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:rofl: I may hit you up with that...... How do you feel about driving a Jeep that just says GTFOOMY!
That of course being Get The Fuck Out Of My Way |
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Soooooooooooooo It's been about a month since an update... and sadly I really haven't done much of anything at all.... I was in cali for a few weeks, then vday, then weather, then a 2.3l Mazda decided to puke a cam chain tensioner... soooo yeah.... haven't done much... still piddling around with the little stuff on the turbo side of things..... because love taking the most simple of tasks and making them as complicated as possible.
HOWEVER.... if anyone is running a T4 flange and they can't seem to get to the forward most facing nut underneath on the flange... you know which one I'm talking about... this motherfucker...... http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1393482793 Then I have got a little hint for you. Take that fucking asshole stud out and drill out the threads.... then call the guys over @ Full Race and order their Inconel nut and washer kit and an extra long m10 stud, with an extra Inconel washer and 2 nuts....as seen right hearh... http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1393482793 The stud has one side with a 5mm recessed allen on it. So before dropping the turbo in, slide the stud through with the allen facing down. Thread a nut on till it's plumb with the top of the nut. Drop the turbo over your new gasket and three proper studs. Slip the washer over the back of the stud, thread the other nut on, insert the allen key and tighten away.... viola. The way my mani sits its next to impossble to get that one fucking nut loose. In the past I have always just taken the entire turbo, mani, dumptubes out as ONE PIECE. Just easier that way... however, now with the watercooled WG lines, there's just not enough room. The lines sit too close to the framerail and the mani will not slide over the studs... soooooo something new had to be figured out. Honestly, it was that ONE nut that forced me to take the entire thing out... so it had to go. Also started working on the new oil return line. A little better of a drain given the WG placement thanks to a 17* clock on the CHRA to hopefully allow for a thermal siphon http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1393482793 Also wrapped my DP as well.... went with 1" and decided to buy 50' of it. Glad I thought about it and did some rough math... pretty sure I used just about 30' of it to wrap the entire DP. The worst part of it is the transition from 3-4" I found that it was easiest to start from the 4" side of and cross into the 3" side, then wrap a little of the 4" and cross back into the 3". I probably used a little more than I needed to, but it gave the tightest fit. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1393482793 Now all that is left to do is address this little area http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1393482793 with some self adhearing Lava Rock and then it's off to play the waiting game on some copper exhaust nuts and then the turbo can be installed all permanently like. That area took a BEATING though.... a few of the nuts that were used to mount shit got frozen in place, most of them came out with the exception of 2 M8's, which is why I don't use the button heads anymore, I only use the socket heads. I'll get them out though, I need them to mount a few adel clamps. The heater core return line also took a pounding and will need to be replaces and covered with some heat rejectant material I got from Verocious... then it's onto boost control lines and I can hopefully move away from the mechanical stuff, rewire a few things under the hood and them move into the interior. Oh.... all 5 of the trannies showed up @ S1 earlier this week so hopefully this weekend I'll get a chance to drop the tranny out of the 8 and get that off to S1 for some cryo goodness as well :D |
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I mentioned earlier that I was planning on dropping the WG spring down to 10psi and using a 4 port solenoid to control boost. While this will theoretically give 4x WG spring pressure, I think it will be more like 2.5-3.... but I could be wrong, I think it happened once :smilielol5: Anywho... I got a delivery from Verocious of a box of goodies... sadly I still need to order some more -4 line. Next time I'm going to do this all with hardline and just plan in some extra for movement. It's SOOOOOOOO much cheaper to do it this way.. but I suspect I'll be spending a few hundred on a REALLY nice bender because I actually broke my last one... over use I suppose.....
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1393483124 I mounted the solenoids in the most logical place. and they are fed right from the charge pipe. Nice short runs there. From there when the solenoid is at rest, the pass through the solenoid runs to the bottom port of the WG. When the WG is energized pressure is diverted away from the bottom port and applied to the top port keeping the WG closed. So the lines are run VERY cleanly. they both run parallel from the solenoid to the WG... very clean, I likey... Verocious also had some pretty trick AN line separators as well to make things even cleaner :D http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1393483124 http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1393483124 So I'm waiting for a bit more line and some more fittings and nuts and I can button up everything on the turbo side of things. Hopefully the line comes quick and I can start building a new AST to help the thermal siphon a little more as well. A few other odds and ends and I can start on the electrical both in the engine bay and the interior. 2-3 more weeks... hopefully and I can be on the dyno... the weather isn't helping any nor is life itself... Oh well... theres still 7 weeks......... FUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 7 WEEEEEKS?!?!?!?! |
Sorry going to be having leftovers from us next week maybe as soon as Sunday. We let the cold in Cali let in the snow..
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Yup.... looks like another 8" tomorrow :naughty:
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