I don't see any pics =[

Sorry, I'll take pics next time I'm up there. I have the engine about 95% together right now. I put in the oil pan, the sensors and the front cover. I have found out however that the coolant temp sensor on the S5 is not compatible with the S4 temp sensor. So i'm going to have to re-do that part of the harness. No biggie. I still have to get the pilot bearing out and replace it. Then the engine will be going back into the car for final assembly and fabrication of the turbo manifold. I do have one question before I do this however. At what location should the front Key be (or rear key for that matter) be in relation to the markings on the pulley? I have the yellow mark 90*'s from the key I believe, but I couldn't find the procedure to ensure it was accurate in the FSM portion I had with me. Any help on that front?

I also have started the process of getting the gauges installed. The oil cooler is about 90% hung, need to redrill a hole because my help can't drill straight. Once that's in place I'll be able to go ahead and start working on making some ss -10 oil lines. Should be good.

When the keyway is @ 270*, or pointing towards the exhaust ports on a 90* angle, the engine is @ TDC. There are no markings on the pulley for 0* so I made one. There is nothing in the FSM about checking the timing/pulley/hub becuase the pulleys and hubs are a matched set. They are also matched to the front cover. Basically when you start interchanging pulleys and hubs and front covers, you run into potential timing mark problems. This is something that I had never heard about until recently but Classic Auto knows all about it as well.

There's not going to be anything about it in the FSM because it's not something that can be adjusted. The hub has a key and can only go one way. The bolts for the pulley are offset, so it can only go one way. Basically there is no adjustment in there so the factory wouldn't cover any adjustment becuase, well, there is none. Mazda probably also didn't think people would be interchanging so many parts either which is why they are all slightly different. Hell, if you order a new front pulley from the dealer, you get a new hub as well.

I'm surprised that it's not more well known. A few degrees of timing is the difference between a great running engine and a pile of door stops/paperweights. I would be VERY careful with the pulley/hub/front cover combo.

I myself am using an FD pulley (no timing marks) with an RE hub and front cover. What I did was transfer marks from the RE pulley to the FD pulley and then triple check to make sure everything is on the up & up..

About the small o-rings -
the pick-up tube uses a gasket
the dowels or tension bolts don't go into the front cover so it can't be those

I'm thinking it's the two small o-rings that are under the oil-filter pedastal

Thanks TTT. I didn't know the bolts were offset and could only be put on one way. I haven't swapped any pulleys or anything so I'll double check how the pulley's are mated to the hub (While I was attempting to remove the Eccentric Bolt the rim got damaged so in order to keep things balanced I removed the rim). I think I set it up right and will be able to double check probably tomorrow when I pull the Pilot Bearing too.

For convience I marked on the hub where the Key is so I'll be able to rotate it to the exhaust ports and it will be at TDC. I'll check to see if the markings line up and then I'll either adjust the pulley's or leave 'em 'cause I got lucky.

I'll also try to snap a few pictures for everyone. Sorry I've been slacking so much on this.

these are the pics i was wanting... :D (ok, i'm done now...back to your build)

http://image.corvettefever.com/f/938...S9_engine+.jpg
http://cache.jalopnik.com/cars/asset...9%20Engine.jpg
http://jalopnik.com/5069977/zr1-in-a...engine-to-sema

Sorry, it's a little out of my pricing potential

^^ sweet!!!

haha...ok, back to your build now. will it be ready for DGRR?

Probably not. I won't even have the motor broken in by then.

You going to go to DGRR? I'm heading down early Friday...

no car. My 7 still doesn't have the engine back in, and the welder i've been using is staying pretty busy. I'd like to go, but I also need to get the car done and out of the guys garage I'm in. This project is already 1 week over my time estimate since I had to rebuild the engine.

My engine is ready to be put back in except for the stupid pilot bearing. Anyone have any tricks to get it off/out? I'm using the Advance borrow tool they have, and it's destroyed what was left in the shaft, but still left the outer race of the bearing. I have a slide hammer, but don't have the attachment. I've been able to get the bearing out twice before using the advance tool, but out of 3 hours of working with it, it hasn't budged more than a few fractions of a mm.

Engine and tranny and everything is buttoned up and ready for fabrication mockups. I may be able to start the car come the end of the week if I get delivery of a few items. However that's completely dependent on MazdaTrix who is notorious for having delayed shipping.

So were you able to get the pilot bearing tool out?

I'll keep my fingers crossed for you when you fire it up.


Side note, I bougth a home in Culpeper last month so you'll have to bring the car by when we do a rotary BBQ or something...

For sure. I got the bearing out and everything. Used a diegrinder which did the job in seconds. Spilled about 1/2-1 qrt of tranny fluid on the floor though when I was putting it all back in. I'll have to remember to fill it back up. I ran some wire for the gauges, will finish installing them soon, and hopefully get more parts I need soon. I may go to homedepot/lowes and pick up some pipe for the turbo manifold and begin construction of it.

I'm quite curious on where I should put the turbo though. I can try to fit it under the intake manifold, or I could shove it a little forward and not try to fit everything underneath the manifold... it all depends I guess. I'll toy around with the idea, and see what happens. I'm going to try to mount the turbo as close as I can to limit my construction costs with the manifold.

Lots of thought needs to go into the manifold - IE: divided, undivided, equal length, log style, etc... all play a factor in the performance of the turbo. I'd keep it close if I were you though... seems like an easier task and you dont have to worry about cracking the manifold as much.