Both? Hymlar on the lower portion of the housings and petro on the O-Ring/Fire rings. That's if you're going by factory spec.

:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

Yeah yeah yeah, sometimes being "single" has it's advantages. I can devote all my time, energy, blood, sweat and other bodily fluids to my Most Ungreatful Mistress if I so choose, or I can devote it to the other

Cool, I actually got all my seals in yesterday and the injectors showed up today. My Cryo'ed parts won't be ready until Tuesday though. So all that means is more time on the water. It'll be a welcomed distraction.

I use vaseline on the irons in the grooves for the water and gas seals. Then I put a VERY thin layer of Hylomar around the housing being VERY careful as to how much I apply and even more importantly, where. You'll see what I mean. Basically you don't want the Hylomar squeezing out into the housings and contacting apex seals. Also, head down to the local chandlery store and see if they have some epoxy syringes. Pack that bitch full of vaseline, you silly fuck ;), and use that to apply the vaseline to the the grooves. Works wonders. Way better than using your mitts to get it in there.

BTW - those housings show up yet?

I wish I knew where to pick up those syringes when I was rebuilding mine. Major pita getting the vaso off my hands. Made me want to go spank my monkey in the corner... or maybe I should have done that on the housings?

:rofl:

A tip though if you plan on putting the hylomar on the housings as well is to put the dowel pins in first, then slide the housing over the dowel pins. This way you won't accidentally pull a seal out of the groove by it sticking to the hylomar ;)

Thanks for the tips guys.

VEX- I feel ya on the petro all over your hands. When I assisted in a couple builds years ago, I remember getting assigned that bitch job and afterwards I grabbed my beer to sit back and watch and the damn thing slipped out my hand, fell into a oil drip pan and splashed 10w-30 all over my cousins FD. :)


BDC sent me a pic text of his port job on my rear iron. Looks great and can't wait for further inspection.

I am off to go wake board, you all have a fun and safe 4th and Brian, make sure you spare some of that attention and bodily fluids for your girl........they tend to get jealous from time to time. Just ask my wife. :)

No worries Sean ;) The vasoline is quite a PITA. THe syringes I buy are fine enough to actually get it in the side seal groove as well.

Generally what I do also, because so much cripe sticks to the vasloine, is clearance all the rotors last. So the vasoline isn't sitting static collecting dust and dirt. Or, if I clearance everything but need to wait a day or two, I'll set everything with no vaso, and keep everything together with rubber bands. Then dissasemble, apply the vaso, then start stacking.

One more tip that I find eases starting - use both engine oil and 2-stroke oil when building the engine. Use the engine oil on the bearings, and between the side seals including the oil control rings. Use the 2-stroke where it can burn. It seems to really help in the starting. Even though you're cranking for a good minute maybe in 7 second bursts to get oil pressure up, check timing, check for leaks, etc etc, they still seems to start up MUCH quicker when I use the two stroke oil in the combustion area. Makes alot of sense too.

Tons of good build tips in this thread :)

Sharing is Caring :lol:

Well clearancing side seals takes FOREVER!! Worth it though, I think I will go for .003

Now I don't know if this is a rumor but sometime ago I heard that you shouldn't use petro jelly on a rebuild if it is gonna stay static for a week or two due to swelling? Anyone confirm this, and if true what do you use?

You can use the vaso nastiness on all the hard metal seals. Where you don't want to use it is on any of the soft seals. The water seals, the o-rings, things like that. The seals will actually absord the vaso and swell to the point where they cannot be used. Leaving it on clearanced rotors is fine though, I would just put them in a bag to keep them clean though.

OK. Why the fuck does the FSM insist on using petro on the o-rings and water seals? So just install the water seals dry then?

BTW Brian, I still ahven't recieved the housings. You have a tracking number by chance. Thanks bro.

I think the FSM says to use the vaso bacuase they are assuming that the engine is going to be assembled immediately.

I wouldn't put the gas/water seals in dry, I just wouldn't put the vaso on the irons until you're ready to assemble the engine.

I've got the tracking number. Lemme grab it and see what's going on with that. The went out last friday. I understand there was a holiday involved but gimme a flippin break.

BTW - that vid will be in the mail on Thursday. It kinda covers what we're talking about here.

Thanks again buddy for all the help. It is very appreciated!

I just went through your thread again for shits and giggles and FUCK you have had a hell of a run. I never saw your cannon plugs in the firewall. I had that same idea back in 07 but got lazy and decided to just rewire the factory harness. I work with those cannon plugs everyday on the F-15/P&W 220's, and back when I was on the F-16 they always inspired me to put them in my 7. Good job!


So update on my build: BDC sent out my irons so I should recieve those by Monday. In addition my rotor should arrive the same time.

All I have left is to clean my good rotor(WD-40 time!!) and order all my water, side and oil seals.

I am a little relucant to clearance my side seals to .05mm....not much room for expansion in case a horrible quick overheat ever happens(which I will in all my control never let happen). Please enlighten me if I am just being a giant vagina but it seems safer.

Payday is Friday so Mazdatrix well get me the shit by friday of next week so.........build starts in two weeks.

Thanks Sean. I LOVE those cannon plugs. Never again will my back ache from installing an UIM after the engine is stabbed in. I assemble the ENTIRE engine, stab it in, make a few connections and BAM - fire time! No worries on the help, anytime. I'm going to get those tracking numbers for you in a few minutes.

Your vagina is oozing estgrogen ;) I've been clearancing them to .05mm and never had a problem (except for that one time during the emmisions test when water and oil got to 260*+). In fact, after talking to Dave, this engine will be .025-.03mm. He's also broken down Mazda Factory remans and found ZERO clearance, ported the engine, reassembled, and they just run like champs. So .05 is now my new max and it's Mazda's min.

Don't forget that alot of the cooling on the rotor's comes from the oil

Shit I better get some VAGI-CLEAN and a garden hose.:o11:


Well I will clearance them to .05 because I am easily convinced. I am fucking pulling my hair out on this down time waiting for parts. I actually just PM'ed Barry Bordes in regards to the shitty HKS csat mani and 50mm WG I am running and how to port for less creep. The 50mm holds steady but with the 10psi yellow spring I still was hitting 14.5-15psi with the boost controller off. It doesn't go any higher then 15 ever.

That is my target AFR but I have no control with my boost controller and if I ever get a little creep on a cold night i have no way to lower it. I have fail safes like a Greddy relief valve set to 17 psi and my fuel maps set to 10% richer above 16 psi on my MAP scale but I want control too! :cuss:

I would go a whole other route with a better exhst mani but that means MORE fabriation to my DP and intercooler piping since my blow-off valve barely clears my strut tower. I just want to drive this summer.........winter project maybe if this creep cant be solved(if I break-in IN time for boost).