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Also cleaned up the radiator and it's brackets. Then I painted them black with VHT Epoxy paint. I wish I had found this type of spray paint a long long time ago, it's soo much tougher than anything else I've used.
This will all be powdercoated eventually, but don't have time before deals gap. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1026.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1027.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1028.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1029.jpg |
That epoxy is good stuff... I touched up some rust on my truck with it and it matches the 20yr old (now satin) paint perfectly. I also used it on chassis components like the sway bar and skid plate, etc. Really nice clean looking black without being to glossy.
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Got my 929 master cylinder. Machined the one port flat so I can use banjo bolts on both of them (to save space in the area). Then painted black of course.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1030.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1031.jpg This will keep the pedal feeling good for the BBK |
Great work and progress! Where could I find one of those check valves for the brake booster?
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Jegs has them.
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Worked on the fuel lines today. Had to get special low profile 90 degree -6 and -8 hose ends for them to clear under the fuel panel in the back.
Then I went to work on covering them so they can't rub on anything. This is all E85 safe SS fuel line. Two -6 feeds and a -8 return. Plain line: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1040.jpg Black heat shrink for protection, then labeled for future convenience, and clear adhesive tubing over the ends and labels: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1037.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1038.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1041.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1042.jpg Also made the duct for the radiator. Fits the bumper perfect, and then tapers to the radiator. the FMIC sits square in the middle of the bumper, so anything that gets around the sides goes straight to the radiator. I'll redo this later on with a single piece of aluminum. It will be easy to make now that I've got this as a template. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1045.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1046.jpg Not many front mounts of a decent size let fresh air get to the radiator :) |
I had IRP upgrade my alternator. I had dropped off my powdercoated housings last week and picked up the upgraded unit yesterday. All bolted on:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1039.jpg A few shots of it coming together: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1036.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1035.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1034.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1033.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1032.jpg Still a lot to do before deals gap though. Going to be a long week. |
When this engine is done and complete, it will deffinatly be added as a background on my computer.
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Ducting looks good, and I love the labeled lines :icon_tup: |
Thanks John,
Unfortunately this week hasn't gone very well so far though. Everything seems to be taking forever. I'm taking tomorrow off of work, and working all weekend on it. That's 3 solid days to do the following: Must do's: Make the fuel lines Make the brake lines Make the coolant lines Make the vacuum lines Mount the wastegate solenoid Mount the MAP sensor Mount the EGT sensors and signal box Relocate meth pump (duct work is now in the way) Make one more oil cooler duct Port all the piping (smooth out rough edges) Add ICV to the plenum Remove the dash, finish the new wire harness, install it, re-install the dash Add oil Add coolant Get tuned (Monday night I hope) Like to do's Add brake ducts Install BBK Make A/C lines I need to have a productive 3 days. |
best of luck the car is coming out sick cant wait to see it on the dyno!!!!
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cant wait to see the graphs of this engine! :) Good luck on your work! :)
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I feel so bad for surfing the forums right now.. Garage keeps screaming my name!
Looking good |
god damn, this is one sexy project, keep it up :)
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O lord...no lag on a rotary, especially a 3rotor = ass whoopins
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That looks amazing, def checking back here for progress!
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All nighters are synonymous with DGRR haha.
Decided to hold off on my milspec wiring job, not enough time to have it back up and working unless I cut corners. So I decided just to relocate the fuse boxes in the engine bay (the new piping is now where they used to mount. I'm also cleaning the old wiring up a lot. So it's not quite what I want, but its a huge improvement and I'll eventually redo it and tuck it all inside after DGRR. The mess: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1064.jpg Cut off: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1066.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1065.jpg Tefsil Wire: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1069.jpg New lengths added: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1067.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1070.jpg 4 to 1 adhesive shrink insulation for the uninsulated crimps: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1071.jpg 3 to 1 shrink wrap: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1072.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1073.jpg Still need to fab up a bracket to actually hold it. Also extended the fan wires in a similar fashion, as well as ran new wires for the coils. Now all I have to do is add the new clips for the injectors and extend a few sensors. |
New fuel line holder for my 3/8" SS twin feed lines, and 1/2" return line:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1062.jpg Still holds the rear brake line in place. Making the lines: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1060.jpghttp://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1059.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1061.jpg Also, a new idler pulley, ceramic ball bearing sweetness: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1063.jpg New spot for my new FPR: It's too massive to put on the firewall. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1051.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1052.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1053.jpg Custom clutch line to hide it better and save space: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1048.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1047.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1049.jpg |
Finally started it. Was troubleshooting wiring for a long time because my spark and fuel injectors weren't firing. I had decided to move the switched 12V source for my ECU to the open slot on the top right corner of the fuse box by the clutch pedal.
All my wires were checking out ok, continuity everywhere it was needed and 12V sources and grounds were good. Just no signal going to anything. Checked my crank sensor, the wires and resistance were good. Then I looked at my ECU while I was cranking and noticed the LED's turned off and it would disconnect from my computer while I cranked. So I determined it was loosing power when I went to start it. Then I remembered I had changed the switched power source. So I changed it back to where it was, which was just highjacked off of the stock fuse for the fuel pump. And bam, it fired right up. So must be the top right 12V port of the fuse box looses power when the key goes to the "Start" location. It won't really idle yet, I've got to adjust the throttle body idle screw and the new larger injector settings. But it sounds pretty good. I also need to tighten down the turbo's vband flange. Here's the video, please ignore my excited friend haha. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjr11...ature=youtu.be |
You suck... couldn't wait ONE MORE DAY!?!?!?!
Been there, done that with the wiring... did it just 2 days agao actually with the rustang that I blew the mufflers up on :smilielol5: |
Haha, just be glad, now you can come over and help me get it to idle right. Then we can rip it apart and send stuff to powdercoat and redo the wiring haha.
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:smilielol5: Wait.... didn't it JUST GET BACK TOGETHER!!!!!
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grats on start! Will be fun to see some numbers on this build :D
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Awesome project! Way to see it through, now for that startup vid....
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Started on the wiring. Moving all relay and fuse boxes to the rear bin. Also adding a fuse box and relay boxes for the ECU and auxiliary functions such as gauges, alarm, radar detector, etc...
Big piece of plastic (so I don't have to worry about using metal that could arc with any wires that get damaged (not that there should be any of those, but just in case). http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1084.jpg Trace the design, and cut: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1085.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1088.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1086.jpg Mount boxes: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1087.jpg Mount inside the car, and make sure it clears the rear bins, so they can be reinstalled. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1089.jpg The dash is out of the car, and now I'm just running all the wires and connecting everything up. My driver side door lock actuator and Viper alarm system should be in this week. I'm also going to try to hook up an actuator to the trunk latch so I can use the auxiliary on the alarm remote to open it. |
I just sold my yellow top battery to try to save some space now that my battery will be in a box in the hatch instead of in the bin.
I'm thinking about this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ODY-PC925MJT/ http://static.summitracing.com/globa...y-pc925mjt.jpg Is 380 cold cranking amps good enough for a street car? There is a cheaper version available with the same specs, but this one has a metal casing on it and better resistance to vibration (supposedly) Are there any other specs that I should pay attention to? I have a small amp and sub, but not any kind of crazy system or anything. My alternator has also been upgraded to 140amps by IRP. |
Argh, over $200 for a battery! You may want to look into the ETX..L batteries. I picked up a Deka ETX18L for less than $90. 340 advertised CCA, 18 lbs, and 6" x 3" x 8".
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Much smaller, much lighter, much lower CCA, and it cranks it totally perfectly! I recently bought a spare battery and shipped here from USA to my door it was like $150Au. You can see the size of my battery in my car build up pics, it fits in my carbon battery tray along with 3 CDI units and integral holder. I love it, its the best battery I have ever used/owned. I found out about it through a local rally champion who was using the same unit. |
Haven't had too much time to spend on the car lately, but am making some progress on the wiring.
I've got the interior stripped, and the stock harnesses just about completely modified and reinstalled. Now I've just got to add in the alarm and wiring for the ECU. New panel to hold the relay and fuse boxes in the rear bin: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1084.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1085.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1086.jpg Here you can see the new fuse box and relay boxes for the ECU and auxiliary components http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1087.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1088.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1089.jpg Best wire stripper I've ever owned. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1096.jpg New crimper for weather/metri pack type connectors, here I'm crimping terminals for the wires that go to the relay boxes that will control outputs of the ecu (fuel pumps, coil +, injector +, supercharger, exhaust cutout, etc...) http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1099.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1098.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1100.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1101.jpg |
Part of the reason why I decided to rewire the ECU: (not very tidy)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1102.jpg To tuck everything in the engine bay, I decided to put all relay and fuse boxes into the rear bin. To start, I took out the front body harness (the one that wraps from the driver side foot well, around the front of the car, and into the passenger side foot well). Identify the plugs you don't need in the engine bay and snip the wires, then snip the same wire at it's other end to delete the wire completely. For example, I'm deleting the fan relays and using my ecu to control the fans, so I snipped every wire at the relay, then I went and snipped the other end of the wires at the relay and fuse boxes and another other plugs they went to. Label each wire that you are keeping but relocating (all wires going to the relay box got an "R", all wires going to the Fuse box got an "F". There are other wires that go to the large Grey connectors next to the fuse box, I gave these all numbers. The last few wires left just run from the driver side foot well to the passenger side foot well. I labeled these all with a number as well. After snipping these off, I ended up with a driver side harness and a passenger side harness. There are barely any wires left on the passenger side. and the ones that connect to the driver will now be connected inside the car, instead of wrapping all the way around the front end. Stripped harness, being labeled and cut: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1103.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1104.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1105.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1105.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1113.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1114.jpg Everything cut except for the 6 remaining wires that just run from foot well to foot well: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1116.jpg You can see the bulk of the wires end up on the driver side: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1117.jpg Once it's in two pieces, put it back in the car and connect the remaining connectors to the fuse box by the clutch pedal and all of the other connectors down there. Once you know where all the connectors go, tape it all off so that the it all fits nicely and each wire goes where it's needed. Then remove and completely wrap it. Driver side, wrapped up. Now the wires that run to the rear of the car for the relay and fuse boxes need to be extended and wrapped. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1118.jpg This is the hardest part, now I just need to run the new wires for the ECU and alarm system. |
Finally got all of the wires into the bulkhead.
Here is the engine bay side, took a while to braid everything, everything has been left long, I won't trim it down and cover it until I have it in the engine bay. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1159.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1160.jpg Yes, that is an 8 wire braid, I surprised myself on that one haha. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1161.jpg Used almost every terminal available http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1163.jpg Here is the side that will sit inside the car. This will connect to the TEC GT ecu, plx gauges, stock gauges and indicator lights, and a few other wires on the stock body harness. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1162.jpg Now i just need to put the strain reliefs on, the Raychem, and then the connectors. Oh, and it's now wired for 8 injectors and 8 coils, just in case I ever save up for a 4 rotor haha. |
Nice job. clean wiring like that is so much easier to work with and looks hundreds of times better. Love the uniqueness of this build
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Looking good!
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1098.jpg Is that the same tool used for the weatherpack connectors? |
Yes, that's a GM/Weatherpack style crimper. That was used for the relay boxes, not the milspec bulkhead. The milspec pins are barrels that use a Deutsch style terminal. A special, expensive crimp tool is used for those (but I save $100 and got mine used on ebay for $70 and it works like a champ)
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Finally got my deutsch connectors in. Now I can finally finish the body harness and start hooking things up.
I wanted black ones, but then I cheaped out and went with the Grey, still cool though. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1164.jpg Milspec crimper, used for these connectors as well as the milspec bulkhead: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1165.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1166.jpg |
Got the firewall ready for the bulkhead today. The old hole that the wires went through it much larger than the bulkhead, so I made a filler out of steel:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1167.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1170.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1171.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1172.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1173.jpg And test fit before painting it: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1169.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1168.jpg Tomorrow the paint will be dry and I'll install it. I'm going to use 5 rivets to attach it to the firewall, but with some black silicone (Permatex "Right Stuff") between it and the firewall to seal it all up. Once thats done, I can start connecting everything up on the inside of the car, and maybe get the dash back in tomorrow if all goes well. |
Well, I'm getting there. Spent a ton of time on it this weekend, but ran into a few hickups that slowed me down a lot. (you may have seen my other threads on A/C and Tach wiring that detail my problems). I've got it sorted out now though, so full speed ahead.
I've got the firewall and ECU harnesses just about done now: Dash Harness: Connects engine harness bulkhead to dash, gauges, ECU, relays, etc... http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1194.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1193.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1198.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1192.jpg How I keep track of everything, every connector and wire is logged into my master master wiring excel file. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...g/IMG_1195.jpg The ECU harness is just about done (looks very similar to the firewall harness above. I also have the rear of the car almost complete with the relay and fuse boxes almost complete (same style with Deustch connectors. |
what kind of clear shrink is that? In the last pic it looks very thick.
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4 to 1 adhesive lined heat shrink. that's why it's so thick.
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