Fast acting AIT sensor you say? Link perhaps? max operating temp? I need something that I can measure pre-intercooler charge air temps with. Just becuase

Yeah it was, got my Mobil bill yesterday - $461.xx is alot of mileage in a month :lol:

i have a megasquirt currently but i have yet to figure out the datalogging

oh I see.

Here you are bro. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...=sensor&page=6


This weekend I am currently working on some custom .o25'' ducting that travels from my intercooler-by the oil cooler- to the koyo.

I have been doing it all by hand with some sheet metal snips and some small 3/8 self tapping sheet metal screws. lol

it is coming along just have to put some sealing foam/ soft rubber around the edges that will cause chaffing against the intercooler and radiator cores. Two more brackets to fabricate and then I will test her on tues.
This should take all the air coming through the intercooler and guide it right to the oil cooler and rad. This "should" work great since the radatior shroud I bought years ago and the new improved fan shroud from corksprt have improved air flow. I just NEEDED something to keep the air from dissipating out the bottom of the car after it passes the intercooler

Well ducting is done. Like I said, kinda ghetto( I hate sub-par shit on my FC) BUT hopefully will be functional. I would have like to do it with rivets and spot welded a couple of the brackets but I work with what I have.

All the screws are secured on the backside with a retaining bead of clear RTV and all the corners are sealed with weather stripping foam. The front and rear of the duct has about 1.5'' of foam so when it is bolted it is very air tight and compressed. Along the sides was a little more difficult. Some small areas for a little air loss BUT NOT MUCH.

I hope my oil cooler line doesn't get too hot on the foam:leaving:

All in all I am pleased and wil be much happier once I see some temps drop, Lets hope for a high 80* F day tomorrow so I can test compared to last week.

Nicely done Sean:icon_tup: A'int working with that stuff a bitch? I built mine out of .063 5052 AL. I figured it would take me a weekend........ nope, 2 and a few hours every day in between. Pissed me off. Looks awesome and jusding by the one oil cooler line that can be seen, I wouldn't worry too much about it.

Thanks man for the kind words considering I still think it is ghetto-fabulous. It really was a bitch, most time consuming part was going back and forth taking measurements and constantly re-installing it to ensure proper fitment when a new bracket or hole was to be installed/drilled.

I REALLY wish I would have waited and had Sheet-Metal up here at my work take a gander at it and fabricate something nice. Either way, it would have only been better looking.

Well after driving around for about an hour and constantly charging the intake to atmospheric pressure and cruising around 3k constant, my oil temps never ran above 165* F.
It would go back to about 178*F sitting and heat soaking but the moment I got above 25mph it would drop pretty fast.

SAME goes for my SWEET new AIT sensor. That SOB would read 45*C after heat soaking and then immediately after driving it would drop to 36*C. After about 2 mins @ 30 mph she was reading 29* C steady and actually went down to 27* C at 50 mph.

Good shit. Now lets see what an 85* F day will do tomoorow temp wise.

Nicely done man.... funtion > form but if you can make it look good in the process :D

I need to get some more information on this fast actin AIT sensor, and do some more testing on mine. Like you did, heatsoak the intercooler and then go for a rip down the highway. Also need to get that coolant probe out of the charge pipe, the thing is not giving any useable data whatsoever. I need to find an AIT sensor that can handle 300+F

Are you using any supports on that big ass belly pan? If I ever get around to building mine it'll be out of .063 5052 and I'm a little concerned that it'll move and sing and "bong" at speeds

You know, I thought about putting an 1''x2''x22'' support out of the left over material across the belly pan but once I bolted all the sides up it really had no play waht so ever. I think the 1.5'' of sealing foam on the front and back act as leverage and cause the belly pan to have a natural concave bend to it. EVEN pushing down on it from the inside takes quite a bit force. It is very fucking snug.

I got up to about 90 mph last night and if my damn FC wasn't so loud maybe I could have heard something. Only way to check is with a wind tunnel I guess. :)


BTW, I drove the car to work this morning and it was about 56*F ambient and my AIT sensor was reading 18*c most the drive. I had to lean up my 10*C to 30*C Air Intake Temp-to-Injection table because I have never seen those low temps. Even this time last year with my last motor, the lowest reading I would get after some driving was about 24*C and I believe that was on 45* F mornings. SOOO good it makes you wanna slap your mamma!


So Brian... why do you need a AIT sensor that can handle 300* F ??:o11:

Gave her a wash and wax tonight. mnmmmmmmmm smooth

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...9250920071.jpg

Hey, I figured this out! My Compression tester pushes right into the port (no hose). I went to Silver86's the other day and we compression tested his engine, we got 45-50 psi bounces with his gauge (with a long hose). We tried it on my '91 and got 65 psi pulses.

I feel stupid, the difference is the amount of air to compress in the hose going up to the compression gauge. I should have thought of this before.

The '91 gets 110 psi on his gauge (so don't feel at all bad about 55 psi).

Just thought I would clear this up.

Cool man! Thanks for the clear up. I will have to check with no hose around 2000 miles.

Well I have 955 miles on her now. Fucking taking forever BUT she is feeling more responsive everyday and I am getting a PERFECT tune done for cruise all the way up to Atmospheric pressure.


I am in Picture Whore Mode. Was a nice evening and the color of the car stands out the best at dusk. Crappy phone pics but better then nothing...

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...booyah2021.jpg

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...ay/booyah1.jpg

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...6091949Oo1.jpg


I thought this was a cool shot but wish I could get it in a larger fromat from my cell

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...28673719_0.jpg

Roadtrip time! She's looking good!

Most definately road trip time. Thinking about putting 440 on her by heading to billings and back. Suppose to snow here on Monday(man I hate winter) but if not I am going.

Little update: Unfortunately nothing really new. I have some new parts I am gonna put under the knife this winter. I am gonna put on some poly bushings via my good friend project86. My bushings are stock and honestly I was thinking about just buying new OEM BUT I was convinced from friends that I might as well go big or go home.

I did order a new clear speedo cluster cover from Cyberstork via RHDJAPAN. That should look nice since my 21 year old plastic looks like ass.

I have ran into another exhst hic-up and am gonna re-weld a new flange on my DP. My thread is in the 2nd gen section.

Winter is here in Montana early(blows balls) and until I get this exhst system fixed and supported better I won't be driving if we get any clear days soon. 900 miles to go.............:( at least I can boost 5 psi right now WHOOP PEE! More time to tune I guess.

As for DEC/JAN projects I am looking into some new wheels and maybe some side skirts and a lip. SSR Sp-1's OR Work Meister S1's in 17''

If anyone wants my old SSR MK-IIR's by the time I want to get these new wheels, let me know. Give you a deal!!

:o16:

sean!!! when do you want those bushings? they are ready and waiting for you to "take" them :)

...last time I dont log out

huh?

Nevermind...a buddy got on my thread and inserted some interesting words to YOU all. Thank God for the EDIT button.

:rofl: I kinda figured that's what happened. I would've edited it with his e-mail addy so the hate mail could be sent

damn lol i see.

What did he say? I missed it :(

It was nothing. My buddies at work don't understand the obsession with rotaries EVEN THOUGH I try to relate it to being obsessed with the NFL. I think I will have one of them turned if he buys a used s4 t2 we found.

So another little update- Still waiting on a custom V-band for my exhaust. I have tried almost every local diesel shop and automotive performance shop in Montana and I can't find a V-band with an inside apex of .340 or higher. My DP and turbine housing flange lip width is roughly .365 combined with no angle.

I will call ATP turbo tomorrow to see if they can hook me up. I honestly miss the 3 bolt configuration lol. Hopefully my machine shop gets this "fixed" with a trick he knows of.

I have been contemplating what suspension upgrades I want to do this winter. I am looking at a pair of coilovers from BC Racing that a buddy has on his FC in town. He swears it rides better then the Tokico Blue/Tanabe GF210 set up I have(or any other strut/spring combo), I believe it since BC's are rated at 8k F/ 6k R. I need to ride in it.

I am going to install some new black poly bushings and am looking at some aftermarket sway bars BUT have been reading numerous opinions about upgrading the front bar only since the beefy rear bar brings about understeer when racing(I will be racing this pig in the future...I think :)) I am still in the air.

As for wheels I have been spying many types and really am overwhelmed to make a good decision. SSR SP-1's are awesome BUT I have loved RE Amemiya AW-7's in 17'' since forever. Work Miesters are fucking wonderful BUT if I want coilovers the Works will be a long time out haha. I think I am leaning more toward the AW-7's then painting the center gloss graphite.

Basically I am getting depressed that winter is coming and I have a 5 month stand still until WOT tuning.

Hey Sean, as far as suspension goes, I'm running the Stance C/o's in a 7/5 combo, RB front bar, NO rear bar and I get no understeer when my tires are warm. As far as ride quality, I've got my shocks set midway through the adjustment side and unless it's a washboard road or a huge pothole (I've been ejected from my seat and hit the roof before) I'd have to agree that the ride is a bit more forgiving. I hated my blues after a year or so.

I'm also running a a Torsen rear which helps out tremendously

I only upgraded my front bar, left the rear bar stock - in the few auto-x events I did years ago it performed well on the stock 185 tires - I plan to leave the stock rear sway in place for now until I finish the car and see how it reacts with a 2 way and the new Stance coilovers, but generally little rear or no rear sway is where its at. May be worth while to leave it on the car, and simply detach the end links as in some events (TT) its worth it but in tighter, lower speed events (AutoX) its not...

I HATE my blues now too! Every little bump makes me so freaking mad. My interior is noise-free, no rattles no sqeaks, I worked very hard at that because I HATE interior noise. That is the only benificial thing the blues have done for me is helped me weed out theose last few hard to find rattles.

So I imagine with a 7/5 combo AND your shocks set to full soft, it would be rather nice huh?


Thanks WE3, I was just about to post and ask why no rear bar is so popular. Any additional stresses put on the rear suspension when running no rear bar?

UPDATE: Well I found the problem with my V-band set up: It was a combination of two things: 1) I had to shave a small section of one exhaust stud on my HKS Manifold because it was hitting this new THICKER style v-band. 2) My 100$ turbo blanket was coming apart on the bottom of the turbine housing and the wire mesh that holds the fabric together was "bonded' to my turbine housing. WTF? haha

I found this all last night when I decided to remove the turbo from the manifold thinking I was going to have the cnc my turbine weld in flange. After I pulled it and removed the blanket I test fitted my old v-band clamp and it fit VERY SNUG! Then I mounted it and found the issue with the exhst stud. I have ordered a new clamp that was the original company I got with the turbo, 5 star mfg.


I think I have ran into another problem with the turbo: When I took off my Turbo inlet duct I had a good 3-4 drops of oil accumulated in my compressor inlet. I checked on the back side of the compressor ousing and only found on little 1/2'' stained "spot" on the very bottom of the housing. Also found very light amount of oil all inside the compressor housing. SO DO I need new turbo oil seals? I am running 100+ psi oil pressure with my FD regulator AND I have a reducer type oil inlet flange for the turbo. Can't be too much pressure ya think? I do have extremley high oil pressure on start up, then after it warms up it bleeds down to stock operating pressure at idle.

I have never replaced turbo oil seals so I hope it is not to involved...


I have also decided to ditch the turbo blanket and get the turbine housing cermanic coated(cost just as much for a high dollar blanket...score!)

I also have the suspenion torn apart as I speak. I have removed all bushings BUT the rear trailing arm bushings on the subframe. I dont want to drop the subframe...I am lazy plus they looked good, actually the front control arm rear busing looked GREAT. Poly is better anyway. :)
All new BLACK Energy Suspension bushings are ready to be installed once I get in my Racing Beat front Sway bar.

I am wondering if I should just upgrade the rear bar too since the front will be extremly stiff now and undoubtedly I will have understeer with the front upgrade only. ???? Any input guys?

I also purchased some 5mm spacers for my front hubs since my tires are rubbing on my Tanabe GF210's. Enough rubbing to have stripped the paint off the springs. 5mm should do the job. If my wheels don't sell I am powder coating them this January.

Thats it for now.

Just talked to Turbonetics and they said that light oil in the compressor is acceptable. I also saw on their website that oil feed restrictors are not advised. On the phone I explianed that my set up reaches 100+ psi and they then said a restirictor is needed, I have been running one since I bought the turbo.

I have not took this turbo off since the rebuild so...that means I have put about 1100 miles on the trubo with no boost except for atmospheric runs. I wonder if that is enough mileage to accumulate the amount of oil I found inside the compressor?.?.?

All my feed and drian line sizes are good, -4 an feed and -10 drain so that isn't the problem.

I wonder if I still have too high of crank case pressure with my catch can? I obvisouly havn't been in boost yet so I doubt this is the issue. hmmm?

Here are some pics of the oil I have found. I am awaiting Turbonetics technical board to tell me if it is bad AND if I can rebuild it. Apparently the ball bearing turbos have to be built by them for balancing purposes.


You can see the oil/air flow swirls on the housing and back plate. I even looked in my intercooler charge pipe off of the turbo and there is the same noticable residue/swirl.

Always something:beatdeadhorse5:

so Turbonetics contacted me and said it is ok. The problem could be from my -10AN 90 Degree fitting for my oil drian from the turbo. It is the only option I have for an angled fitting, a 45 degree fitting would cause a slight incline on the way to the front cover fitting and would result in oil pooling.

I guess I will inspect the comp housing evry now and then and see if it worsens. I have no smoke at idle and had NO SMOKE on WOT pulls on my last motor so the turbo oil seals are fine. If they are going out I will soon find ouy come WOT tuning time.

Good news BUT I am slightly annoyed that this is acceptable. I don't like leaks or "seeps" period!!

Damn Sean, that blows. I thought one of the main advantages of the BB turbo's was the LACK of seepage? I might put a call into Garrett or a few turbo rebuilders and see what their input is on the whole thing.

Well thing is it is NOT a ball bearing. Apparently it is one of the very early 62-1 Turbonetics produced. To verify all I had to do was look up the turbo oil drain flange and if I spotted a hole in the casting with "shiney metal" behind it, it was a ball bearing. Mine just had the cast iron around the entire turbo shaft. So I wonder in regards to what you said Brian if seepage is normal on normal bearing turbos??


ANOTHER CHANGE: I was going to get my turbine housing ceraminc coated but I have done some research and it seems that ceramic coating only benefits race cars since they have well ventilated engine bays to scavange heat. Ceramic coating is good for heat insulation BUT doesn't reduce engine bay temps near as much as a blanket. I on the other hand want to reduce under hood temps and that is the soul purpose of the blanket.

This Ebay Blanket I purchased last year worked AWESOME only draw back is I have to install it after I put my DP on my turbo.The reason mine went tits up was because of the constant removal/install of my downpipe really takes a toll on that fabric once it has seen high temps. PLUS constantly pushing it out of the way to make my V-band secure to the back side of my turbo fucked up the fabric around the metal eyelets. I will need to install my new blanket once I have the DP mated to the turbo. If I ever need to remove my DP I will then have to cut the safety wire used to snug to blanket down and carefully remove..........WOW that was long winded haha

Add another 110.00 to my FC deposit. Worth it though.

Yeah, small amounts of seepage and blowby is acceptable. Puddles are a bad thing though :ROFL:

Another thing to consider when ceramic coating, mainly on like a compressor housing, is that you want the thing to vent heat, not contain it.

IMHO - like you said, a blanket and some header wrap would be a lot better at reducing the underhood temps than ceramic coating. We can shoot a lazer temp probe at my mani and it will read much hotter than what your car would be doing with a blanket...... note to self - build a LIM heatshield over the winter



Thanks Sean, more work :lol:

HAHA you are welcome. Heatshield and DIY reflective tape should do the trick for your LIM. I made my own heat shield AND coated the entire lower portion of the LIM with reflective heat tape. Works wonders.

heat tape

Nice Sean! Thanks clean! Really clean.... I likey