Rotary Car Club - Tegheim - Home made 4 rotor Wolvo 142

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- - Tegheim - Home made 4 rotor Wolvo 142 (https://rotarycarclub.com/showthread.php?t=13475)

Actually each rotor-material costs 750SEK, and that is $90-100.
Quite cheep I think, as the HM-endmill of 10mm dia that I use for the pockets costs about the same :)

Built me an lightweight-engine today that is alot easier to get in and out of the car when i want to do some measurements :)

http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/z...d/IMAG1084.jpg

Sweet... how much power is that bad boy making? Biggest problem you'll have with that engine is termites...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tegheim (Post 176912)

It's accually kind of fucked up that we don't have aftermarket-rotors with human prising. The piston-guys could pick and choose how ever they want. I also want that without sell my mother.

I wouldn't mind selling my mother-in-law

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tegheim (Post 177557)

Actually each rotor-material costs 750SEK, and that is $90-100.

I think you're on to something here as far as selling rotors if you needed to.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tegheim (Post 177557)

Actually each rotor-material costs 750SEK, and that is $90-100.
Quite cheep I think, as the HM-endmill of 10mm dia that I use for the pockets costs about the same :)

Wow really? Thats awesome dude its probably cause you know people lol I bet if I tried to buy that it would be more than 100 bucks.

No, the materials aren't the expensive. The expensive is the time in the machine.
If I would hire myself at work, my boss would charge about 1200SEK/hour, thats about 170USD/Hour...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tegheim (Post 179879)

No, the materials aren't the expensive. The expensive is the time in the machine.
If I would hire myself at work, my boss would charge about 1200SEK/hour, thats about 170USD/Hour...

About how many hours of labor are involved in making one of your rotors? Out of curiosity, I checked what rotors cost at Mazdatrix. A new rotor from the Mazda factory for an FD costs about $700 US dollars; you can get one a little cheaper shopping different Mazda parts dealers, but that's a good reference number. If you & your boss can get the unit cost per rotor below that figure, you might have a great business opportunity here.

I don't know much hours involved, but theres a couple...
Mostly because the machine I'm working in aren't high-speed-machine.
I'm limited to 4000rpm in the spindle.

Today I worked in the wrong direction :)

http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/z...2/IMAG1206.jpg
http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/z...2/IMAG1207.jpg
http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/z...2/IMAG1208.jpg

If it all works out like you plan and it can take a beating, you should start to produce 2 and 3 rotor engines for the consumer market.

I would gladly shell out the cash for one!

I'm afraid thats never gonna happend. I think the part would be to expensive, and I don't know how to find time to do it :)

When the inspiration is blown away, I play...
http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/z...2/IMAG1233.jpg

OMG, when I see the project like this, I realise that I havn't done anything! :)
http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/z...2/IMAG1232.jpg

The new kickup is getting toghether. If they gonna be wrong, they gonna be same wrong!
http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/z...2/IMAG1250.jpg
http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/z...2/IMAG1251.jpg

^i'm not sure what's going on but i like it

AAAHHHAAAA building rear end

what you gotta do is grown your own rubber trees and make your own tires, but I'm late to the party! Wildly impressed like everyone else

This is crazy! I love it!

so, when is the deadline for this beeing done xD

pass på svenskchromet da ;)

Any updates on this beast?

Hi,

I have a few things to input into your build.

#1 Use LDR rotor recess rather than MDR. LDR requires less fuel to idle and makes more power. The only disadvantage of LDR is that it promotes higher combustion temperature and thus increased NOx emissions which is why Mazda stopped using LDR in 1985.

[EDIT] If you make your engine side ported how are you going to deal with rotor 2 and 3 having different port area to rotors 1 and 2. Sure you can port the timing angles to all match but the runners will be considerably different.

Whats MDR and LDR?

It's going to me PP :)

You mean that the combusion is not the same all over?

It refers to the shape of the combustion chamber.

LDR = Leading deep recess Good performance high emissions.
MDR = Middle deep recess Compromise to get down emissions.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pettersen (Post 202677)

It refers to the shape of the combustion chamber.

LDR = Leading deep recess Good performance high emissions.
MDR = Middle deep recess Compromise to get down emissions.

Well, I have seen too much data on this stuff so I forget most, but looking at "Recent Technology Development of High-powered Rotary Engine in Mazda", its clear that MDR design produces highest BMEP from all tested variants, especially in the top-end. Note: this is with both spark plugs. Second best was "leading flat" recess and LDR design was third as far as power goes.

With leading only ignition, leading flat was best and LDR/MDR were about the same at the top-end, LDR slightly better in midrange, but both considerably worse than leading flat variant. But the point is moot since the most people do use both spark plugs.

IIRC R26B and 13G also has MDR rotor pockets. Maybe this desing has bad name due to Renesis rotors, but their problem probably lies much more in inferior gas sealing - low dynamic compression.

Finished the lower brackets for the Coilovers.
http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/z...2/IMAG1523.jpg
http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/z...2/IMAG1522.jpg

Have changed my Cad a little. Moved the bracket 50mm to the center of the car, to gain 61.5° angle on the coil at rideheight, and 66.0° angle at full bump.

This is what it looked lite before the change.
http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/z...oilover-01.png

http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/z...oilover-01.png

Today I got the spindle-surface straightend.
To be sure that the caliper and disc are in level.
And also, to get a fine surface to attach to.

http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/z...2/IMAG1526.jpg
http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/z...2/IMAG1528.jpg

Amazing work. Really!

Amazing, I have worked with CNC in the past, but this is well over my head... Excellent build thus far! Cant wait to see it finished!!

Reminds me of designing and building fabricated uprights (and all other parts!) for our Formula SAE cars back and the University I worked at ......... so so so many hours of work and I can relate to what you are doing!@

Keep it up.

This is mind blowing! Hurry and get this done so I can buy one from you to put in my Opel GT!

This is quite the excellent build, sir!

I want to make sweet, sweet love with this build.

I may have to pick your brain in a few years about some of your engine stuff. Consider yourself warned.

I still wish I had half of the skill to do this.