Premix will make a big difference in the wear characteristics on the entire engine. I'm premixing in my tank (even though I FUCKING HATE IT WITH AN UNEQUIVICABLE PASSION) as well as using my RA adapter and 2 stroke tank. Basically I'll be running about 256:1 in the tank constantly and the OMP will inject the rest.

I've heard some ridiculous stories and and been a part of two myself, I'll tell you what I think about my super seals when I see them in a few days.

I haven't slept in 40 hours so I'm a little loopy but they look like the old style of aviation seals.

They were associated with chatter marks, HOWEVER, so are other things. I found out today actually that something to really look into would be the correct counterweights/rotor weights used.


Yeah I hear ya on the cash and the timeframe but remember (generally) Rushing takes longer and cheap costs more in the long run.



Rotary Aviation Race Springs. I believe they are $72/set


Take your time and I'm sure it will... as for the dyno, we didn't even get passed the pre-dyno compression test :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: Details in my thread so as not to jack yours. Shoot me a line if you have some questions and you also have a PM.

So I got a hold of a Dial Indicator and took some measurements on both my front and intermediate irons.

I was worried about my intermediate and actually have a 40K one on standby waiting to buy.

Here are the pics with measurements.


FRONT IRON
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w.../GARAGE077.jpg
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w.../GARAGE080.jpg
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w.../GARAGE079.jpg



GOOD SIDE OF INTERMEDIATE IRON
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w.../GARAGE078.jpg

Questionalble side of INTERMEDIATE
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w.../GARAGE081.jpg

most of the lips are .001''
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w.../GARAGE082.jpg
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w.../GARAGE084.jpg
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w.../GARAGE085.jpg

This lip was wierd...actual wear line measured less then .001'' BUT then gradually went up until .003'' goings towards the water jackets.
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w.../GARAGE083.jpg
Not to mention it looks like they were sanded down and the overall rotational pattern looks out of place??


I also measured my rotor apex seal grooves with a V Caliper.

Front rotor Apex seal spaces(all 6) above corner seal area measured: 2.02 -2.04 mm

Rear rotor and the questionable one measured on one side: 2.04-2.05mm AND the other side......: 2.15-2.18mm

Bad rear rotor, FUCK! Add that to the list.

DAMN they are out of stock!

Uh oh, I may need a set too.

What rotor are you in need of?

The rear rotor looks a little shakey as well. Not too bad though, just be careful measuring.

When it comes to apex seal slots I'm just very anal because they are the most fragile items - and if they're not supported 100% you're risking a premature failure so I always expect really good, straight and proper width slots.

Running premix over ashless "conventional" (doesn't mean conventional in the conventional sense, more along the lines of regular oil but could be conventional or synthetic) actually has increased wear. I believe the math worked out to about 1/3 less longevity of the seals when compared with regular oil. I'll post up a few links to it. Give me a sec.

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...96&postcount=9
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...3&postcount=12
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...1&postcount=14

So what do you recommend Vex? Different pre-mix or keep OMP system?

It really depends. Do you know the mode of failure with this engine (besides the obvious hardware failure--Ports, etc)? If you were having issues with pre-ignition events I would arrange to use the modified OMP to pump in two stroke directly into the combustion chamber while even throwing in a few ounces into the fuel. This will increase wear on the Apex seals slightly but should eliminate all ash deposits from forming on the rotor surfaces (assuming a clean burn of the fuel in the combustion process). If however you were having more wear problems or some seals were doing damage from increased friction I would use an extremely high grade synthetic/conventional oil with known VOA's (Virgin Oil Analysis) and UOA's (Used Oil Analysis) that show extremely low calcium or even none existent calcium deposits--and thereby having decreased sulfated ash deposits.

If you do go two stroke I highly recommend using the modified OMP because it will allow you to maintain your regular oil reserve for internal lubrication. These parts will then be protected from increased wear of the two stroke, increasing the longevity of the bearings and other wear surfaces internal of the engine. Running the modified OMP will also allow you to maintain an easy indication of the two-stroke oil level and allow proper lubrication of all the seals that see combustion.

If however you choose to stay with regular conventional/synthetic oils I would ensure you use a high grade oil and ensure that proper lubrication is being achieved for the combustion surfaces. These should hopefully be addressed while the engine is out of the car and broken down. Oil injectors, oi lines, oil cooler, oil pump, anything and everything with the oil will need to be spec'd or modified to help increase flow (this includes, but is not limited to increasing the oil pressure to help with lubrication).

So I have ordered a intermediate and front iron from Japan2La that are out of a low mileage jspec. They are being sent to BDC as well as my new rear iron to get a street port done right.

I am in the process of trying to get a new S4 TII rear rotor but can not tell for the life of me if my good front rotor is marked D or E

My rear was marked C so I assume it is D for the front BUT I WILL NOT ASSUME anything with this motor.

here is the front rotor ID
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w.../GARAGE086.jpg

AND THE BAD REAR ROTOR ID
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w.../GARAGE088.jpg


I will be putting up a for sale thread with these irons and some parts I have piled up over the years. I need cash for this build so I will let some shit go. :)

That is hard to tell..... are the etchings the same "font" for the C and the D - almost looks like they are which would make me think its a D rotor on the rear? Not to mention, it appears the "D" and the "C" from each rotor are facing the same direction where the "E" seems backwards. If not, I would assume your rear is an E rotor, but that E looks like it has a little overlap on the middle line which would not happen in general machining stamping...

Since the motor has been apart before, its hard to really know - but generally the motors I've seen are C/D combos. From what I understand, you can use C with anything but you can't jump a letter such as a B with a D, etc.

Not sure if that helps, but food for thought...

looks to me to be a C and D weight.

But yeah, too many damn stamps on those rotors. You'd think if mazda wanted to be so critical with the weighting, they'd have......hmmm.......maybe......just put weight codes on them? Instead of weight codes plus 17,000 other random, letter shaped things :lol:

Yea - 12A rotors are easier to read IMHO, mazda went crazy on later engines... my 6pt NA rotors had numerous markings on them too...

Hey Classic did you read what I actually got for measurements on the apex seal slots on the rear rotor?

Yea I saw that one of the slots was quite a bit wider..don't recall if you said it was the front or rear though. IIRC the rear was fine, but front haad one out of spec?

I guess my pic viewing micrometer needs a recalibration haha.....but yeah as long as your measurements show they're in spec, you're rockin! :)