#3

well, I need to post something. I'll be honest. I'm a little disappointed at how the exhaust turned out. They tried to mount the mufflers the way I wanted but ended up having to mount them the other way around so it wouldn't rub. I imagine given enough time and money I could make it the way I want, but I'm short on both.

I am happy to report that the car sound extremely quiet. The higher frequencies are all gone and it sounds like my exhaust is a gas powered sub woofer. The mufflers are tucked nicely, but they hang lower than stock so here's hoping I don't get pulled for exhaust again.

In other news my charging system is on the fritz. The story is that while I was driving to the shop to get the exhaust fixed up the charging system wasn't working until I took a corner faster than a regular person and stayed working for the 40 miles or so it took to get to Floyd, where it promptly stopped working right outside the shop. I tried to hunt for a lose wire when I went to pick it up but nothing seemed lose coming from the alternator to the post. I was running short of time so I just left the car there and said fix the charging issues for me.

I wait to hear back from him on what it was. I'm thinking it was just a loose line somewhere, but we'll see.

I dunno. #3 seems too sharp for my tastes... I'll see what I can come up with.

In the end I may just save some money and end up taking it up to Brian's to get everything the way I want it... but we'll see.

If you're going to paint them black, try to find some non-ss 304 tips.. easier to paint and would cost less. I wouldn't worry about the tips being shiny though, if they are larger than 3", than yea..maybe, but otherwise, most every new car has 2.5-3" polished exhaust anyway. LEOs just don't want to see the cans hanging way down and a loud note, thats what gets the attention.

Where did you get the work done? Back in blacksburg or near culpeper?

Pics or it didn't happen, lol....

I hear ya on that note, but I'm a stainless whore. The entire system is stainless, from the V-band adapter to the hangers. It's all stainless, why cheap out on the tips? :lol:Well.. I don't think the loud note is going to get me and the cans aren't hanging way down. It's just the amount of muffling devices I have in the car are rather big so they peak out from under the car a little. I think the only way to remedy it is to actually redo the down pipe, re orient the RB pre-silencer and shift it forward, bringing the 1-2 muffler forward and running new 2.5in pipes to the cans mounted the way I want. It's the only way I can think of doing it... which might mean I need to redo the turbo manifold to mount the wastegate a little better.
Near Blacksburg. Honestly the mechanic is not at fault in this. I recommend his shop to anyone and everyone that wants good work done for a fair price. It just wasn't in the price range for a complete exhaust overhaul.
I'll get pics as soon as I get the car back. Apparently it was the alternator. The cool thing is the mechanic is able to replace it under warranty, so I get a nice new alternator for free! w00t. I'll also need to order the parts for the FD alt I have sitting in pieces on my desk. I'm tired of not having enough amps.

I've also started working on the base map for the EMS. I'm taking the base map from the Sprint EMS and upping the resolution and applying a correction percentage for my injector size (more details on how I'm doing that in the tuning section if you're curious).

So I got my car back, and have been driving it for a few days. Went to top off some fluids and found this:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...r/IMG00161.jpg

So I'll be getting a new one under warranty, just have to make the phone call.

Sigh...


As for the exhaust it's really quiet. It doesn't start to become really audible until maybe 3000 RPM and I should be pulling exhaust db data for it sometime this upcoming week.

When you get the new alternator don't forget the spacer on the back side or it will do the same thing when the mounting bolt gets tightened it appears to be missing in that pic.

Yup, the spacer is gone. I think the guy I took it too had one of his techs do this job because he wouldn't make this sort of mistake. When I went to take out the alternator I noticed not only was the spacer missing by the nut on the back was gone too. I'll be having some words to bring this to my mechanics attention. Not only that but to get by without using the spacer the tech shoved the alternator in to a press and backed out the insert to take the space of the spacer. I am not amused. I'm fairly certain that those two things (the press and lack of spacer) that caused the alternator to crack.

So I pulled the turbo today to get it ready for some hard lines :)... but I ended up buying the wrong NPT to -AN adapter from summit. Looks like I have to go out and buy a new one, a spacer, and a flanged nut to get everything back together right. I also need to install my scavenge pump that's been sitting on my desk for a good year or so.

Turbo's getting re-installed tomorrow and hard lines will be bent and prepped for mounting.

So I didn't re-install the turbo like I said I would. I slacked. But I am still on the move to get things going. In particular; look what came in the mail today!

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...U/IMG00172.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...U/IMG00171.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...U/IMG00173.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...U/IMG00174.jpg

After years of digging, asking questions, and finally figuring it all out, I went ahead and bout me a cannon plug. I even have the Daniels crimp that I need to ensure proper crimping on the sockets and pins.

Now the question I must answer is where is the best location for the ECU to be mounted? I was thinking in the glove box for easy access to the usb port on the ECU. So... any thoughts on this?

Glove box for sure. I plan to mount mine in there as well.

Are you concerned with theft?

Lol.. no. Mine isnt a street car though....

Hmmm... I may just be paranoid.

TTT, when you get a chance would you mind telling me what heat shrink you used on your electrical connections? I'll need a 1.25 in of the cannon plugs to be heat shrinked and the stuff I've found local is really stiff which makes it almost unusable for the application I intend.


Edit: WE3RX7-- maybe this might be worthwhile for us?

http://www.google.com/products/catal...=0CIQBEPICMAI#

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/pub...7IW_ZV3lgH1LC-

or even

http://www.google.com/products/catal...=0CJ8BEPMCMAk#

Use that patch cable and mount it in the stock ECU position.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1268317059

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1268317967

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1269927280