up in the hatch. Hopefully soon we'll see how loud these things purr.

As far as I know I'm heading down Thurs morning and MAY run the whole way down that night, depends on when Phil needs me @ the damn.

Good for yo picking up the OT and stashing some cash. That was pretty much me over the summer. Lemme know if you have any questions with the econ, I has a degree in that :D Person to talk to about the cabin in Tray. As far as I know he's reserved it and needs coin, which reminds me, I need to shoot him some cash.

I'm curious as to how loud those dual 044's will be. I just rechecked the specs on my Denso pump, it's supposed to be good for 260lph @ 58psi. Figure I'm in need of 4000cc injectors @ 90% (overkill) is 216 lph or 83%..... the pump should be more than enough, just gotta think about this whole intank surge tank. Looked at the 20gal Jegs cell and I think that might actually fit as well..... just invert a corner for the fill and vent tubes..... although with all the shit going on inside, it may be easier to build one from scratch... I gotta see some pics from Todd and do some measuring.... ugh, I gotta get my car stripped like now.

What are your preliminary plans for the trip down?

MSD cut to fit wires. BUR9EQP. Crusing A/F are in the 13's at wot 10.5-11, here's a data log of my timing (street tune it's not going on a dyno tell i get my fuel system and meth in) I haven't check the wire reistance in the wires they are very well made the only thing i skimped on was the coils and it feels very much so like when a coil went out in my friends 1jz sc300.


I'll bet that's what it is, i did get them for 29$ per coil :lol:


http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...13b/timing.jpg
I'm having some boost issues hence the on and off throtle

Last Step Products. Basically sealants, waxes, and glazes.

i think i may try out the yukon ls2 coils if time permits, it seems that the majority of the rx8 guys are going with them and have had no problems so far, though there ignition system is a little different i dont see why they wouldnt work

well see how things go in the coming months....well weeks i guess

Do you have a few pics of them by chance? Do they have a heatsink on them? The L are a way rich for me. I started getting MUCH better response way less fouling the closer I got to 11.7 or .8L.

One BIG thing about the LSx coils is that they LOVE good clean "power" As in they need to see 13.5+ volts. I've heard this from alot of different people.

I would check the resistance of the wire, and what's the dwell time? Timing looks pretty spot on, mine doesn't go that far advcanced under cruise though

I did a few more hours of research last night when i couldn't sleep. Found a few more dyno sheets on LS1tech of guys that did back to back dyno runs of D580 vs D585 coils and alot of them picked up considerable gains.

Again though, all the LSX guys say run and hide from the MSD coils. They may not be adjusting the dwell though and I doubt they have the equipment to test them and are adjusting the dwell properly. From what I read last night from people actually testing the LSX coils, dwell above 5ms doesn't gain you anything. The D580 coils like to be dwelled for at least 3-4 ms, and the D585 coils can be dwelled less, and produce more energy.

I bet you got some knockoff junk. There are a few companies building replacement coils, and the replacements never perform as well as the OEM Denso's. I'm willing to bet you got a knockoff. All the D585 coils I see, Denso's, are selling for $64-$70.... soo you may have a knockoff that's just not pumping out the current. The way I see it, the plugs will foul as a result of the tuning. Nothing to do with the coil. However, more voltage from a better coil will acr a fouled plug.

Ah, gotcha, for last years DGRR I didn't even have time for those LSP's :rofl: I stopped at one of those drivethrough do-it-yourself car washes a few miles out.

The RX8 guys also for the most part aren't boosted either and they have MUCH cleaner L to work with than us boosted 13B guys.

When I first started this PJ YEARS ago I was given conflicting information. One engineer said go with the RX8 coils and forget the D580 coils as he's had nothing but problems, the other said rock the D580's, he's made some CRAZY hp numbers with them. Now thier both saying D585's :smilielol5: Still waiting to hear back on the difference between the D510c and the D585. Neither are plug and play from what I've seen, I would need to swap out the connector at the coil on the harness, and build new wires. So it looks like I'll be making 4 little harness adapters that I can plug into the harness and run to the D580 coils for the dyno test.... aight, I gotta get some work done to the rig today, the list keeps getting longer and the time shorter.... this is bad.

Yeah it was a basic street tune since i had a fuel system on order when we put the haltech in the car. I'll be working on getting my 850's and 1600's in this weekend and working on getting my 5gallone fuel cell in and running my lines for meth.

Yeah i checked the coils last night they say denso but the logo doesn't look the same as the one i was comparing it to on the internet. thank you ebay whatever we'll see how the new coil setup works.

I got to say brian i love your threads always very informative. I'm excited to see some of the creations you come up with for the FD, give me ideas to spend more money.