If I had a metal break, material, and a lot of spare time, yes. . Fortunately I don't have any of that and because it took me a while, I couldn't imagine making more.

However. . . I do have one more sheet of aluminum but just know it wouldn't be cheap.

The start of my new intake pipe, my buddy talked me into titanium. I was definitely absent minded when discussing material costs! :07: No turning back now, I already had my heart set on it. Sending to have welded tomorrow.

https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7049/2...168fcb15_c.jpg

:farley:

LOL. Overkill much?

with getting fresh air to that box, try not to overthink it. Unless the ducting you make is getting ram air from the bumper, it will probably pull most of its air from the edge of the hood and behind the headlight. Still better than engine bay air!

looks good!

Remember when testing... we were seeing 115-120deg temps in 65-70deg mountain air... You are already doing great seeing 95deg temps in 80-85deg weather, and its only going to get hotter!

Overkill, Overthink. . . Thanks I guess :uhh:

Overkill > Underkill

I meant overkill in using titanium. :driving: It will look awesome!

Awww, thats purty Zach!

Nice job.

Thanks Tim!

Progress being made with the intake pipe, should be able to pick up this week.
https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7436/2...24d8ed8a_c.jpg

https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7214/2...8cb32d89_c.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7673/2...2ba30ea5_c.jpg

It's. So. Pretty.

I've got news for you Kyle. .

Damn, nicest intake pipe I've ever seen.

Thank you!

What a great thing to wake up to hahahaha

Finished intake set-up, test drive tomorrow.

https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7460/2...97d0c26c_c.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7204/2...3a655bef_c.jpg

Looks good! Order your new clamps yet?

Why is test drive tomorrow?.... needs results bro! :willy_nilly:

get a few temp numbers:

ambient
startup and initial driving
interstate
fully heatsoaked driving

I wish you had before and after dyno nums

Not yet, I will once I'm sure everything is how I like it.

I hadn't been to sleep and I was pushing the limit to get adequate rest before work, I scho schawry :)

That's the plan :auto:

? ? ? It's not difficult to remove any of this for before nums. . .

This good?

Before Interstate (9:30):
-Ambient 82
-Bay 125
-IAT 109

Interstate (9:35):
-Ambient 83
-Bay 130
-IAT 103

After Interstate (9:40):
-Ambient 85
-Bay 127
-IAT 105

Is your IAT sensor in the top hat part for the TB?

Obviously you want to get as close as you can to ambient, but both the hat and the intake pipe are going to heat up the air a little, especially as they get soaked. Also, air right above the road is going to be hotter than what news or a thermometer will say. So, those are pretty good numbers.

Looks like the intake is doing a decent job, and you can mess around with trying to minimize any engine air, maybe temporarily taping off the opening for the washer bottle? Did you keep any fresh air ducting into the box? Another 10deg isn't going to make a HUGE power diff on a NA car, but if you are this close might as well keep optimizing.

Yes

Yep, really no way of avoiding this. . I can make it better by wrapping the header and getting a shield for the intake manifold but without either of those I'd say this is good.


Already did this by temporarily sealing gaps with masking tape.

I kept the temporary drier duct in place.

Yeah, I'm gonna play with the air feed some more. I have an idea of directing more air to the box and without capping off the brake cooling side.

Take the weatherstripping off the firewall under the hood ;)

Nice! Thank you!

And done!

Now go for a cruise and see if the heatsoaking decreases....

I'll do that tomorrow, it's bedtime now.

I don't understand.... it's 15:35

I'm a nightcrawler

You're a freaking genius mang! ! Underhood temps dropped and stayed at a consistent temp. IAT dropped as well. In the pics below I used a clock from the casa that has different channels to check temps so I mounted the sensor in the bay (just like I did yesterday) which is the *116 reading. The Ambient reading is 77/78.

Short drive before interstate
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7583/2...3779930e_c.jpg

Interstate
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7792/2...63f231fe_c.jpg

On way home
https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7572/2...3e7ae7a3_c.jpg

:rofl: Cheers!

Looks like it knocked about 10* out of the bay?

prob pretty close to the best you'll see without more insulation of the pipe from the engine/rad air... of some sort of positive pressure ducting setup going to front of bumper.

now to get it tuned!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :willy_nilly::willy_nilly::willy_nilly:

Yay! ! ! :driving:

Yeah

Placing order now for Mazdatrix's heatshield. As soon as I pick up some good wrap I cover the header too.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/pictures/c-...atshield-b.jpg

"with getting fresh air to that box, try not to overthink it." ditto ;)
I do get positive pressure with the current setup. . . with and without the rear of the brake cooling duct plugged, obviously better when plugged however I'm optimizing the flange I made that's screwed on the brake duct to direct air better so the brake duct isn't plugged.

I am only doing that because I don't want to replace the factory duct. . Is it the best? no, but it's the route I'm taking :p

Good to know about the weatherstripping. I have a vented hood so I'm guessing that will serve the same purpose. I didn't know Mazdatrix made an exhaust heat shield. Too bad it doesn't look like it'll work with my exhaust manifold so I'll have to make my own someday.

Kewl!

Come on Zac, build that ish yourself!

Negative... it works the opposite way. Removing the weatherstripping allows ambient air to get forced INTO the bay. Common misconception especially among the hondah crowd. At speed, the joint between the hood and the windshield is a high pressure area, removing the weatherstripping allows air to get forced into the bay. It then follows the path of least resistance and gets pulled through the tranny tunnel.

Stationary, sure, heat is going to rise so those ridiculous 2" gaps with spacers they add will relieve some of the heat from the bay because heat rises. However, as said before, at speed it's forcing air into the bay.

A vented hood on the other hand works in the opposite way. Assuming basic aeronautics are followed, the rise in the hood will create a bit of a low pressure zone and pull air from the bay. Of course this isn't the case on my car because the hood is ducted straight to the intercooler. The only purpose my drop vent hood serves is to keep the intercooler as chill as possible.

Last time I was @ LRP with the FC the ambient temps were about 104*. My charge temps of course were in the 300's, IAT's were about 120. Something something ram air something something vented hood something something expensive core.

Also of note.... my radiator fan literally broke to pieces that day... ripped it out (again literally with my bare hands and no tools) and got back on the track... coolant temps never got above 180* when it was 104* outside and tracking the car :D Aero can be fun!

Learn something new everyday Brian. I was sure that was a low pressure area, either way it works.

As for the heatshield. . I don't have a metal break and the fabricator I know would likely charge me ~$50 like he did for the heatshield. I also don't have that hardware that Mazdatrix uses so basically I couldn't build that for what they're charging.

Here's the latest mods. I used weatherstrip on the box and added a little scoop to the feed for the box.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...8&d=1465584441

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...6&d=1465584268

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...7&d=1465584299

I have to disagree somewhat with the illustration mainly in the rear bumper area. .

For example if one was to have shitty taillight seals, wouldn't exhaust pull into the car like any other vehicle. Like mine does LOL

Especially with the windows down if that makes s difference?