So after all this it was the wiring to the pump? I typically wire things the way Dave mentioned so hopefully I'll be good when that time comes.

Do you run any class w/ auto-x or just fun runs? Kind of hard to place your car in NASA, lol...

Oh no, the wiring was just the last thing. The filters were definately clogged. You could pour gas into them and nothing would come out. After cleaning them they would flow fine (when I was using the Marren washable Stainless) and I replaced the pump @ DGRR '09 and still had the problem ( a little less but it was still there and the oldf RP sounded like a dying cat), it wasn't until I replaced the filter that it went away.

The Cosmo pump was definately weak, Amp tests confirmed that AND when the pressure started falling off on Sat it only fell off 1/4 of what it did.

So LITERALLY EVERY section of the fuel system from the the cap on the fender to the return line has either been replaced or cleaned or re-wired.

I told Dave back in April that we'd get this car done just in time for me to take her apart for the winter. I was dead on accurate on that :banghead:

There are two Auto-x clubs in CT that I belong to. One puts me in SMA or Street Mod All and when I went to the second I didn't want to be in that class as it was populated entirely by STI's & Evo's completely decked out running race tires. So when I registered at the second one the conversation went like this

What car
'88 RX7
What have you done to it?
alot
like
like alot
sounds like CSP to me
ok
:rofl:

So that's what I compete in as well as the rookie class. Generally you run rookie till you win it. Seeing as how I made it to less than 10% of the events this year, I'll be back in rookie next year with a shot at winning it.

I told you to check the voltage at the pump. Glad you got it figured out, and can finally get to run it sequential, I'm really interested in seeing what it can do.

Your car is contagious, Im having a similar problem you had. I went to the track on Friday and it started misfiring, did a datalog and found out I was hitting 12.9-13.0 afr in boost. :banghead:

I just watched your autox vid, lol... "YEA" I love that reaction... car looks like a monster though I love it. It gives me a pit in my stomach though knowing how much farther I have to go on mine :( Ah well, it'll be worth it....

Finally. Sounds like you might want to upgrade that relay to something with contacts rated for a little more amperage. Something with a magnetic blow out would be nice but probably overkill.

Btw since you have a thirst for knowledge like me, the contacts arc more when they break instead of make since it will pull an arc across the air gap. Air is a semi-conductor.

I did check the voltage at the pump. The issue was though, and this is why it was so fricken hard to find, is that it was only doing it on the dyno. On the dyno we're asking it to pump out 55+psi for hours on end. What was happening was the wiring was getting warm to the touch. When I was checking voltages at home it was 1/2 a volt low. On the dyno, after constant abuse, when the wiring was warm, she was showing much lower than that.

OUCH! That's not horribly lean though. As long as you weren't making massive amounts of boost everything should be just fine. What's she doing?

:rofl: Yeah, everyone seems to mock me a little for that reaction. I shaved 4 seconds of my previous time and beat up on about 1/2 the 400+AWD cars there so I was REALLY happy with that run.
Over the winter I need to get 4 things squared away -

1) a set of dedicated race rims/tires. Looking @ RPF01 in a 17x8.5+30 with a 255/40/17 V710 and a 17x9.5 +40 with a 275/40/17 V710. That should get me some more traction.

2) Also going to do traction control as well. I found that in the higher gears I'm actually running faster. I believe becuase I'm not losing as much traction. BUT, it's a little harder to drive at the limit. I know I can get faster times. I checked the datalogs and I hit 100% throttle position ONCE! What I would love to be able to do is get the sequentials set up and be able to come out of a turn in 2nd gear and just MASH the pedal and let the MoTeC keep the ass where she should be for the most part.

3) Also on that traction control issue is a feature in the MoTeC that allows you to mash the pedal and it will stutter the igntion at the RPM where the next LOWEST gear is. So, if I'm coming into a turn, clutch in, heel-toe, as soon as the ignition stutters I know that the tranny will slide right into gear. Yes the Motec is badass!

4) 6-spd needs to be finished. The ratios in the Type R box BLOW for for auto-x. Losing a lot of torquw when shifting into 2nd. The 6-spd will tighten everything up just enough, or so I believe based on the math. I'll be able to shift into 2nd and be above 4500 rpms.

The one in there now is rated for 40A. That should be enough. Pump is only pulling ~12A

Interesting. So when the relay is run to trigger the hot, she'll arc twice, but only once when triggering the hot?

BTW Scott, any other meets before the snow starts flying? I think she's coming off the road the weekend after turkey day

So the issue went from big to small eh. Its always the small shit in the end.... Kinda like my car not running still because I don't want to drive out to Mazda Heaven just to cut the lower frame rail out of the passenger side of one of their junkyard FCs for the subframe studs. (I'm forcing myself to this weekend since my barber is ALMOST on that side of town)

longest thread on the site?

Yup. pretty much. Just worked my way backwards in terms of the fuel system. There is literally NOTHING that hasn't been replaced or cleaned at this point. Not to mention that I'm still using my buddies borrowed tank. Over the winter I need to buy a new S5 tank and straps. I've got an S5 cartridge that I'll modify for my -6 lines. I need to make a list and start a new thread after she goes into hibernation - TitaniumTT's see you @ DGRRX

I think it is. Is there anyway to check without going into each and every individual subforum? Right now this thread stands at 623 replies and 10,192 views....... damn

I has found you Brian get ready for rapeshower!

they have the site statistics set so we can freely view it.

:rofl::rofl::rofl:

Good to see ya Tyler, car look awesome btw:icon_tup:

Cum :suspect: to DGRRX damnit

Funny thing about the wiring Brian. I actually had an issue with bad mid-range hesitations back when I wired my pump hot striaght to the battery and a toggle switch(still have it AND I KNOW, BIG TIME SAFETY ISSUE IF IN A ROLL OVER, need to wire to main relay). Anyway, I was in a hurry when installing it back 3 years ago and ended up using a small 1' section of 14 gauge to connect from the battery "hot" 10 gauge to the pumps power lead. Went and slightly moved the pump wires when the FC was running and the damn thing was hot as hell and caused a big drop in fuel pressure every time i wiggled it.

Replaced with all 10 gauge wire and problem fixed. I really need to get that wiring relayed, worries me that I am setting my self up for death if God forbid an accident happens.

I want to have to figure out dates but we'll see what i can put together.

We'll be able to run a rape shower train this year if you show up...... of course we need Chris to show up again. I know Bawb is coming and I'm sure he'll be bringing the homebrew mead again. Oh the fun we can have :rofl:

That's kinda frightening a little, althoug the way you have it wired, it really doesn't matter right? In the Motec I have it set to shut the relay down 2 seconds after the engine dies. If you turn the key it will instantly fall off off. Sean, if I'm reading this right, you toggle the switch everytime you start and stop the car?