weird oil leak
 

My car is up on jack stands and last night I changed the oil.

I came home today and found a rather large - at least 1 qt of new oil on the garage floor. But when I checked the dip stick it says its full.

Any ideas???

There are to many places for it to leak from just to guess, you need to crawl back under it and get a general idea of where it's coming from.

But, if it didn't leak before and now it does after you changed the oil, i'd say it's the plug.

I don't think I have nailed down the exact source, but its dripping off the drivers side oil pan. Cleaned a lot of the underside last night.

I was a little amazed that the dip stick said full when it was down probably 2 qts. Makes sense though if the pan is full and leak is above the pan.

I am taking the day off to work on it (have to take 5 days this month-forced time off). I may pull the intercooler and intake box to get a better look.

My biggest fear - rear main seal, I am going to open the bell housing panels and see thats the culprit. If its not then I can sleep a tiny bit better tonight.

Whole thing sucks--amped up to bleed brakes and drive car just to have this happen. Oh well knew there would be days like this.

This is real simple. Oil flows DOWN and back if your driving so if you crall under the car it will be easy to see where just look above the last drop you find till its dry theres your oil leak. ALL the oil will be in the pan when shut down so if it says full its FULL. after you changed the oil you ran the car for a minute right? and sinse there are only 3 oil related things you touch when changing oil LOOK there first. OIL DRAIN PLUG, OIL FILTER and FILL/DIPSTICK. if i remember the drain is passanger side? and easy to see if its leaking. the other two are driver side oil filter could hve cut or non seated o-ring. hell it could be your fill neck cracked and leaked oil down the block being it is plastic. when you were filling it.

seals dont just crap out all of a sudden unless its a APEX SEAL lol look at what you touched first!

my 2c
Z

The engines are known to leak?

When was the last time you go your engine rebuilt? Also, check what you just touched as the guy above said.

I have never seen a rear main seal leak in a fd, ever. The new thinner oil could have created an oil pan leak. I haven seen oil pans leak with 10w30 but not leak with 20w50. Could be several things though

I have seen one leak..

We replaced the oil pan, put Garfinkle oil pan brace... and then, we still saw that oil was leaking.. Finally we saw that it was the main seal is where it was leaking from.

camera is dead, but I will post pics soon.

No the car hasn't been started yet. I have been rebuilding brakes and putting a downpipe on for the last few weeks. I have noticed a small leak before - but not a 3 ft wide circle in 24 hours.

Oil is dripping off the oil pan. Does it make sense that the oil pan is full - hense full dipstick reading and the engine above it be "empty"? I haven't had a chance to determine of the oil is running or not.

The oil fill neck is dry, the oil filter pedestal is dry the oil plug is dry.

I don't think I over filled the engine - but if I messed up (filling from large jug) would the oil come out some place up top?? i am thinking of draining and refilling and seeing if the same thing happens or the drip rate increases dramatically---something.

Thanks for your insight. I do appricate the help.

oh and about 12k miles on a mazda reman.

It shouldn't leak if you overfilled it unless it's coming out of the dipstick. How much did you put in it, it'd proably take a good bit? To me it's sorta odd to leak just sitting there unless it's a MAJOR leak, most stuff doesn't seam to show up unless it's running.

If it's not from the oil filter, the filler neck, or dipstick, the only thing left on that side is the oil lines to/from the oil cooler. Or it could be what David and Phil said.

the circles spot is where it is dripping from on the drivers side.

The engine should be under warranty, I just don'twant to take it to a dealership unless I really have to to save money.

well, I buttoned up the car from putting the dp on. I drained the oil - a little over 3 qts. left in the enigne. Dipstick still read full (before I drained the oil).

I filled the car up and took it for a little drive. came back cleaned up the garage floor a little bit moved car - a 1/2 cup of oil must have drained out in 10min-nice puddle in the drive way.

I did notice oil coming from the driver side pan and passenger pan. I am pretty sure I have a boost leak or the turbos craped out (105k miles on them). Other than that the car starts great, idles great.

engine warranty ran out on 2/26 :banghead:. The dealership quoted $250 but wants to look at the car before setting anything in stone. Rotary Performance said $550 plus parts - around a 6hr job. I have a feeling I will be learning how to drop the oil pan.

again thanks for the help.

It could be the bottom corner of the front cover. The seal/gasket might be broken or a piece is missing and when your oil level is above the oil pan/housing level, it will leak out. I had a mazda reman that leaked all over the place after a few months and when I looked for the leak I noticed that a piece of the seal was sticking out from the side. If this is the case, you will have to remove everything in front to get to it.....a pain in the ass. You should try to get a replacement gasket out of metal instead of paper.

thats my worry. I am don't mind the pan. But I don't want to replace the pan, just to find out I have to remove the front of the engine - and the pan agian. Would be better off just yanking the engine--but I don't want to do that if its just the pan.

I may try to see if uv/ blacklight dye helps find any new info.

used the uv/black light dye. It leaking from driver's side and passenger side at the front of the engine. Really think its the front cover and not the oil pan.

I know the front cover can be pain - but after you remove everything - how hard it is to replace the gasket?

if you able to get the front cover off, replacing the gasket is like replacing any other flat mating surface gasket (not much to it) need to get everything clean, clean, clean. The hardest part is getting the main pullies off and making sure that you have the thrust bearing properly aligned and inplace when everything goes back together or you might be possibly looking at major damage. Just try to get a metal replacement and don't forget that there is an o-ring and a teflon retaining ring for the oil passage in the middle of the front cover.