Yes, a must have, but I guess there were different batches of bearings. Lots of people are having failures within 1000 miles. I'm going to try to get a few back up bearings.

Just got 2 of these :) for a total of 680 lb/hr and one of the only in-tank pumps on the market warranteed for E85!

http://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content/...ages/11140.jpg

NM

The fruits of my labor from last weekend (I drove over 1000 miles, and moved to a new state and picked up an engine in a different state haha).
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0918.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0919.jpg

Also, made some killer progress on the throttle cable.

Bought a Lokar Midnight series cable 36" long.
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...-1000HT_NT.jpg

This has different ends than the stock cable, and also a different way to pass through the firewall. Stock has a nifty clip, and this has 2 nuts that clamp it to the firewall. The hole in the firewall is too big for the new cable (the nuts almost slip through it) so I made the stock clip fit the cable, and then clamped the nuts around it.

Stock Clip:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0920.jpg

Shortened:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0921.jpg

Enlarged hole to fit new cable:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0922.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0923.jpg

Will clip into the firewall, and then i'll go to the inside and screw the end nut on to hold it in place:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0924.jpg

Throttle body:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0925.jpg

Well, making ductwork took a lot longer than expected. Last night I got the passenger side oil cooler duct done. The rest should go a little faster now that I got the hang of it, and the driver side oil cooler will be easy because it's just the inverse of the passenger side.

I also tried to keep the number of pieces to a minimum. The sides and bottom are all one piece, then a top piece with flaps on the side comes down on top and gets riveted to it. I did it this way so that when looking at it from the outside of the car, you only see one piece with nice smooth bends instead of multiple pieces riveted together (you can't see the top piece with the rivets from outside of the car).

First, I mocked it up with cardboard. Then I laid the cardboard out on a sheet of 6061-T6 aluminum, 0.040" thick (it's white because it has a PVC backing) and traced it out:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0926.jpg

Cut it out:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0927.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0928.jpg

Mark lines to show where to bend the sides up:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0929.jpg

Bend the sides on a break:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0930.jpg

Test fit (make sure you test with the bumper on as well):
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0931.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0934.jpg

Trace out a top:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0932.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0933.jpg

Cut the top piece out (one inch longer on each side so you have ears to bend down to rivet to the side pieces:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0936.jpg

Clamp it where you want it, and then drill 3 holes on each side (through both pieces at the same time) for the rivets. I used 1/8" aluminum rivets. This is also just mocked up, I'm going to send the pieces to powdercoat (black), then rivet them together:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0937.jpg

Next up: driver side, and then radiator/intercooler ducts:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0935.jpg

Car is coming together great! Nice job on the ducting... all that cardboard and aluminum brings back memories haha

Consider using some stick on foam where the duct meets the heat exchanger. It will provide a better seal and prevent any wear from metal on metal contact. Also, your bumper looks to have a couple of openings that would be prime canidates for some brake ducts :D

I need to finish up the intercooler duct on mine soon.

You are alive! haha

Yeah, i will have some serious brake ducts :)

Stayed tuned, our intercooler setups are pretty similar. It's great because the intercooler will get fresh air, and the radiator will also get fresh air. It's like all the benefit of a Vmount, with the good looks of a front mount.

Why supercharger before the throttle body? Why not after?

Yep, Im still in Puerto Rico lol ...going on 7 months now

Exactly. Only downside is that the radiator will still get some of the heated air from after the intercooler, however with the temp difference between the AIT and water temps it is negligible. That and combined with the extra fresh air going to the radiator you will never notice it.

When I get home I will be picking up a Magnihelic differential pressure gauge and I will be using it to measure the pressures in front of and behind each heat exchanger. The greater the pressure difference, the better the cooling performance. My goal is to optimize the flow out of each cooler by creating lower pressure zones. Its not like it needs any improvement, but the engineer side of me wants to do it haha

Im looking forward to these brake ducts of yours... I have something new in the works for brakes myself ;)

I'd like to, but show me where you'd fit that arrangement.

Oh dear lord, don't get Roen started on theorizing stuff :rofl:

TTT - damn you for showing up!

RX SE7EN - So it was a fitment issue rather than preferring pre-TB over post-TB?

Bitch, what you talking about bitch.... who do you thinks doing the welding ;)


So when are you gonna bring that Insight down for a dyno ;)

I would do it just for shits and giggles.

See that whopping 17fwhp..... POS had to drop to 3rd to maintain speed on 78 :smilielol5:

Having 2 overdrive gears in a 5 speed means you can cruise in 2nd on the highway!

Unfortunately not much work got done on the car over the weekend. But it is now sitting in my new garage, ready to get some serious work done this week:

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0942.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0943.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0944.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0946.jpg

Courtesy of the official Deals Gap Service Vehicle, haha

Glad to see your FD fits nicely on a U-Haul trailer. I will be renting one for my trip down to VIR in May.

So were you officially accepted as one of the participants for the Modified Tuner Shootout? Is Brian going to help out in getting this thing tuned?

Both time's i've used a U-haul trailer i've had to pull the bumper off or it would hit the front of the trailer.

Owning a honda means you already suck at life.... owning an insight means you should just slit your wrists now ;)

Bumper was already off and it fit in the back of the Official RX7 Support Vehicle of DGRR so why bother?

:suspect:

Yup, but the thing is I need to have it running by the 15th, so I have time to drive it a little and get it tuned.

If I don't make it, they will have a substitution ready, but I'd love to go, these opportunities don't come along often.

Brian will be the one tuning it haha. I'd love to do it myself, but I don't really have time to practice on it, I'm hoping I get a good learning session out of it though.

I'm also trying to convince him to come with me and do the driving on the track. But he's pretty busy, and there is a local driver in AZ that is familiar with the course and has driven FD's before. So if Brian can't make it then I'll give that guy a call.

I wish I could do it myself, but this upcoming summer is my learning summer, so for me to go out on a track for the first time for this event, I'd lose and be a disgrace to the RX7 community haha.

Yeah, no need to pull the bumper off as it was already off haha.

It definitely needs to come off unless the angle the trailer is parked at is just right or you have a few 2x4's to ramp it up gradually.

I also took the exhaust off too, as the back of the muffler hangs pretty low and might scrape the ground as the back wheels finally go up the ramps.

It looks pretty good all together. Glad to see this project nearing completion. I want to see what it'll do. I also like seeing ducting projects, gives me some ideas.

I plan on renting a UHaul trailer to get to a track day down at VIR... I guess I will have to remove my bumper. Minor inconvenience, but not a huge deal.


Yeah... Not to say your not a good driver, but this is definitely not the type of event you want to be your first time out on a track. Hopefully you can convince Brian to go, I know he can pilot it to victory! ...and if he doesn't there will be hell to pay :rofl:

So does this mean you will be joining us this year at track events?? :driving:

You might not have to... Bring along a bunch of 4' 2x4's and you'll be able to get it up there without a problem.

:rofl:

If he ever gets the sand out of his vagina... maybe ;)
But he still needs to find some pink racing shoes and some fire retardant pantyhose....

Silly guys towing with XJs...


I fit our lowered RX3 and front splitter on a uhaul trailer with little effort, you should be ok.


Also, why would you want Brian to drive it down the track? If memory serves me correct, the last RX7 he had on the track got him too excited and the result was touching a rotor to the plate :banghead: and that was just a little twin turbo RE, not the monster twin charger REW this beast is housing...:rofl:


Sorry B, it'll be a while before you can redeem yourself and face it, we don't have much to pick on ;)

:smilielol5::lol::lol::lol::lol::smilielol5:

:rofl: Well, when you have soooooo many gears to choose from ;)

I'm sorry.... when was the last time you had a rotary on the track that made more than 1/2 of what I was making? Silly renni's :smilielol5:

I'll redeem myself with sub ambient intake temps @ DGRR

Agreed on the first point, but with gas at what it is, and actually, with what I'm paying ($1.314CAD/L for regular = $4.991 per gallon), I'm happy to get 3.5 L/100 km (67.2 mpg)

Once gas goes sub 3 again......then I'll have fun burning some rotary fumes. :sifone:

You still need to help me with my cheater RX-8 project next year......at least that's when I'm hoping to pick one up. What are the odds of a 2010 model getting down to $15k?

Got a few goodies in the mail today from one of my sponsors for the upcoming Modified Tuner Shootout. CJ Motorsports is helping me convert to E85, I can't say enough about their products and great customer service.
- CJ Motorsports dual pump holder with custom -8AN return
- dual Aeromotive Stealth 340's
- CJ Motorsports secondary and primary rails
- CJ Motorsport secondary injector spacers (for my modified LIM)

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0947.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0948.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0949.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0950.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0951.jpg

I'll be running -6 braided lines in parallel to each rail (each rail will have it's own pump). And then a -8 return line.

Here is my new fuel pressure regulator to handle all of the return flow without giving me pressure spikes: Fuel Lab 565 series
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...elab_56501.jpg

My garage is a mess due to the move, so after 2 hours of looking for a bolt the other night, I decided I better clean it up and get organized.

The biggest obstacle is the engine crane. I have an engine stand, but no adapter for a rotary. So I had to make one, this will allow me to wheel the engine into the corner on a stand, and fold up the crane. This will give me enough space to put the car on dolleys and spin it sideways and work on it in the middle of the garage with plenty of room to work on it.

Here is how to make a rotary engine adapter for a standard stand.

4 feet of home depot 1/4" thick steel 2" angle iron
A bunch of bolts and some good drill bits.
Angle grinder to cut the angle iron
Drill

Two pieces of angle iron cut, with holes drilled. These both have 3 holes on one side so you can bolt them together. One has 2 holes that bolt to the piece that came with the stand, and the other has 4 holes that bolt to the front iron on the block:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0956.jpg

Here you can see I drilled 2 new holes in the piece that came with the stand. This allows me to center the weight of the engine a little better.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0957.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0961.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0962.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0963.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0964.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0965.jpg

How much space it was taking up:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0958.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0959.jpg

Decided to tear down the long block. I've never had a stock engine before, now I know why people don't like to work on them haha. Single turbo engines are so much cleaner and easy to maintain.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0967.jpg

Pile of junk (most of it is pretty well cooked):
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0968.jpg

And since I'm ready to bolt on the water pump housing and water pump and new LIM and fuel system, I figured why not clean the block up a little:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0953.jpg

primer:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0954.jpg

Paint (I know this isn't the nicest way to do it, but i don't have much time before the shootout, and I covered everything that anyone would ever see anyways)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0955.jpg

Once I get all the other pieces powdercoated it's going to look amazing.

Had a somewhat productive weekend, although I didn't get as much done as I had wanted. Turns out i don't have the right style crimp tool to do the crimps needed for the injectors and fuel pumps. So I need to try to find a good one and order it today.

I did get the cat installed though, had to move the borla resonator back as far as I could, and then the cat fit perfectly.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0982.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0983.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0984.jpg

This will probably hurt my hp up top, but I don't think I'll have the usual negative impact of backpressure causing lag, my supercharger should offset that.

I also redid the supercharger intake pipe. For last year's deals gap I was running out of time and kept having to hack this pipe up to clear the oil fill pedelstal. I ended up still not getting it to clear and having to bash the piece with a hamer to make it clear.

Now that I've relocated the oil fil, and have the extra clearance from removing the oil fil pedestal completely, and blocking the hole off with a freeze plug, I remade the piece the way it was originally supposed to be. The dipstick was another obstacle, but I made it around it. Even ported it all on the inside for nice smooth flow:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0971.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0972.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0980.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0981.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0979.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0978.jpg


This piece was extremely complex. The clearance at the back of the supercharger was tough, and then the pipe has to curve up between the alternator and UIM to go to the turbo. Space is supper tight there, as the engine block gets in the way (the raised part on the front iron with the two bolt holes on it), as well as the secondary fuel rail being an issue. But I finally got it to work.

I also finished the primary fuel rail/vacuum block. The rail is from CJ Motorsports, and I modified it's spacers to hold my vacuum block. This vacuum block has one -6 AN bung that connects to the UIM, from here, all -4AN lines spider out to everything else (boost controller, FPR, blow off valvle, etc...), and one -6 AN line to the brake booster.

This started off as a 1 foot long 1.5" square piece of aluminum stock. All machining done by my trusty drill and sawzall and when that died i toughed it out with my hack saw haha.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0974.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0975.jpg

And the piping is done :)

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0976.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0977.jpg

who wants a twincharger kit? haha

So I assume you're nearing the end of this project, correct? I've been following the thread and this is one of those things I'd never have the guts to take on lol. Nice work and I can't wait to see it finished and see what it'll do.

Getting pretty close. The major fabrication is done. Now it's just some wiring, porting all the rough edges in the piping, making AN lines, brake lines, vacuum lines, cleaning stuff up and bolting it together.

Then a little body work on my r magic fenders too. i sure hope it works haha.

Made some decent progress today. Dropped the powdercoated alternator housing off at IRP and their alternator supplier is putting 140amp internals into it next week.

Finished my oil fill and catch can, I love it:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1005.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1006.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1007.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1008.jpg

Cleaned the brake booster up, drilled out the vacuum nipple, painted it, and installed the -6AN check valve for a much cleaner look:
Drilled, Cleaned, and Primed:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0999.jpg

Painted:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1001.jpg

-6AN check valve installed:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1002.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1003.jpg

Worked on the fuel system, manged to get the old spacers and diffusers out, and swapped in these fancy O-ring style spacers from CJ Motorsports. Using the same for the secondaries too:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0997.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0998.jpg

Out with the old and in with the new (new is the twin setup, old is the Aeromotive Tsunami). This moves me from 500whp capacity to about 700.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0990.jpg

Pics of the Hyperion fuel anti-surge cover:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0991.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_0992.jpg

Should do the trick when I finally make it to the track.

It's crunch time for deals gap, so I've been pulling some long nights during the week. The engine bay is pretty much back together.

The new LIM is installed and looking pretty, here is a side by side comparison of what I turned the stock one into:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1009.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1010.jpg

Also, here is my version of a sweet vacuum line. This is a -6AN line for the brake booster, all other lines will be -4AN. Please note that you can't just use any braided hose, it has to be rated for vacuum (not many are).

Bare hose:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1017.jpg

Raychem (deisel retardent milspec heat shrink for wire harnesses), this will make sure the SS hose never rubs through anything, and also keeps the theme by being black (using Raychem is overkill, but I have a lot of it, and this is non-name brand anyways). I had to use SS because the braided nylon hoses available are not raided for vacuum.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1019.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1018.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1020.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1021.jpg

Seal the ends with 4:1 adhesive lined heat shrink:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1022.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1023.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1024.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...C/IMG_1025.jpg

This is good prep for making the wiring harness this weekend haha.