I like how/where your wastegates are attached, mainly. I do love my manifold but I like things about yours better.

Is there a Dyno sheet, or video etc In this thread?

Damn right!

Psssshhhhhh... an excuse that is not!!!!

No shit! Thanks Colin! I'll fire off an email to them tomorrow actually.... I wonder... it would be nice.... the input shaft bearings seem to be the weak point now.... well... the hubs are still an issue but I'm blaming my fragged forks for that.

It's not stubborn... it's determination damnit!

Ah.... I see.., thanks Eric. Drive to CT, I'll build you one ;)

There might be, if there is I have no idea where it would be. Seeing as I haven't updated for 2 years, any dyno sheets or video are going to be pretty useless though. I'll have her back on the dyno sometime on March most likely, depending on what goes on with the tranny... if it gets towards late March I'll just slap the TII on and head for the dyno. With some sloppy hurried tuning she did 405 @ 14psi. I'm confident if the turbo and engine are still in the same health as they were a year ago, I'll be able to eek out more power. Then we're going to turn it up to wherever we need to in order to break 500. I'm guessing it's going to be around 21-23 psi with 2000cc's of WM50 available. We'll see what happens.

I had this concern as well. However like you mentioned, there are a bunch of OEM's that mount the map sensor directly to the intake manifold. Additionally I have had my fuel pressure sensor mounted on the motor (indirectly) without issue as well as oil pressure sensor.

That said, a failed fuel/oil pressure sensor is a lot less catastrophic than a failed MAP sensor :o15:

For this reason I will mount the MAP sensor to the fire wall... I have just been bitten by the hard line bug and have been looking for ways to eliminate rubber/silicone hose wherever possible :p

When I was wiring up a 2JZ for a friend I was shocked when I saw the map sensor. It wasn't anything like the GM version, it's a simple NPT threaded sensor like the rest of the sensors on the engine. It was part of the old AEM V1 ecu kit for the supra, so not sure what car it originally came on (I think supra's had MAF sensors originally so it was not from the car itself).

Either way, it completely eliminated the need for a vacuum line, and look much cleaner because it could hide under the plenum with the air intake temp sensor.

This is exactly what I wanted to use, however for my boost level goals they do not make a sensor with acceptable resolution. Best I can find is a 3.5 bar. I'm sure there is one out there somewhere though.

Oh snap, you want more than 3.5 bar? Did you try looking them up at digikey.com? Thy have all kinds of things like that. And on his, he made over 900whp, again this is on a stroked 3.4 liter 2JZ, so I'm sure boost levels were not as high as you'll need.

haha no, less than 3.5 bar. A 3 bar is even more than I need but it would still give adequate resolution. I don't need/want a lot of power for what I do.

Thanks! I might do that lol. I'd like to build a new one and move the wastegates like yours if I can, and also move my EGT sensors back a tad. I think they're contacting flame because they act funny sometimes, especially when doing a road trip down the highway.

I like your progress. I wish I had time to work on mine these days lol.

OEM's also have to make a lot of compromises that we don't if we don't feel the need to. Soooooooooo, yeah... I'll mount my sensors where I damn well please :lol:

Yeah.... That.... the other thing that's nice about mounting a MAP sensor to the manifold, especially on top of the mani is that you don't have to worry about any sink traps in the lines collecting moisture....

Did you happen to see the pic of the MAP sensor mount? I'm having a dozen of them cut, and I have 1 or two left over if you're interested ;)

The problem with that AEM sensor is that the sensor output is not a straight line, it's more of an exponential curve. I tried to use one on a PS1000 that I tuned in an FB. The problem was the halltech didn't have enough data points to properly mimic the curve of the sensor so it was too fidgety to tune consistently. It wasn't worth it, so I stole a sensor mount from my car, popped a GM 3B MAP sensor on it and all was more than good from there.

GM 3B with a billet mount!!!

But it is nice to be able to twist a knob and dial up the ponies from say 350 to over 500.....

Hell man, I'm game! But it'll be a while... unless you want to send me your turbo, then I could mock it up in my FD :D Check out RXtacy's build thread... the two of us managed to get his TD61 in a good spot with twin TiAL MVS's.... although... just like my LimeRock pipe, I wouldn't want to do a recirc.... fuck that... besides... I like open gates tickling the bowels of my ear drums.

What kind of sensors are you using? Mine are moujnted very close to the ports I'm pretty sure they're contacting the flame and they are pretty rock solid.... you could always take the hc approach and mount them in the dp :smilielol5::rofl::lol::rofl::smilielol5:

I would like more time as well... I won't be working on the FC for another 2 weeks....

Oh I'm in no hurry to make a new manifold. Just thought it would be pretty cool. I'd like to finally put my Millermatic 140 Autoset to good use and start practicing welding, but I have career things that are taking front seat at the moment. Yeah I like RXtacy's build. I have those wastegates too, but I was looking at recirculating them. Although, they are very useful when someone pisses me off and their windows are down so I can blow out their eardrums going WOT past them lol. Also, installing all the recirc stuff would be such a huge PITA. But I'm thinking about going with 4" exhaust all the way back but trying to make it quieter also lol.

I'm using some open tip fast reacting sensors from The Sensor Connection, but I don't remember which ones off the top of my head. They're a few inches back from the flange, but when I'm cruising on the highway, after a while they'll max out at 1900 or 2000 (I don't remember which is max), and just stay there. So I was thinking they might be too close. And occasionally they'll read pretty far off from each other. Other than that they're usually good. I'll try to resist mounting them in the DP lol.

Aren't you getting the FC ready for Deal's Gap?

I was trying to find a small enough cut out valve to use with the WG;s..... best of both worlds. But they're huge, both in length and in diameter. I never found one that would work.

Or pedestrians in Manhattan.... Full throttle through 1st pop off the rev limiter and watch people jump for cover... I'm such a dick sometimes :lol:


It is... it's horrible especially where we have our mani's placed. If we mounted them further forward and higher, it would exponentially easier

I've seen cars, my own included just get hotter and hotter and hotter the longer they cruise. For this reason I said fuck it and just ran mine @ 12.5:1 and slightly leaner in cruise. I still get close to 20 mpg too but the EGT's are much much lower after extended times cruising. If they're close to each other in temp, I'm inclined to say they they're working ok, even if you are seein EGT's that high... it's when they've always been a few degrees off and then they suddenly spike to a few hundred degrees difference that it makes me think that they are acting up.

Give the guys over at Exhaust Gas Technologies a shout, they have some really thick open tipped sensors that can withstand rotary heat.

I start getting ready for Deals Gap 11 months before its on again..... I love that show. Are you planning on making a trip out this year Eric?

Have you ever had any open tip sensors fail? how many miles have you put on them?

Sometimes? :squint: