Man BDC's set-up looks crazy! :)

I feel you Brian on the minor difference probably between 13.0:1 and 13.5:1 EGTs. Wish we had some longer tuning timeline from old school owners on ALOT of rotary tuning mysteries. Damn V8 guys have so so much background information in regards to tip's n tricks and super secret power makers lol

Actually, the V8 tricks are more recipes than tricks (ask me, piston engines is where I cut my teeth). The general principles are identical for piston engines and rotary engines.

The availability of aftermarket parts for Chevy, Dodge and Ford V8s is what really makes them shine.

Still, 100 Hp/Liter is difficult for V8s too (my rotary achieved that with all stock components).

Rules of thumb are lacking in the rotary world, if I had been taking a 350 SBC to the dyno, I would have set the AFR to 13:0, the timing to 38 degrees BTDC above 3000 rpm (inertial advance below that) and taken it to see what it made. I might have tweaked the timing a couple of degrees and moved 0.2 AFR in either direction, but there would have very few power gains.

Interesting enough, my rotary made peak power at 13:1 AFR and 38 degrees BTDC timing (kinda strange, huh). If took a lot more adjustment and tuning to get there though, as I started with way too much timing (my ear told me it was better) and way too much fuel (12:1).

Well now I know what auxiliary injection is. We call it chemical cooling. Nowadays, typically NOS or methanol (even water) is sprayed on the intercooler. Some people actually inject the NOS into the intake air (wet kit, obviously) and mix insane quantities of fuel with it (which cools the charge air significantly). I see this relatively frequently on high-boost turbocharged or supercharged piston engines (although less these days with the availability of good intercoolers).

With diesels, they use wet propane kits to achieve additional charge density and more fuel. This comes at a cost though, as the engine now has fuel in the intake air, introducing the chance of detonation (or pre-ignition, actually).

Years back, people with too high of compression ratios would use water injection kits in the intake to cool the charge (they were a lot of trouble though, as the engine could rust if they were used to recently before shutdown).

edit:

I have to explain my problems with the secondary injectors:

What bothers me about them is that the air must go around a turn after the fuel has been injected into it. This causes the fuel to tend to fall out of the air as the fuel droplets are heavy and the air molecules are not nearly as much so. The inertia of the fuel drags it out of the air stream (which avoids the wall due to sonic reflections and other boundary layer effects) Thus, there is always a 'puddle' of fuel laying at the outside of the turn. This makes the fueling much less precise, especially during throttle transitions.

The ideal injection situation is where the fuel is injected into the air such that it is aimed at the inside of the turn, making the combined splash and boundary effects mix the air and fuel effectively. If the secondary injectors were mounted in the end plate so that the fan from them hit on the inside of the secondary port, I think the fuel mixing (uniformity of the fuel charge) would be better.

On piston engines, they cured these problems with rich-running carbs, heated intake manifolds and low compression ratios (pre-ignition not an issue). Now that they have port injection, they do not need heated intake manifolds, etc. as the fuel is spraying on the inside of the turn going into the intake valve.

I think i busted a nut.....

LOL, I just realized we went the same route with the fittings. Even though my car is red, something just irked me about having red and blue (contrasting colors) AN fittings in, and around, my bay and I got a shit-ton of black fittings. I've gone the braided nylon hose route though.

Lets see if Mazda lets me link directly to their jazz.

NoDOHC, how about beating Mazda to the punch with their injector setup on the 16x instead?
http://www.mazdarxsource.com/mazda-1...a-16x-side.jpg

+1! I greatly dislike the red/blue combo as well. When I start building my car, it will be all black fittings.

How is it working out? I thought about using that too (for it's sleeper-ness), but I don't have any info on how it would hold up compared to SS braided lines to pressure and temperature.

Its rated for up to 350psi and 300 degrees. I've seen an MR-2 in person that seemed to have no problems running all nylon lines. It's not a rotary but I'd be worried about other things if any of my hoses had to deal with 300 degree fluids, LOL.

I took a pic of it, lemme find it....
http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._3378915_n.jpg

http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._4060562_n.jpg

Hmmm guess I should have used flash, lol. Sorry you can maybe see but TWO of the lines in that pic.

:rofl: Thanks

:icon_tup: I HATE those fricken red and blue ones. I have one left on the intake mani for the vac line to the brake booster and I painted that one. They drive me insane. I am so far liking the black nylon braided ones. More flexible, easier to assemble, and cheaper too I believe.

Ahhhh, direct injection. That's the first thing I thought of when he mentioned his new placement for the injectors. but then the rechroming machining etc etc involved would really suck so I guess the next best thing would be the plates. I think it'll be difficult but doable non-the-less. Then again anything is with enough $$$$ tossed at it. Like a 40B for example :rolleyes:

I love em. Using them for fuel, coolant, and oil. No complaints whatsoever thus far. The fittings themselves though, I bought the Jegs ones, and have had to replace one already, and one is starting to piss me off.... the one on top of the fuel filter too so it's always getting undone. The retaining wire gets hung-up making it very difficult to thread it on by hand.

That is sexy. I agree, if you're looking at 300* temps, there are other things to be worried about. Under the hood shouldn't get that hot either.

I got majority Earl's fittings. I have two summit AN to NPT adapters and a Summit -8 plug (which I replaced with an Earl's -8 plug because Summit fails to mention that their plug has a threaded hole in the middle of it... thus NOT making it a "PLUG" unless you put yet another plug in it! :icon_no2:)

pfffffffffffftttt!!!! HAAHAHAHAA :rofl: haahahahaaa :lol: haahahaahahhahhaa:lol2:

Leave it to Summit. If I had to do it over again I would have gone with Earls or Aeromotive or some other name brand. My logic was I know Jegs isn't casting them, they're buying them from somebody and slapping thier name on them. I don't know who though. FWIW, the summit brand of fittings is the same as the Jegs. I just wish I knew who was casting them

The 20th works out better for me anyway. What time do you think you'll be getting there?

I'm hoping by 10/ Honestly though there's a ton of cleanup in the map that needs to be done up high in the boost. We need to do this because the last fuel filter was clogging as we were tuning, so we were dumping fuel in because we were lacking flow. Now everythings pigassstink rich. By mid afternoon though we should be shooting for the big numbers and playing with the sequentials.

Any word on the analysis of the crap clogging your fuel system?

Nothing back from the lab yet............ that might be becuase I didn't send it out yet though :rofl: Only now I have 2 filters to send out.

Antman showed again today and got to see the big numbers :D

402.77RWHP @ 13.75lbs of boost running .85L. In Daves words, we didn't tune for it, but she gave it to us

Got her strapped down and we rocked through the cleanup then on one pull she went a skoche lean on the top. Nothing alarming, but enough to raise an eyebrow. So we decided to smoke a cig and let her cool for 10 minutes and then go for the big un. On our break I mentioned that we should check the FPSI again as that last run kinda concerned me. Dave agreed and when we checked the logs, the PSI dropped off again towards the top - MOTHERFUCKER!!!!!!!!!!! I've got the FPSI displayed onthe dash and after each and every run Dave would take a peek and they would ALWAYS go right back to 36psi, right where they should be, just isn't flowing enough up high though.

So we wheeled her forward, up on the lift and 10 minutes later the new filter was in, I never leave home without one now, how eff'ed up is that. Blowing through this was was laborius but not like the last one. The last one also was allowing 38psi through and the one today let 45psi though. So with the new filter in we strapped her back down, made a pull, cleaned a few things up, made another pull and on the 2nd pull with the NEW FILTER IN the psi dropped off again to 49psi when it should be at 55psi. So, I'm going to pull the pump, send that out, replace the sock, get the filters tested, and sleep in my garage with a loaded 12ga semi-auto Benelli and my German Shepard. Dave is convinced someone is pouring shit in my tank.

So it was bittersweet.... there were no congrats, no hi-fives, no bottle of Single Barrell Jack to be passed around just pissed off even though we broke 400hp on a set of stock REW twins, with another pound to add. I think that's a record though. I know there was a guy in jersey with a white FD, running a 1/2 bridge or full bridge making 402 but pushing 18 psi. The turbo's lasted 300 miles IIRC. We're happy, but not at the end just yet.... DAMNIT. And we REALLY want to play with the twins. We're using duty cycle control, like 50% across the board but the solenoid doesn't activate until 120kpa, so every time we up the boost, we're upping it across the board. On the drive home tonight I broke the tires loose in 2nd around 5500rpm with 3/4 throttle. The girl is PEPPY!

On the plus side I finally got a fast reacting AIT sensor from Motec installed. I wanted to get the one from dudemann but without knowing the calibration table, it was unknown if it would work. Regardless... when boost hits the AIT on the charge pipe pre-intercooler go from 108*F to 245*F and the AIT going into the engine go from 77.2*F to 80.6* :D That was on the 403RWHP run.... SICK!

Congratulations!

You made the 400 WHp without ever getting to your max of 15 psi.

Maybe that will encourage more people to tune a little closer to the edge.

I am sorry about your dirty fuel issues, maybe you should pull the tank and replace it with a fuel cell or something. (A good cleaning may be the ticket).

Maybe you could disconnect the Fuel fill tube and cap the tank when it is in the garage, so that anything that the neighbor puts in the fill will fall on the ground and not in the tank.

Where did you find such a good intercooler? I don't know what your ambient temperature was, but 245 F to 80.6 F? That is amazing. You are still running the V mount? Maybe standard front mount intercoolers heat soak from the radiator or something, because I have never seen an intercooler that effective (except for maybe on a 20 F day, which I doubt if the no-boost-temperature was in the 100s).