Thanks! I wish I've been able to work on it more lately. The last six months have been pretty hectic. All I've done lately is replace the rear right caliper (again) to fix a non-functioning parking brake. The rear left needs replacing as well since I noticed it's been leaking.

Got what's left of the front wiring harness wrapped up. This is the part that goes into the engine bay along the driver's side.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rv...=w1698-h955-no

It's not the prettiest but it holds everything together.

IDK, I think it looks pretty good.

I'm in the process of moving both cars over to a collector's insurance policy. This necessitates lots of pictures and this one of the engine bay as it stands today is worth sharing.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KQ...=w1698-h955-no

Been forever since an update. Took a break over the Winter but am now getting back into things. I should have the wiring harness done shortly. Then it's putting everything back together and setting up the display and ECU, which seem like daunting tasks.

Once the harness is assembly and back in I've thought about using the starter to turn the motor over and get some oil circulating around. As long as the ECU is disconnected and I remove the spark plugs is there any harm in doing this?

Good Lord thats clean. What intake mani and ITB set up is that? EFI Hardware? I wanna see this car in person... come to Deals Gap.

The intake manifold is custom made by Logan at Defined Autoworks. I gave him the throttle body and am using one of his port configurations so it's nicely matched. The throttle body is a EFI hardware unit. It's the 55 mm IDA setup without the idle adjustment screws. Race Series, I think? I wanted their tapered-bore series with the idle adjustment screws but Logan recommended an inlet size of at least 52 mm. I see now EFI has a billet unit that tapers from 60 mm to 55 mm but it's like $1700!

I want to do DGRR so badly but it's very unlikely this'll be done in time. I'm getting all the wiring done now and assuming everything works I'll still need to setup the display and tune the car before it's driving. Anyone wanna help?

Add lightness.

Pshaw! It's just money, ... the wife will just spend it on shoes anyway. ;)

I would like to tune this one and see what it does and how nice it is to drive after all is said and done.

MAP based or Alpha-N?
What ECU?

:Wconfused:

:rofl:

I just wanted to join the conversation so I got updates on the build. :rofl: adding irrelevant post just secured my email notifications when updated. It is a really great looking build and I love seeing street to race car builds.

It's a Lotus thing....

Gotta simplify as well.

I have no turbo so it's the only way to go.

Haltech PS1000. Being naturally aspirated with ITB's and a big streetport I was advised against trying to use MAP although I have the provision for it. Getting this thing setup properly and tuned is the one task I fear the most. I don't even know where to start. I may have to take you up on the tuning offer. I'd just have to find a way to get the car to you.

I'm hoping it'll drive well enough for what it is and not be an on/off switch at 8000 RPM. Comfort-wise, it's basically a track car: no A/C, no heat, no radio, no P/S, next-to-no insulation, solid engine and transmission mounts, etc.

Duh :facepalm2:

So instead of adding turbo, add lightness? Why not both? :Wconfused:

Trailer! Werd, the MAP sensor is probably NOT going to be the way to go, although it may help with some blending at idle if the PS1k will allow that. Otherwise it's just Alpha-N because physics. Just gotta make sure you've got a rock solid TPS sensor and mounting for it.

Spec's on the internals?