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Looking good man. Great job on the mani. Looks top notch.
Time to ditch that Rtek and get a real EMS ;) I'm thinking something that starts with an "M" and ends in "otec" As for the welder, I love my Millers, both of them have served me very well. I generally only TIG AL as my MIG welds tend to look like, and have the penetration characteristics of TIG welds anyway. Not bragging, just saying my MIG welded steel > my TIG welded steel. After that start saving for a Plasma. You'll wonder how you ever lived without it. |
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As for plasma... maybe. I'm thinking when I get a house and a garage, I'll build a workshop out back and build me a waterjet. I love being an engineer. :lol: |
Well, finally got a decent air filter on the car. Went by pepboys and saw they had modular intake tubes and couplings for about 11-12 bucks a section. On top of that they had an AFM adapter for 15 bucks. So I picked that up lickity split and saved myself 100 bucks plus shipping. Granted, it's not the best quality in the world, but it's better than what I was running before... (:suspect: pillowcase:suspect:)
Talked to RTek recently about why I can't get above a specific RPM while in boost (since it's impossible for me to get above 4 grand without being in boost), and they have told me that it is extremely detrimental to run the MAP sensor for the NA in boost, and that I would need to pick up a TURBO ecu and MAP sensor and figure out the wiring to run everything proper. I'm looking more and more in to picking up a Motec, but at the same time I might be able to just pick up a Haltech/AEM and run a can bus (granted it won't be as awesome as a motec, but it does free up funds for other necessities that I would require for this project: Cannon plugs, electric AC, etc) If however I manage to find a deal or can magically afford a motec, i'm definitely going with one. The only trouble is I don't know what M series to go for. M400... M800... Just don't know... lol |
Depends in how many outputs you need. I believe the inputs are the same through out the series, the difference is in the outputs. Make a list of how many you need,
Lambda fan fuel/ignition tackh driver boost control BAC Aux inj one or two more maybe, and then start filling in the blanks on the schematic. If you run out of outputs on a 400, start with a 6 If you run out on a 600, then it's time for an 800 |
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Haltechs are cheap and reliable too ;)
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I got pulled over today for inadequet exhaust. Granted my exhaust is loud, but by no means is it loud and annoying compared to the fart cannons. In all honesty it's quieter than my stock exhaust (at idle and cruise, but not during acceleration)that I have gotten a ticket for. I've driven in front of Alexandria/Fairfax cops and haven't gotten pulled... but I did get off quite nicely because the officer cut me a break. That being said, I'm wondering if there is a way to reduce noise levels without addition of new mufflers, or spending excess money to quiet it down for city driving. |
ERECTIONmotive is also affordable and powerful :)
FWIW, I'd stay away from the AEM box, the software will make you want to blow your head off. Two words for quick and easy quieting of the exhaust: Butt plug. Works awesome for noise, is quick to install and remove, but does limit the useage of the car while its in there. IE. don't go to the track with it in. |
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What do you have now in terms of exhaust? I'm running a Magnaflow "pre-silencer" which has one 3" in and 2 2.5" outs, and then two magnaflow cans that are 2.5" in/out. My exhaust is quiet. I actually really enjoy it. She snarls when all out but VERY quiet with a nice deep note when @ idle and cruise. |
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The only one that I can find that will fit my application:
http://www.carchemistry.com/shop/ind...ct_detail&p=18 Apexi only has 90mm to 115mm, and the 90mm is 1/2in too big. |
90/25.4" = 3.5" Maybe buy a 3.5" tip from summit for ~$20?
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Yes, the car chemistry deal is exactly what I mean by butt plug :)
You can make your own though, and size your outlet to suit your needs. Some are only the size of a quarter....... |
I think the exhaust question is pretty well answered...
On the EMS though, I plan to use an E11 for now. I used to be a microtech junkie when they first came out, but they had all kinds of issues with the ignition drivers failing, etc and that drove me away. I've heard they've fixed it on the newer models - but I'm going with Haltech as its been used by a few friends of mine (even earlier e6k versions) with good luck and no troubles to speak of. I want the E11v2 few a few reasons, one being the harness and the fact that it has the additional drivers I wanted, has tons of support and R&D, I like the software, and it too works with the dash display (although I think they have their own brand now too). NOTHING agains the Motec, and I havent completely ruled it out. My issue is that I do most of my own tuning and have never played with the motec. I feel more comfortable around the haltech. Unless there are some good local rotary guys using Motec that want to sweat it out with me during my learning curve - I'll probably end up w/ Haltech. Next time we run into each other, you'll have to show me around the Motec system some more... Vex, if you go Motec, I'd like to be around during the install some and some tuning as well. You can be my guinea pig... |
I love my Power FC but then again any plug in play with the factory harness for the FC3S is a joy.
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Do you guys remember Dave Segalla? GuitarJunkie. He had this enginuous idea. He used the wastegate actuator off a set of RE twins, built a few brackets, did a few pretty trick things, and plumbed the wastegate actuator with the MAP. So whenever he went over 7.5psi, the actuator would push the little butt-plug out of the exhaust and boom, no more butt plug, ease off the gas, butt-plug. I thought it was pretty awesome. Quote:
Tuning with the Motec is a breeze. The I2 software is amazing (the data-analysis) and everything has become pretty intuitive. I never really played with the software from the E11, but the E6 stuff was kind of a joke compared the the V3 software. I never had the pleasure of using the Motec V2 stuff but the V3 is pretty powerful. It's a free download from their website as is the I2 stuff. If you want to DL the software, I'll send you my Map and a few datalogs if you want to play around a little bit. It's really amazing stuff. Dave @ KDR's first time tuning on the V3 stuff was my car. It was seemless. He loved it. |
The Haltech Plat 2000 is looking quite nice... Hmmm...
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Just when I thought I'd have time to breath and take a break from the project... My temporary radiator mount crapped out on me. (I was only planning on it holding out for the summer but it didn't even last through that)
So as it stands i'm going to need to Re-Do my radiator mounts--and I have something that even Brian will take his hat off and like. Maybe even furiously hump it... but we'll see (I noticed a very cheap TIG available through summit... I may have to drop some change on that in the not too distant future). Also today while watching the manifold construction of all the valves for a rocket we're going to be testing at work soon and will be implementing that idea soon. Maybe even the same time as the Radiator mounts. It will be different and quite nice. I'm also planning on doing a stand alone as the RTek can not be used in my vehicle and depending on how the money issue plays out that might be done this winter if not sooner. Looks like my project is never done. |
So WE3RX7 Was able to shadow me this morning while I got on the boost a little bit. He's informed me that I have blow by. Not dramatically, but enough to require my attention sooner rather than later. As such I've started sourcing out electric scavange pumps. I've narrowed it down to two I like--from the same company no less--but just need a little help in directing my efforts with one or the other.
http://www.turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pu.../Exa-Pump.html Or the http://www.turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pu...odel_Pump.html Honestly I'm leaning towards teh base bodel pump because I don't see a need to spend an additional $130. I can even get the 3/8NPT fittings to be either hardlined, ss, AN, or whatever I want. I'm thinking I might just do it this way and avoid any huge problems with the oil system anymore. This is all on top of fixing my front end and redoing the radiator mounting. Not to mention tighten up the rear end and possibly rebuild both the transmission, and diff (i'm thinking aftermarket internals or T2 internals if possible). |
So this will mean you will need to add additional oil lines essentially and reuse your existing oil return location in the rear of the pan?
I was thinking if you're going this route you'd want to plug the hole in the rear of the pan and make a new one towards the front, closer to the front cover or even in the front cover if you need to... its just the rear of the pan doesn't drain well for a turbo app and pump/no pump the location of the return is still the issue... I apologize if this is your plan already, maybe i missed that part, lol... |
Oh and your car must be louder than i thought inside, lol.. yesterday I rode behind you for a good 3-4 miles before you noticed the horn and even then I was next to you at the light :)
The jeep is easy to miss though, blends in :) |
Haha, I actually saw you out the corner of my eye, but I didn't want to look like the crazy person wiggin' out in traffic. I thought I heard a horn, but didn't think it was directed at me--so I ignored it.
My car isn't that loud. It becomes painfully apparent when I can hear other cars road noise, squeaky belts, and other things over my radio. It's also quieter than many others exhaust that I can hear over mine when they're in the opposite side of 29. As for my plan: I'm thinking of keeping access to the rear and doing a hard line to the pump, and a hard line to the same return point on the pan. It's just easier rather than drilling/tapping/welding a new piece on to the front cover. The oil pan's already tapped and welded up. This will also give me the chance of fixing all the little things while i'm there, as well as give me a chance to change my oil. I'm tired of the 10-w30. I need to go back to the 20-w50. Tomorrow should be an interesting day. I have to accomplish a few things in regards to the car. should be fun. |
:suspect: Where are these mounts that I am to hump furiously. Ya know, they do call me The Himenator
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won't start/finish them until i'm back at school
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