New gear oil and motor oil has been added. Just trying to hunt down someone to help me with timing.

You have my number, lol... are you in culpeper or down in blacksburg doing this work?

Blacksburg--otherwise I would have called you. :lol:

Timing is set. All sensors report well except what looks like the fuel pressure sender. Will have to troubleshoot that when the rain lets up. I currently have the battery being charged so I don't wear it out too quickly.

I can't stress enough how important it is to log FPSI and it's good to have a comp table set up as well :suspect:

Welp... I figured out why the FP wasn't reading correctly. This idiot crimped the shielding on to the crimp of the mil spec connector. do'h. I have one last female crimp left. so I'll be removing that tomorrow and recrimping it. I'll also begin the process of attempting to figure out why the car won't start, and may even restab the cas and double check the timing once again.

Car has started but there's a few things wrong that I've found so far:

the car is leaking oil like a sieve from the turbo drain flange. I have to wait for the car to cool down and figure out a way to tighten it. May need to remove the compressor housing and go at it that way.

The car is running improperly. It's pulling a vacuum of -3.9 inHG at almost 1000RPM. Which isn't right. It should be pulling much, much more than that. I've checked for a vac leak, but couldn't find any.

The car also seems to be running peculiarly... almost like it's missing. On top of that the AFR is reading in the neighborhood of 12:1 which is way off (should be reading just under stoich).

One of the EGT's isn't reading correctly and I think it might be that the wires or the amplifier got fried some where. anyways it sounds like it's running on two rotors; the EGT I can read says that at idle i'm putting out somewhere in the neighborhood of 750-1000F.

I think this is informing me that I have a lot of tuning to do. If anyone is available to help me today, please help me. I need to get my car up and running/drivable today at the latest.

WE3--If you're willing to make a road trip to help me I would greatly appreciate it.

Compression test before anything, and make sure your MAP sensor is calibrated properly

No, that's about right, I would even say a little lean for cold startup

Swap the inputs and see if it reads backwards. Meaning #1 is running ~750*, swap it with the number 2. If #2 is now running 750* than it's safe to say that it's a wiring problem. If #1 now reads what #2 was reading.... mechanical problem

psssssshhhhhh, what does WE3 know about a rotary that makes more torque than my lawnmower? :smilielol5::rofl::lol:;)

Well, looks like I won't be driving the 7 up this week. I've worked out my issues with the MAP, apparently the nipple I chose to have the MAP mounted to is a piece of crap that doesn't do anything. I've tee'd off the next nipple that was pulling vacuum and it's now reading the proper vacuum for the engine. I'm in the -20 to -15 range. I have a stable idle and am working on leaning everything out to reduce the RPM's to the proper levels (currently likes to idle high by about 500 rpm). Still have some issues to work out with the oil burning (I'm thinking the carbon seal on my turbo is gone). But that might be a project for another time and another person.

Just heard from Racepak, they're shipping out my newly repaired dash today. :lol:

Dash is installed, but I'm having more issues with the car. I'm so annoyed right now.

Before I left I was able to have it idling strong without issue--Now the stupid thing barely starts and when it does it stalls out after about 3 seconds. I have spark, I'm fairly confident I have fuel, but without the fuel sender actually displaying the values I'm blind on that front; though I did hook up the mechanical gauge and got a reading of 45.3psi which gradually fell after the key was turned. It's almost like it has a massive vac leak which I should be able to see... but I can't.

Any ideas?

I'm sick of this car--It won't even start anymore. I have spark, I'm fairly confident I have fuel. What's left?

Does anyone have a Haltech map I could use to troubleshoot?

Crank it over with the mewchanical fpsi installed and make certain ther is indeed a fresh good supply of fuel.

How long has that fuel been in there?
When was the last time you changed the filter?
When was the last time the injectors were cleaned and flow tested?

After you're certain you have fuel and she still ain't right, compression test time.

Crank it over with the mewchanical fpsi installed and make certain ther is indeed a fresh good supply of fuel.

How long has that fuel been in there?
When was the last time you changed the filter?
When was the last time the injectors were cleaned and flow tested?

After you're certain you have fuel and she still ain't right, compression test time.

Something was up with the fuel; for some reason the fuel pump wasn't getting power. I jiggled the electrical connection and it roared back into life.

Now it's tuning time. I need to get it streetable in less than 8 hours tomorrow (and then safety inspected). We'll see how that goes. I can't seem to get the idle dialed in without it dying out, which is quite annoying. It idles fine at 2000 RPM but when I attempt to get it down to 1000 RPM it doesn't like it very much and stalls.

Fuel sender still doesn't read correctly even though there is no grounding out issues. I had to adjust the trigger angle while tooth offset is set at 10 the trigger angle has moved to 61 degrees, which I think is peculiar.

Anyone have any pointers?