The sensors can be ordered from my site. Wannaspeed.com.

You will need to add either pigtail wiring, or the plug n play harness for the FD. I currently only have 1 pnp harness in stock, but I have ordered more and will be here in a week or so. The pigtail version requires splicing into the factory harness.

Here's a data log of this thing in action when 100% methanol comes on
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...3b/car/AIT.png

wow tyler that 500~640 transaction is huge !

When I got mine, it was tested against my modified stock sensor. As RR said, at a certain temperture area, it was 2 degress high due to lower resistance.

I added an inline resistor to compensate for this at the air temperature range which my engine sees the most in Texas. Thus for summer it is dead on and only off a little for winter.

Any chance I can get added to the waiting list? Out of stock on the website!

word of warning on these sensors for you people who actually drive your cars!

These sensors WILL fail after around 10,000km of use. Because of the exposed element and the pulsing nature of the rotary engine (and maybe the effect of over 30psi intake manifold pressure!) the sensor wires DO fatigue and break resulting in the AIT sensor going open circuit (showing -40 deg C lol) .....

I have seen this happen over 2 of these sensors now, but unlike most I do actually drive my rotary daily! and do allot of testing kilometers !!!

I have another supplier in the U.K. who sells a slightly different version of this open AIT sensor and I am doing durability trials on these across a various range of customer cars and mine as well.

Will update when we accumulate some more real world testing :)

I call bullshit on this one. I've sold over 400 of these sensors over the last 3 or so years and had only 1 sensor reported failed due to being exposed to extreme heat from a heatgun. I run 26 psi daily in my rx7 and have put steady miles on the car in the last several years. Not to mention the thousands of people that run open element gm style sensors in a wide range of high boost vehicles. I respect your knowledge pete, but knocking products to push your own is low.

wtf?

The sensors failed exactly as I described! hence I posted about it!

If you don't cover as many km's like most rotary owners then I agree you wont fatigue the wires.

It's pretty easy to see it happen, and no heat gun is needed! I can show you a computer data log showing exactly how many hours the sensor was used and the highest temperature recorded off it if you are still indoubT !

NO NEED TO BE A **** A SLUR MY FACTUAL TEST AND WARNING TO OTHERS AS BULLSHIT THANKS!!!

P.S. I don't sell the other sensors either BTW!

They will most likely fail as well in time due to being weak open element types too! There is a reason Mazda did not use these in the rotary engine and I can see why now after accumulating allot of testing hours and time and kilometers on them.

The same fatigue happens to open element EGT wires as well for your information, and no I dont sell others ether of those. Just passing on real knowledge and testing which fuck all other people do or have the ability or running cars to do so.

In the rotary engine especially the 13B-REW with its dynamic chamber intake manifold and where the AIT sensor is placed it sees large "pulses" and these over time flex the sensor wire back and forth, you need to do many km's like I stated in my first post, and I guarantee you this will fatigue the wire or wires and it will go open circuit.

I have see this happen in egt sensors and also in these AIT sensors (if you sell them or not is not my issue nor my aim to warn people@) its just that this type of sensor WILL fail in a rotary engine over time.

Typically its happened on 2 different cars at around 10,000km covered range. both 13B-REW's with stock intake manifolds and positioned sensors. Take that for what you will. The sensor tips did not fall off into the motors but one wire on each sensor was broken due to the constant flexing the exposed sensor tip is subjected to. And as I stated its a well known fact that open element EGT sensor tips suffer the same failures due to pulsations breaking wires as well.

When the sensor goes south least the motor will run rich if you have the ECU set up correctly for it.

Were the failed sensors placed in the UIM or relocated? I think most using them here have relocated it to the post-intercooler piping.

Jack

Mentioned, all in standard location.

All of these types are very flimsy compared to the stock reliable piece, you can simply touch the junction and they flex with the slightest pressure applied. Based off that the UK sourced ones will fail @ the same rate if I were to guess but you don't know until you do the testing hours. I'll report back when I do.

Saying they WILL fail at a certain mileage with your limited experience with the sensors seems presumptuous to me. You only ordered the sensor from me about a year ago, and given that I've moved over 400 of these in the last few years and have been in contact with the customers and rotary shops all around the world that have installed the sensor and have had nothing but good things to say is evidence of the quality of the sensors. See when something is deemed doomed to fail as you put it in your post then you hear bad things not good things. More people are anxious to post their negative results in using a product rather then their good results. So I'm very shocked for you to claim seeing 2 of these fail when I'm fairly certain I've had much more experience with them.

Saying something WILL fail at xx miles is a bold claim and I'm sure many members on this board can also attest to a fully functional sensors beyond those miles. Personally I put about 8k miles on my car every year so I'm beyond the point at which my sensor was supposed to fail according to you. (stock location) Must be lucky I guess. Also, it seemed to me you were in the beginning stage of selling the sensors yourself or recommending a particular source that is affiliated with you, so I thought maybe your intentions were motivated by $ signs. Anyways that's unfortunate you had such bad luck with the sensors I've never seen that before. Strange

Yes I see your points.

For me remember I have covered ~10,000km in less than a year :auto: remember daily driver. This is why I don't quote "time" it's rather what you do in that time that is much more important. Also the cycles from cold to hot, true street use all has an effect, rather than just getting in and covering 10,000km straight........... bit like rotaries passing bench tests NSU/Mazda style then failing at 1/3rd the distance when use in the real world by owners and not in a laboratory :)

Regardless, if you send me an E-Mail I will send back the failed sensor for you to see yourself on my own car, cause that is the one I can vouch for 100% myself in the time I used it and km's covered, happy to send you other matching information logging its use off the ECU as well.

The sensors them selves look o.k. (build finish etc) but the bit I don't like on any of them is how weak and flexible the "element" is, it is easy to see how it could fail in "time".

Like I said its not an attack on you or for me to sell others etc, I have no interest in that at all, just so when they do break (some rotary owners will never ever reach 10,000km or more of true daily use) then you know that at least someone else has told you what the problem is.

I do come across all kinds of similar things "that no one else has ever discovered"....... this is not the first time and def will not be the last I'd say based off experience.

(My5ABaby mentions something about not agreeing with RICE RACING conclusions here due to inadequate statistical proof. I've deleted all the discussion that does not have any direct discussion of the topic itself. Please keep replies on-topic. Thank you. -RETed )

My Triumph Daytona fast sensor is made a little different. The sensor is surrounded by a brass tube which is an extension of the brass base.
The brass tube has a few holes in it to allow a little flow of air through it.
This way the little expose sensor does not get the direct blast of air on it.
Unfortunately the place I got mine, no longer carries it. And when I search for it, I can not find it. Part # is T1900510 while dudemaaan's is # T1290510.


Got it from:

http://speedsupplies.com/partslistin...00&category=TM

Sounds like it would be much more durable :001_302:

wannaspeed.com has a few more of the sensors in

I've had no issues with quality or durability of the wannaspeed sensor in my car, but it doesn't respond as fast as I thought it would - still better than stock, so I guess that's what matters

The sensor responds pretty much immediately. If you aren't seeing quick changes in air temperature readings it's probably because the air temperature isn't changing rapidly, at least from where the sensor is reading it. In my bench testing just breathing hot air on it caused rapid changes in resistance. You might also make sure the sensor is clocked properly so the air flows through the plastic square area rather then into it. Not sure if it makes a huge difference or not but maybe.

mazda used an open element iat's on the second gen rx7's

On some other 13Bs powered cars, Mazda placed the AIT sensor in the throttle body elbow where it would not heat soak.

:dunno: Mazda is inconsistant! :confused:

As to durability, I've had my wannaspeed sensor now for about 30,000 miles. Relocated pre-throttle-body. That's close to 50,000 kilometers. Still functions as new.
I know two others who've had the sensor for a few years. No reported issues.

What size are the threads on this? 1/8 npt?

I know this might not answer your question, but they are exactly, the same size, and thread as the OEM sensors... Making them a drop in fit...


J.

I have a custom manifold that doesn't have a port yet, so I'm trying to figure out which bung to weld on.

Not sure what your set-up is, but some of us re-located it from the stock manifold to post IC/pre-throttle-body. Less heatsoak.
As for what thread size, just take it to a hardware store that carries metric and find a nut that will work. It's metric, but not pipe thread.
If I get a chance to get down to my shop I'll try to find my old OEM IAT and see what size it is...

Thread size is M10 x1,25 if my mind serves right :)

Can you link me up please? I've had a quick look but couldn't find it under sensors/switches.

Thanks

I just tried to order this and they're currently out of stock since the supplier stopped supplying the sensor

Been using one in my car, no issues.

yeah no issues for me and haven't heard of any failures from the 300+ people that have purchased them from me. I do have a new version of the sensor I've been getting. The cage as I call it at the end of the sensor is brass instead of plastic with air flow holes around it. I couldn't say if its an improvement in the design as I didn't see anything wrong with the old sensors, but in any case there has been a design change, and I am now selling the new ones.http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1353508094

are these still being sold? and can it be shipped to the netherlands :) ??

yes the sensors are still being sold. Its now the updated part. you can order from wannaspeed.com free worldwide shipping

do you stilll have one of those "older" sensor + connector for $42? just looked at the website and sells almost the same for a cazy $120 :(

I haven't had the discontinued design for $43 for quite some time. That price never included the plug n play harness and even the old design with pigtail went to $64 about 2 years ago. The new design is not $120, it's $90 shipped with pigtail or $98 shipped with plug n play harness. You probably added the pnp harness separately, there's a discount on the harness if you purchase it with the sensor as an add on. If I was selling the new sensor for $43 I would be paying people to buy the product, not really a smart thing to do in business.