Thanks man! I was happy once it was finished. Just got the sheet metal from good old ACE in .032'' and used some avaition shears.

**one note: to secure the bottom of the long shield that is secured by the UIM nut, I rounded the bottom edge(look closley in the first pic) and drilled a hole where the front rotor housing exhaust manifold stud is. Then you can get a ratcheting 14mm wrench down there to snug another 14mm nut tight over the shield to keep it flopping around.

Total cost was like 40.00 with DIY heat shielding matting included.

I am SURE you will conjure up something sweet. :)

BTW Does anyone know which way the rear swaybar endlinks go: Larger bushing eyelet up or down? My FC had one side oppisite the other WTF??

doesnt the fsm have that in it?

Nope, very lame. One end of the endlinks has a yellow dot on top BUT the fsm fails to specify which way up or down...

Where did you get the "heat shielding" tape from?

A did a few runs out in the country the other day, and after I got back home, popped the hood and the turbine housing was glowing a dull red.... After seeing that I really like the heat shield tape idea. I dunno if I can cram a shield in between the stock S4 turbo, through...

Jegs or Summit have it. I even think Checker Auto or O'Rielly's has the DEI products.

ANYONE in regards to the endlinks???

The bolt on the control arm can only be one size becuase it's threaded into the arm. I would take which ever end fits more snug and put that on the control arm. Find a snug fitting nut & bolt for the top and have at it.

Honestly though, try driving around with no rear bar. Neither my lifted XJ nor my lowered 7 are running a rear bar and both feel great.

/\ What kind of suspension mods have you done? Do you think that this would be beneficial on a stock suspension? I have heard that it's only worthwhile to do if you modified your suspension a lot. (ie: coilovers, RCA, bushings, etc)

Hey quick question guys: When installing these Energy Suspension bushings, CAN you torque the lower control arm bolts before the FC is on the wheels. I know you dont torque the endlinks till wieght is on the suspension BUT I have found conflicting opinions on the matter.

What do you guys think?? Blitz 01 17x8 17x9. I will powder coat center graphite.

I think I am gonna do it. I may have a buyer for my SSR's

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...wnload-1-2.jpg

those wheels are sex.

Pure furious animal sex.

I know! They are sweet!!

Hey Classic you have any idea in regards to my bushing/ control arm torque question??

Which bushings in which arms Sean? If they are the front outer bolts on the rear control arms, snug them, but leave them loose, you'll want to be able to get to them when you set your rear toe.

Those were the bushing that I remember seeing last.

I'm digging the wheels.... ALOT

They are the bushings on the front control arms. The two bolts that bolt the U bracket up the the front crossmember and then the long 17mm bolt that passes through the eye/bushing on the front bushing of the FRONT control arm. lol

Yes the wheels are so so nice. Cant wait to buy them.

Gotcha, torque it all down with the car in the air but make sure everything moves smooth.....stiff... but smooth.

Thanks bro!

I hope thanksgiving was good. BTW I showed my cousin, who got me into the rotary scene your little turkey video. He laughed pretty hard, so did my mother and aunt. They cracked up when you yelled. "what the FUCK!" lol

Oh the good old times of family get togethers and large amounts of alcohol.

just a nipple for the ventbro, maybe try cleaning it and then hit it with a little CA glue?

Are you still using your charcoal canister?

as long as the tip valve thing can function (ie if you roll fuel doesnt come out of it) then i wouldnt be all too worried unless the smell of fuel bothers you.

The tip that broke doesn't have the valve IIRC.... the check ball vavle do hickey is located in top of the tank and the 3 way connector is activated by engine vac.... IIRC... been a LONG time since I had to figure all that out.

I know what I did though, I took that valve in top of the tank and vented it to atmosphere through a sintered filter that I located on top over the fuel fill. I smell ZERO gas.

aww where is the fun in that?

I'm a smoker, it worries me :dunno:

I was trying to convince my partner to do the same thing with his tank, then I realized I HAVE his tank so whether he wants to or not, it's gonna happen :lol: actually, it already happened

Thanks man. That is what I thought and after a little more FSM searching I knew what it was and where it routed.

SUPER GLUE TIME!


BTW FUCK torquing the rear SB endlink bushings....That blew. WISH i had a alignment rack just laying around lol.

:smilielol5: I'm tellin' ya man, ditch the rear bar alltogether

I know I know but I am only running Tanabe springs and Tokico Blues. I heard you only want to run no bar IF you have coilovers with a moderatly high spring rate??? Just a rumor....?

The benefit will be there regardless of the spring rates being used.... I would think less spring rate would result in a higher benefit from no bar, allows the suspension to flex. If there were no springs, only shocks and you went hard into a turn the inside wheel would lift from the outside wheels compression and the swaybar picking the inner up. So I dunno how much truth there is to what you heard.

FWIW I'm running a 7/5 setup, RB front and no rear and I love it. VERY neutral, slight understeer when I head into a turn too hot or too hard on the brakes.

So I have everything finished with my damn bushings. I have to say that if anyone planned on doing that in one night IT IS possible but a pain in the ass if your suspension has not been tampered with since it left the showroom floor back in the 80's lol.

I am thinking what I want to do next for this winter?? I would like to wire my Fuel pump to a relay but an unsure how I can have it cycle off if the engine stops running while the ignition is on. VERY tired today and will figure it out when I wake up...brain not working 100% today

Other projects are gonna include some camber plates, fuel system maintenance(filter and strainer), interior work on door panel carpet and maybe some more engine bay wire tucking.

Got some AWESOME news on Sat night; My wife and I have been trying for another little monster and my superior genetic seed pulled through and we are expecting in August:icon_tup::icon_tup: I am very stoked:):)

SO...Looks as if the wheels are gonna have to wait til tax time:rofl:.......if other expenses do not take priority for the sake of our second child. Actually the FC will definately be on the back burner for a while now BUT it is basically where I want it besides wanting some new wheels/rubber and small exterior tweaks.

Those good old Guard Drill paychecks will have to be "car paychecks" since that money is kind of a bonus and usually never budgeted:001_005:

So I REALLY like the Work Equips that rotarybeat purchased on the other forum. A couple options:

Silver
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...quipwheels.jpg

Black
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...ipwheels-1.jpg

Graphite (MY FAVORITE)
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...ipwheels-2.jpg


What you all think?? Blitz 01's or Work's..:o11:

I think I am going Work VS-XX Now Silver, Gold or Gunmetal. I really like gold lol....seriously though. :)


http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...urray/VSXX.jpg

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...ray/VSXX-2.jpg

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...ray/VSXX-3.jpg

Gold on blue is too Subie for me.

I know I know BUT it does pop though. :)

Silver is MOST LIKELY what I will do since powder coating is so damn expensove up here in MT.

How many miles do you have on your engine? Are you able to drive it in the winter?

Nope. I have about 1100 miles on her. Weather is nasty here and even when the snow melts there is so much gravel it will strip the paint off your front end.

True story.

I like the silver or the Gunmetal. When/if this happens Sean, you need to tell me what happens with the front bearing caps. I still haven't had the chance to really delve into that issue as I plan on using the Works as race for the FC for now, although they may become DD duty for the FD in the future.

That sucks man... like alot. I have MAYBE one more week of the FC before she's away till April :icon_tdown:

Will do on the caps bro. And yes it blows balls that winter is isolation for the FC up here in MT. I miss the winter days in Cali BUT not the other BS that comes with that damn state. ;)

You know you want to come back here!

Yeah for Sevenstock and In and Out.....thats it:001_005: :rofl:

So the SSR's sold today and left on a UPS truck to their new home!! :)

Working on the VS-XX's with the seller. Sounds like it is for sure. YES!!

Little Update:

So I ended up getting a sweet deal on some 17''x8 +28, 17''x9 +29 WORK EQUIPS. I liked the VS-XX's BUT the Equips are just to sweet!! I should be getting them by Tuesday.

Now I am in the process of deciding what series of tire I want to get. It is a pickle due to how much fender gap I want with these new shoes.

I am up in the air with either 40 or 45 series tires. 45's will fill my wheel wells perfect with my current Tokico/gf210 set up BUT will probably feel sloppy. 40's will be stiff BUT will leave a slighlty larger gap in my fenders....I am most likely just gonna get coilovers this tax season so this may be all in vain lol. :rofl:


Meanwhile today I decided I am gonna need to roll my fenders regardless if I ever lower this FC more. Went at it this morning with a heat gun and rubber body mallet................

Passenger side went GREAT with no cracking.
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...derroll003.jpg
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...derroll001.jpg
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...derroll002.jpg

The driverside was a **** and already had a "bite" in the fender lip that caused a small 2mm crack this last summer. I knew the crack was gonna spread and sure as shit it grew about 2''....
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...derroll004.jpg
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...derroll006.jpg

Here is the crack after I touched it up(my ocd couldn't let this fly though...;))
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...derroll005.jpg


SOOOOOOOOO then I said screw it and got out some 2000 grit and wet sanded that damn crack, applies some touch up, then some rubbing compound, then a heavy coat of 3M Hand Glaze followed by a little more touch up paint. Turned out GREAT and is barely noticable. :icon_tup:
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...derroll007.jpg
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...derroll008.jpg


As for tires I am thinking about Nitto NT555's or Falken FK425's. If ANYONE knows of other street Ultra HP tires, please fill me in.

Will post pics of the wheels as soon as they get here.

Federal 595RSR's are decently priced and perform quite well.

As for fender rolling, I pulled mine out a little more today, the paint cracked big time where the bondo was.