I meant in the entire bay, not just the wheel wells ;)

We'll see how things are going when we get there.

Got the harness wrap stripped. Started to remove excess, have a lot to go.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_...223_200825.jpg

For the first 8 years or so of ownership I made it without having to pull the dash. In the last few years I've pulled it about three or four times, and I'm about to again. I'm really getting sick of it lol. And I pulled my front harness out last summer, I know your frustration lol.

Total time about 2.5-3?

Yea I pulled it the first time a few years ago when I put in new carpet. Didn't like the idea of cutting the carpet around the heater core.

Yea that's about right. Probably more towards the 3 side, but I've been taking my time and labeling as I go too.

Must label. Saves looking things up two or three times. I saw the blue tape. I either use that or a different color zip tie.

Don't forget there's going to be a bunch of wires, power and or grnd that are going to be spliced together. Like one grnd goes out to 5 different connectors.

Mike, I had a thought this morning..... how is the fuel pump wired exactly. If memory serves, it's going to take a signal from the ECU, run through the firewall side, up to the relay box, back through the resistor, back into the front harness and then connect to the rear harness and go off to the fuel pump. That wire that once powered the fuel pump, trace that back to the jump between the front are rear harness and take the front harness section of wire and run it over towards the ECU.

That can be the new trigger for the relays that will be in the trunk area.

Exaclty.

Yes, fortunately the branches are easy to identify as they used but crimps and wrapped them in blue tape. For the few circuits I've removed so far I've just gone one circuit at a time and cut it at the crimp. If that whole branch ends up getting removed so be it, but I'd rather not mistakenly remove an entire branch that needed to stay.

Ign switch sends power through the FP relay coil and to the ECU (which I assume latches to ground). Ign switch also sends power through the circuit opening relay, then through the FP relay contacts and FP resistor in parallel. From there it goes to the FP. See diagram below.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1456329802

So if I'm understanding correctly you are suggesting removing the W/R wire from connector B1-04 (connector on the relay block) and sending it over to the ECU? I have already eliminated the FP resistor circuit in the diagram. It would appear I could also eliminate the L/R wire coming off the circuit opening relay through B1-03?

*Note X-10 is the connector between front and rear harness.

Exactly

You assume correctly. It's incredibly rare for an ECU output to NOT latch to grnd. Can be confirmed in the diagram by following the ign switch back to positive.

Be careful with the circuit opening relay. I would be surprised if it didn't power more than the FP relay and resistor.

Yes, take the W/R from X-10 and move it to the ECU. In stock form the would've been positive, now it will be the relay trigger signal. When you go dual pump we can get overly fancy like I did and modify two aircraft safety switch's and a pair of SPDT toggle switch's to control the pumps independantly.

I would start at the relay block and work backwards regarding the L/R. It might be used for more than just the FP. If it's not, than what we can do is, because of the physical location of the Circuit opening relay, we can plan to use that for the lift pump, because that will be a stock pump with zero pressure and little draw, use the circuit opening relay and factory fuse in that module for the lift pump.

In that case I would use the B/LG wire that jumps between the EGI and the Circuit opening and cut the jump, find something similar in your tefzel stock and run that over to the ECU. Use the L/R as the power for the lift pump, and split the B/LG before the module to go to the dual SPDT switchs.

*Note - the switch's aren't necessary at all, although I've found them very useful. The way to wire them is the common terminal (middle) goes to the gnd side of the coil for the relay. The position that would be closed when the safety cover is closed hooks to the ECU. The other terminal (cover up, switch up) connects to gnd. **Note - this is an on (mom)-off-on switch** So you can close the cover and the ECU controls it. Flip the cover up and center the switch breaking contact. This allows pressure to be bleed off. Of flip the switch up to the mom position and prime the system. It allows you to fill the surge tank manually to avoid damage to the main pressure pump.

Logical? Sensical?

Figured.

I'll trace the wire.

Mostly. Not 100% following the SPDT switches, but I get the gist of what your saying.

Basically saying use the circuit opening relay to power the lift pump when that time comes. To do that I would cut the B/LG wire that jumps between the EGI relay and the Circuit Opening relay. Run that B/LG back to the ECU as the FP trigger. B/LG does exist in tefzel.

In that area where the PDM will be mounted, mount the two safety switches and that big Bosch Tyco Relay. Use that larger 70A relay now to power the main pressure pump. Later down the rd when you go surge tank, the wiring is already there in the form of the circuit opening relay to power the low pressure lift pump.

The switches look like this.....

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1456411066

From the ECU the signal wire gets split to both switches. (yes the switches are being used backwards as far as conventional thinking goes.) When the safety switch is closed, the wiring will be as shown above. The ECU will control the fuel pumps as intended.
However, what if you need to depressurize the fuel system? Open the switch covers and flip them to the center no contact position. Car running, signal can't get to the relays, pressure drops until it stalls.
You changed the pump or this is the first time filling the system. Fuel will be in the main tank, but not the surge tank. Turing the key and trying to start the engine will run the main pressure pump until the the lift pump fills the surge tank enough. This is very bad. Open the cover for the lift pump and flip the switch past the center mark to the momentary position which latches to ground. Lift pump fires and fills the tank. Same thing for running the main pressure pump to check for leaks or set base pressure.

It adds a whopping 10 minutes, $30 in switches and covers, but well worth it as opposed to trying to jump relays and pull relays and blah blah blah....

Sensical? Logical?

Not a lot to show, but have been making a lot of progress on the wiring tuck/relocation. I have removed all the erroneous wires that are no longer necessary and have re-routed the entire harness through the cabin. What I am doing is effectively inverting the U shape the harness originally takes out around the engine bay and sending it back through the cabin and under the bins. I will be mounting my battery in the bin, replacing the factory relay block and main fuse block with a bussman fuse/relay block (see below), and mounting the large factory fuse/relay block by the rear driver side shock tower. The entire front harness below will now be routed through the cabin and out of sight.

http://www.waytekwire.com/images/items/46345FL.gif

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1458048355

I have got the harness routed through the cabin currently and have extended all the wires that still need to go to the front (head lights, horns, turn signals, etc.). I need to extend the fuse/relay block wiring, mount the battery, and wire up the bussmann still. I have also fully deleted the air bag wiring.

I have also begun fabricating my WG recirc tubes. They are going to be really tight, but should work out nicely. Still need to finish the transition to the DP.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S...312_142332.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_...314_184422.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F...313_152448.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r...315_185135.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X...315_185142.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G...315_185704.jpg

Those welds have come a long way.

You're telling me! Looking back is pretty embarrassing now, but you gotta start somewhere. :icon_tup:

Well with the pro shops manifolds showing up looking much worse even when they half assed polish their undercut ... So I would not be embarrassed one bit!

That is very true, I can't even keep a steady bead yet.

Other than the basic mechanics of torch angle, and keeping the filler in the shield gas the biggest lesson I learned was fit up is key. Tight fit up makes a good weld. I found running beads repetitively on an aluminum sheet helpful in the beginning to get the basics, then just stick as much scrap together as you can get your hands on. Keep at it, it's a great skill to have :icon_tup:

Got a nice little care package from Glenn. Thanks for the hook up homie! Looking forward to seeing what this ECU can do.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o...6_194315-1.jpg

Oooh interesting...

I just end up with aluminum penises
:rofl:

Did you see the new lastest parts they have sent out.... it gets worse.

Haha the first thing I ever Tiged was an AL cock n ballz..:rofl:

Ain't nothing wrong with that :lol:
This was the beginning of my practice sheet. :rofl:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j...829_194532.jpg

Who we talking about?

I'll make sure and bring along the MIG to DGRR and weld that on your balls for you ... seeing as you're so proud of it and all.

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:


:rofl: :rofl:

Crap sorry for the thread Jack will continue in BAW.

Love you snookums :o13:

No need to apologize, the banter keeps it interesting during my glacial progress :rofl:

Finished mocking up the recirc pipes.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l...317_203639.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T...7_203545-1.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_...7_203909-1.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4...7_203731-1.jpg

Makes me consider dual 38's on le turbo vert.
Looks good brotha.
Decent angles on the entry too

Nice...

Does that machine have a pulse option?

Do it!
Thanks. They're not ideal, but I was worried about clearances. Still am, especially on the rear pipe. We'll see when I get up to the car next.

Thanks buddy. Yes it does, will definitely be using it when I go to finish weld them. Unfortunately that won't be for a few weeks since the car is 4.5 hrs away and I need to test fit them first :lol:

'Vert is going in soon

Yeah dude, it's like 14# of shit in a 10# bag. It's possible though, anything is possible.... like the LimeRock Pipe remember that bullshit? Had to put the turbo in with the DP attached otherwise no way to get it in.

And heat the pipes to watch them grow :lol: That was some trippy shit.

What model did you snag?

My welder? It's an Everlast PowerPro 256S.

It'll fit,
Not gonna fit, how'd you fuck that up Bri?
It'll fit, watch.......... CLAMP IT CLAMP IT CLAMP IT!!! :rofl:

It's been a while, but there has been a LOT of work going on behind the scenes. The wiring harness has taken a lot of time and is not very photo worthy, but it is more or less complete at this point. Just need to wrap it now. We got the harness fully placed and terminated, mounted, wired and tested the battery, Bussmann fuse/relay block, and disconnect switches. It was a AWESOME feeling when we hit the power and everything worked the way it was supposed to!

Small preview pic. Will try to get a finished pic when the harness is wrapped.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K...522_011832.jpg

Nice! Get er dun!

How has no one comments on the super sexy dimple dies :squint:

Thanks, we're making progress. Still have a ways to go, but the light is starting to just peak through the tunnel.

Probably because you can barely see them in the pic :lol: