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Looking good man. Great job on the mani. Looks top notch.
Time to ditch that Rtek and get a real EMS ;) I'm thinking something that starts with an "M" and ends in "otec" As for the welder, I love my Millers, both of them have served me very well. I generally only TIG AL as my MIG welds tend to look like, and have the penetration characteristics of TIG welds anyway. Not bragging, just saying my MIG welded steel > my TIG welded steel. After that start saving for a Plasma. You'll wonder how you ever lived without it. |
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As for plasma... maybe. I'm thinking when I get a house and a garage, I'll build a workshop out back and build me a waterjet. I love being an engineer. :lol: |
Well, finally got a decent air filter on the car. Went by pepboys and saw they had modular intake tubes and couplings for about 11-12 bucks a section. On top of that they had an AFM adapter for 15 bucks. So I picked that up lickity split and saved myself 100 bucks plus shipping. Granted, it's not the best quality in the world, but it's better than what I was running before... (:suspect: pillowcase:suspect:)
Talked to RTek recently about why I can't get above a specific RPM while in boost (since it's impossible for me to get above 4 grand without being in boost), and they have told me that it is extremely detrimental to run the MAP sensor for the NA in boost, and that I would need to pick up a TURBO ecu and MAP sensor and figure out the wiring to run everything proper. I'm looking more and more in to picking up a Motec, but at the same time I might be able to just pick up a Haltech/AEM and run a can bus (granted it won't be as awesome as a motec, but it does free up funds for other necessities that I would require for this project: Cannon plugs, electric AC, etc) If however I manage to find a deal or can magically afford a motec, i'm definitely going with one. The only trouble is I don't know what M series to go for. M400... M800... Just don't know... lol |
Depends in how many outputs you need. I believe the inputs are the same through out the series, the difference is in the outputs. Make a list of how many you need,
Lambda fan fuel/ignition tackh driver boost control BAC Aux inj one or two more maybe, and then start filling in the blanks on the schematic. If you run out of outputs on a 400, start with a 6 If you run out on a 600, then it's time for an 800 |
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Haltechs are cheap and reliable too ;)
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I got pulled over today for inadequet exhaust. Granted my exhaust is loud, but by no means is it loud and annoying compared to the fart cannons. In all honesty it's quieter than my stock exhaust (at idle and cruise, but not during acceleration)that I have gotten a ticket for. I've driven in front of Alexandria/Fairfax cops and haven't gotten pulled... but I did get off quite nicely because the officer cut me a break. That being said, I'm wondering if there is a way to reduce noise levels without addition of new mufflers, or spending excess money to quiet it down for city driving. |
ERECTIONmotive is also affordable and powerful :)
FWIW, I'd stay away from the AEM box, the software will make you want to blow your head off. Two words for quick and easy quieting of the exhaust: Butt plug. Works awesome for noise, is quick to install and remove, but does limit the useage of the car while its in there. IE. don't go to the track with it in. |
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What do you have now in terms of exhaust? I'm running a Magnaflow "pre-silencer" which has one 3" in and 2 2.5" outs, and then two magnaflow cans that are 2.5" in/out. My exhaust is quiet. I actually really enjoy it. She snarls when all out but VERY quiet with a nice deep note when @ idle and cruise. |
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The only one that I can find that will fit my application:
http://www.carchemistry.com/shop/ind...ct_detail&p=18 Apexi only has 90mm to 115mm, and the 90mm is 1/2in too big. |
90/25.4" = 3.5" Maybe buy a 3.5" tip from summit for ~$20?
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