Money hasn't exchanged hands yet so if you want to post up or PM me what you've got, I'd be interested to know for sure!

I sorta took the hood from the 'vert to make the replacement hood for my FC becuase I found an atihun hood for the 'vert that I just had to have when I thought I was going to keep it n/a.... then I decided I was going to boost it becuase.... well.... why the hell not?!?!? Actually there are some financial reasons for it, cost will be ABOUT the same... because I would more than likely put an ECU on there for a bunch of reasons, so now the cost is about the same to boost it. But now I don't have a hood, I'm not found of FMIC at all, EXPECIALLY with a stock sized turbo, so now I'm either going to need to find a TII hood, do a VMIC :rolleyes: or this SMIC turned w2a.... I like that idea the best. Definately the coolest and I get to experiment and play a little with what with essentially be a pretty bone stock car... by my standards anyway.

OK, so a good friend of mine sorta left his camera behind at my shop so I could transfer his pics... and damn does it take nice pics!!

Anywho... remember that lower fitting on the AST, well here is where it's plumbed into the radiator. As close to the top as I could get it. Any air that gets trapped in the rad during filling should be purged out through this line and into the AST where it'll be purged into the overflow. I must say, the whole thing works really well.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1306122557

And here is the best license plate frame that I have ever owned. As per the new agreement, I need to display a MazdaSpeed logo somewhere on the car. The frame is awesome. Not only is it stainless steel... it has a really nicely laid out CF pattern, it has two rubber spacers for behind the bolts, it has a nice strip of rubber for the bottom of the plate, it comes with all stainless fasteners for either the rear machine threads or the front sheetmetal threads, there are a set of clear cup washers that are used with the caps to hide the fasteners.... I've only seen one other plate frame like this... and it's on my Mighty XJ :rofl:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1306122557

I'll look for the turbo/manifold this eve after work.


Will your mom keep up with keeping the H2O cold? if not wouldn't it be just hot air after a while? I thought W2A intercoolers were only suitable for drag racing could you enlighten me?

Sweet, thanks pal! I would need an ENTIRE longblock..

That's what I want to mess around with, and this is why I would need a helltech with a bunch of inputs. I would need to see, ait's before the turbo, after the turbo, true AIT's and coolant temp before and after the heat exchanger.

I would use the AC condenser or a small radiator mounted where the condensor lives in the stock location, just a little farther forward away from the radiator. The thought is if I can keep the water close to ambient, I should be able to keep the AIT's close to ambient as well. This is the theory, and this is what I would like to test.

Mmmmmm! Drive up here in august or september and help me with the fab work on my shits and I will help you with your fab shits? Half ya on gas and redbull. Will also take ya fishing at my stocked pond? I should have my Tig welder by then too. I am also currently looking into supplying the local refinery with mandrel bent tubing so there is a slight chance I may be doing that soon.


Oh and why no CF exhaust guards included in pic^^^

Sweet, thanks pal! I would need an ENTIRE longblock..


All I ever had was the turbo/manifold never had a complete longblock to work with( I have a boat anchor shortblock) thats why I decided to use a 13B-RE then a second apex RX6 kit popped up and had to go that route since I am happy with the one on the FD

MORE! I need more car porn, even if its your dirty bitch.

Stand by on the call...


Did you end up needing longer wheel studs? Just curious as I'm trying to avoid spacers as well and wanted to make sure everything stays relatively the same as far as length is concerned.

Ah I see.... ok then.... what kind of shape is that short block in?

I suspect you'll actually make a little more power with the RE than you do with the REW at similar boost levels. That lil' FB is gonna be a rocket!

I'll see what I can do about getting you some more spanking material... damn perverts....

I did, bought them just need to install them. I've also got a set of 5mm hubcentric spacers as well. I'm not so sure you'll need them though. I have a suspicion that my BBS's will actually fit. Still waiting to get the 'vert out to actually test them out. Either way though I'm installing the longer wheel studs.

The other option would be to run a different caliper. I believe the Superlite Narrows would fit my Works without interferance but I have yet to did up thier spec sheets and verify that.

What wheels/offsets are you running? I think the thing to do would be to get the hat and rotor and install them, bolt the wheel up and then make your choice in caliper....

Nice brakes! If I ever end up out-growing mine, I'll drop a line :)

I doubt it is any good at all anymore it got a little H2O in it and it won't turn over at all now so boat anchor or core for a reman is all I would count it as.

I hope the power of the RE is higher at similar boost as the REW esp. since it will be in a 2500lb car (2540 full street trim now) I think traction WILL be a small problem though
BTW... the engine will have a set of 9.4:1 rotors in it so the low to mid range power should make it really pull hard from 2,000 to wherever peak torque will be.

Thanks Johnson..... something tells me you won't though... what are the sizes you're running again?

Ah.... gotcha... yeah... I need something that I can take apart, clean, replace the apex seals, maybe do a little porting and slap it all back together.

The runners are intake mani yeild themselves to more torque at lower ranges and the flow of the engine seems higher. The 9.4's will definately give it more kick in vac and the lower boost ranges but limit slightly the higherboost. Just keep an eye on the EGT's when tuning and all should be well. Should be a badass setup for sure.... especially in that little lightweight FB. Any traction control or aftermkt diff?