Got the new TiAL installed tonight.... what a motherfucker of a PITA it was.

Basically where I had the greedy was too far back for the TiAL as it stands more proud than the old one. So what I had to do was cut the old greedy flange off. Then file down all the welding. Grind into what was left of the greedy flange to cut through the weld that penetrated, and then beat it out with a punch.

Ironically the hole that I needed for the TiAL flange was the exact same OD as the old greedy BOV. The difference is the greedy flange was .25" cast AL and the TiAL a .063ish billet. So yes Mike, the TiAL will flow METRIC ASSTONS more than the greedy ;)

Had the TiAL been .25" shorter it would've worked and I could've just welded it all up. Instead what I had to do was grind the hole in the elbow into an egg shape so that I could position the new flange as far forward as possible. What this did obviously was leave a gaping hole aft of the new flange. So... I had to lay 5 or 6 beads around the back of the hole, and then file them down to close the gap.... what an ordeal... but that's one more thing off the list.

Tolerances are TIGHT and I hope to hell the engine doesn't rock all that much. If it does, which it shouldn't because of how I mounted the trans and the torque brace I have on the UIM, I'll have to rebuild the elbow.... oh well... it started life as one of the Greedy ones for an FD... obviously this one has been just ever so slightly modified :rofl:

Seeing as how I haven't even turned on my welder since June... I can live with these welds

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1391152119

See what I mean... that's about as far forward as I could get it. Because of the angle of the elbow and the angle of the brace... it take a lot of forward movement to get the BOV just a little bit farther away from the brace.... Oh well.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1391152119

If you look towards the back you can see where I had to weld up the gap

:svengo:http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1391152119


TIGHT!!!!!

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1391152119

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1391152119

Braided line because vac line is for pussies :lol:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1391152119

Hey John.... as I promised.... a pic of my "LimeRock Pipe" :rofl:
It is possible to reroute dual WG's with a 4" exhaust... but it's not fun.. it's even worse to install it. Because of the motor mounts in an FC. The manifold with WG's and turbo and Downpipe need to be installed all as one... not a pleasant experience at all. I don't even want to think about how it's going to be accomplished with the water cooled wastegates. Getting to a few of those fittings is going to be a nightmare....

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...&d=1391150325]

And here is a pic for John regarding the MAP sensor mount.....
GM whateverBar MAP sensor fits ontop. The nipple is sealed by an o-ring and the cavity continues to an 1/8" NPT port where you can put your choice of fitting on. The MAP sensor bolts to the top of the mount, and the mount bolts to wherever you want it to. I love this little thing. It's a great idea.... much better than hc's idea to smear some fucking RTV inside the reference line and toss a ziptie on it... then wonder why his car won't start or stay running...
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...&d=1391150325]

I think the guy was talking about the radiant temps of the engine - rear versus front.


-Ted

I have gone to pick up parts, its just over the state line... and I have met her :biggthumpup:

To be determined.

Saw the pictures... this is a great idea, and perfect timing. I was just looking into one of those SS pressure transducers that I can use as a map sensor because they are 1/8" NPT. Unfortunately I could only find one in 3.5 BAR and I don't plan on running anywhere near that boost so I don't want to use it due to the loss in resolution. This however is the perfect solution to be able to use a GM 3 Bar. Only downside is I wanted to mount the transducer directly to the manifold. However I could probably still mount this adapter block to the UIM somewhere then run a hardline (seeing as I wont have to worry about flex).

Yup! he is bringing all his fancy hardline tools. What flaring tool have you been using? I was looking into this Ridgid tool (the MasterCool is too rich for my blood) for finishing up everything after John leaves

http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-41162-M...d_sim_sbs_hi_1

Ah gotcha now I'm on board :lol:

Have fun at your tube party :naughty:

You'd prob be disappointed. Everytime I talk to a chick on the phone who sounds cute they are always the antithesis :rofl:

If it's what I think it is we need to talk. I think you might be wasting your time.

My point was do you need the extra flow ;) Have you had compressor surge?

Also who taught you how to use the camera on your phone? :fawk:

Ah..... yes I can see the radiant heat back there effecting temps in the engine itself...

Oh Really? And is she :biggthumpup: or the antithesis as Mike says? (And.... I too have experienced :rofl: )

Ah..... Ok... well... if you're interested in what I've got going on, shoot me a txt or the pics will be up in here in a few weeks..

Kewl. I do love that adapter. The only thing that I would suggest is that I try to keep transducers off the engine. Keep them away from the vibrations and they tend to last longer. Of course, GM themselves have mounted their MAP sensors directly on the engine in the past soooooo yeah.

Alright, when I get them, I'll give you a shout :biggthumpup:

I borrowed Colins MasterCool with the 37* flare kit as well. Oddly enough the week after I borrowed it, Kyle bought a rebranded one from Snap-On for literally a 40% increase.... needless to say he was more than annoyed. He owns it though and will be using it a lot.

Honestly, I've tried a lot of the manual flaring tools in the past, and none have worked as well and consistently and EASILT as the MasterCool. Most of the hand crank ones would either break on me, or not give a full flare. This was of course while flaring Stainless steel. Regular steel and AL you can get away with it, but if I'm going through the trouble of building a hardline, it's going to be out of stainless. My suggestion would be to borrow one until you're done with it. Next time I need a flaring tool, I do plan on just buying one. It really is worth it considering the amount of times I've wanted to do hardlines and just ended up either using a soft line or the adapters like this
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ea...6erl/overview/
which a RETURN line ended up leaking on me... go figure.... If I have the time I'm seriously thinking about redoing my fuel lines with a 37* flare and a male adapter on the softline like this guy
http://www.anplumbing.com/images/pro...1869_thumb.jpg

:rofl; That....

There's always hope.....

Oh really.... I'll shoot you a txt in a few minutes....

I have not... yet.... but I've hear the BOV crack when it shouldn't have which was one reason for swapping it out.

:fawk: I actually almost ended up using my phone. Last time I was at horror freight they had a sale on batteries... so I picked up a bundle of AAA and AA batteries. My camera died, so I threw in 4 BRAND NEW HORROR FREIGHT batteries and the camera would take a picture, and then turn off without taking a picture. WTF? Try it again... motherfucker.... So I put it down and carried on. NOT taking pictures of the steps to make the TiAL fit. On a hunch... I pulled two of the batteries out of the garbage and replaced two of the horror freight batteries with the dead Duracell and OMFG the camera worked. So in short.... dead Duracels are better than brand new horror freight batteries. And I always thought my penlights died so quick because I was leaving them on in my pocket :rofl:

I just cant take the gayness of this build thread.......lol

:squint: Why do I think this is Dave on Kyles account? :smilielol5:

lol nope all kyle baby!!!!!! looking good tho

:smilielol5: Thanks man.... Game on to see who's car is done first?

In tranny news I just scored a bundle of S1 RX8 trannies.... Buy 4 get one free... I'm not even kidding. So plan will be to build one and cryo it for the FC. Build one and cryo it for the RX8. Build one and cryo it for the vert. Rebuild and cryo the one in the RX8 as a backup. And find the parts to rebuild the one I blew up as a backup backup. Although, the one in the 8,now has lasted 200k miles, and the vert will never see the abuse that my could has.... Aaaaannndddd I still have the S5 Til trans in case all fails.... So yeah.... Surrounded by trannies AND I LOVE IT!!!!

:suspect:

Always knew you were into all kind of tranny love!

Of course yours will be done first. Im poor. Altough i did just spend anoth 400 on parts yesterday

You should see if Liberty Transmissions has an upgrade for the RX8 tranny. They have started doing the FD's and making them great for the guys with 3 rotor turbos.

He is too stubborn