Done with work, so back to the car. Ordered exhaust parts from Racing Beat and am in search of perforated SS tubing to build a couple of mufflers. Also in need of an S4 wiring harness which I have not been able to find as of yet.

Thanks, that was one of the suppliers that I was looking at. It comes in 24" cut lengths. I was hoping for something longer, but it would work in a pinch. Most of the manufacturers are in China, no surprise there, but shipping nixes small quantities from there. There is also a manufacturer in MI that I was going to call today.

:edit: I went ahead and ordered through them on their website. They offer 4 ft lengths as well as the 2 ft. It isn't exactly what I wanted as it is only 22ga. instead of 16 ga. and it doesn't say whether it is welded or the sure lock tubing. We'll find out when it gets here I guess. Either way I'll make it work.

Looking forward to seeing this little car, this thing should be a hoot to drive!

I'm thinking it should be Zach. I always thought the rotary and the lightweight Midget body would be the perfect match. Pushing hard to have this one at DGRR. My track record for getting a car there is less than admirable though. ;)

lol ditto

ditto......

:lol:

Which S4 harness you need? High or low imp injector harness/clips? I might have one laying around in the shop but I can't remember which it is.. I'll have to take a look lol...

Shit!, I don't remember. I had it figured out once too, but old timers disease has struck again. The engine is from a 1987 GXL.

edit: spent the day putting together a cardboard template so I can get a radiator ordered from Ron Davis Radiators. This trying to fit 10lbs of potatoes in a 5lb sack is getting a little tedious. :lol:

Here are some pictures of my primary injectors and one of my better injector clips. Somebody should be able to identify them without having to go digging again.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/702/2...dc372d28_n.jpgprimary injectors by Kevin Frank, on Flickr

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/672/2...eae68731_n.jpginjector clip 2 by Kevin Frank, on Flickr

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5716/...7aa4b168_n.jpginjector clip 1 by Kevin Frank, on Flickr

OK. Since nobody can identify whether my injectors are high or low impedence by sight, I will need to go digging to find out again. :(

I wish I would write these things down.


So, my exhaust parts showed up today.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5772/...450876c8_c.jpgexhaust parts by Kevin Frank, on Flickr


2 - 48" long straight pieces of 2"OD .120 wall tubing (The extra shorter piece is what I have left from my earlier adventures)

3 - 48" long pieces of perforated 409 SS tube (The ones in the cardboard tubes. I probably got more than I am going to need for this project, but they weren't that expensive.)

5 - 3" radius 180 degree mandrel bends (same tube as the straight pieces)

2 - 4" radius 180 degree mandrel bends (again, same tube as the straight pieces)

4 - SS Racing beat road race flanges

4 - Mild steel Racing beat road race flanges

5 - Exhaust gaskets for above flanges

The only pieces that I should need to complete the exhaust system now should be SS wool for muffler packing, more hangers, aluminum sheet for heat shielding, and SS sheet to make the muffler cases. I am not too sure that I want to total up what the exhaust system for this thing is going to end up costing. :shudders:

Looking forward to seeing how this comes out.

Your *fuel injectors* are low-impedence.

I dunno about those clips though...
The offset key is a late-87 or 1988 model harness.
I'm not an NA guy, but the offset key on a turbo FC means high-impedence.

Finding those rectangle, off-set key fuel injectors might not be easy...
If not, just clip them and use "Bosch" plugs to fit those low-impedence fuel injectors and just add a ballast resistor in the circuit.


-Ted

Thanks Mike and Ted. I figured somebody would have the answer. It is going to be a while until I get to the injectors and wiring, now that I have the money for parts. I need to get the exhaust and cooling system done before I can move on to pulling the engine again. It needs to come back out so I can get the finish welding done and wire it up.

Soooooooo.......you don't know how to work a multimeter?

That's OK, because you can weld :rofl:

Multimeter assumes that you have functional wiring which I seem to be somewhat short of, besides I'm a lazy old fart. ;)

You would be taking the impedance across the injector, so "functional" wiring would be of no consequence.

I would assume low is in the 2-3 Ohm range w/ high being ~12.

You are determined to get me side tracked aren't you? ;)

My neighbor/landlord used my multimeter to test a 200amp line going to the house. The leads didn't survive and the meter seems to have lost it's mind. I guess I really need to buy a good quality multimeter again one of these days. Any suggestions on a good one? I've had enough of the cheapies that work a time or two and then you have to throw them away.

Right now I'm trying to get my pipe bender stand fixed. Welding the crappy casters that I replaced on my wheel dollies to the stand so I can move the heavy bastage. I need it out where I can work on my perforated tubing.

Gunny - Fluke if you have a big budget. They are worth it. But hot damn do they cost an arm and a kidney. The one I use for work lists around 800. You should be able to find a decent one in the 150 to 200 range.

Good luck old man.

Thanks, I'll have to look into those, as I have never heard of them. I don't mind paying reasonable money for good tools. It pisses me off to pay a lot for something, only to find out that it is just as big of a POS as the cheap crap.

Can't miss the bright yellow cases they have on all their stuff. Even after four years of use, all mine has needed was batteries and a fuse.

As much as I love my Flukes too...
I almost never use them cause I ph33r damaging them. :P

I use my Craftsman unit a LOT.
$10 when Sears does their 50% off sales...
Cheap ass, and I don't give a shit if I throw it around.


-Ted

I would second Fluke. I have a craftsman also it's a cheap pos IMHO

I use Flukes at work which are very nice but at home I use a digital Craftsman that I've owned for many years without fault, have only had to change the battery and the fuse.

Finished cutting, fitting and tacking the inside portion of the muffler/X pipe/collector/pre-silencer (or whatever you want to call it) that fits under the transmission opening.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/701/2...ca5bfd00_z.jpgpresilencer (inside) 1 by Kevin Frank, on Flickr


https://farm1.staticflickr.com/591/2...4ab64691_z.jpgpresilencer (inside) 2 by Kevin Frank, on Flickr


https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5803/...88245f80_z.jpgpresilencer (inside) 3 by Kevin Frank, on Flickr


This needs to be finish tig'ed and wrapped in medium and coarse stainless steel wool before being enclosed in a stainless steel case. The bolts that will attach it to the rest of the exhaust system need to be tig'ed into the flange holes with the flanges sealed and tig'ed to the case. Not perfect alignment on the one leg, but pretty close. I hope that between the exhaust pulses merging and the slight angle in the wrapped case, it will cut down a little on the noise before it hits the other two mufflers. It isn't going to be a very big case (approx. 12" x 10 - 12") so I had to use a couple of other strategies to quiet things down with this one. I may be kidding myself that this will help, but it certainly can't hurt.

I'd also get a Fluke if $ was no object. But, believe it or not Harbor Freight sells a good multimeter that I haven't been able to break yet after a few years of use on the cars & home. Dirt cheap too for what you get. This is the one I got...

http://www.harborfreight.com/11-func...ity-61593.html

Interesting, the low end Fluke multimeters are in the $100 -$150 range. The cheapies are tempting. It would be nice to have a good one for a change though.

The test leads are what I usually destroy somehow. I don't know how, but every time I reach in my toolbox for a multimeter the leads are either destroyed or missing.

Good point, and the leads are probably the weakest point on the HF meter. Haven't broken them yet, but I do tend to take good care not to. I segregate my meters and more delicate test/measurement tools into their own drawer in the tool chest to avoid them getting banged around. FWIW, I'm pretty sure the HF meter leads use an industry standard jack, so you should be able to source better quality replacement leads somewhere else.

Another vote for Fluke.

I've been using my Fluke 77 for 10 years and it was a hand me down from my father who probably purchased it in the early '90s. Wouldn't trade it for any other meter.

I would have no qualms trusting an old Fluke like the one I own.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FLUKE-77-Ser...-/301780826868

... and another Fluke vote from Scott. I'm intrigued as to why so many people swear by these meters.

Had one at the club, thing put up to the most ridiculous abuse imaginable... The only thing or did not survive was being dropped in the bilge and submerged. Bought another, lasted until some asshole kicked it off the dock. It still worked for a day or two after being brought up from the deep... After that they bought the crap ones.... That I once intentionally dropped from our crane :smilielol5:

That always seems to be the problem with buying nice things. Somebody borrows them and either destroys it or conveniently forgets to return it.

I've just started with my first Rx7 build ; So I started looking for forums .(. Always like as much info as possible) & I ran across this thread read through all 13 pages ! .. && I'll say .. I'm probably more excited to see your complete build, then my own ..

I never bought one, club bought them all but after killing two in quick succussion, the allowable cost was cut by 90% from the $150 range lol

Thanks. I really need to get this thing running for DGRR in April. My poor 79 1st gen has never made it as I can't quit tearing it back apart. :( Good luck on your build, keep plugging away at it and it will get done eventually.


It would probably be OK for personal use as long as nobody "borrows" it.

One 1987 GXL RX-7 wiring harness, complete front to rear, ready for transplant into the MG.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5732/...dddcd022_z.jpgRX7 wiring harness by Kevin Frank, on Flickr


I figured I would work on this while waiting for my muffler stuff and radiator.

This is the harness that came out of the same car as the engine and transmission. I will need to do a fair amount of modification to make it work with all the MG peripherals. Considering how 40 years of previous owners have performed a Texas chainsaw massacre on my original harness, it will be necessary to replace the wiring anyway. This way I know everything matches and I get a relatively modern fusebox and connectors for everything in the car, not to mention being able to keep the cruise control and other modern refinements if I need them. This will be a street driven car, so a few creature comforts will make it more enjoyable to use.




Now on to stripping the wiring out of the MG.

I seem to have a bit of a mess.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5796/...72cfa77140.jpgwiring mess by Kevin Frank, on Flickr

Holy crap

Well, it is from an FC. :biggrinjester: