Rotary Car Club - My mechanical preturbo water injection

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- - My mechanical preturbo water injection (https://rotarycarclub.com/showthread.php?t=8950)

Hey,

Did you ever end up trying to run that inline adjustable check valve? Or did you nix it since you'd need a higher flowing nozzle?

Thanks...

Quote:

Originally Posted by dudemaaan (Post 98871)

Just universal aluminum piping 2 1/2". I welded them all myself and saved money that way. Make sure to get T bolt clamps to hold the couplers in place, regular hose clamps suck. Pick the most direct route to reduce bends and increase response.

drewrey2004,

One other thing mate, If you can't afford the "T" clamps. Just add a couple of lips on the ends of the pipe so the hose clamps don't slip of as it is very effective.

On a side note with regards to the air temps you are seeing. waters latent heat of evaporation is of course at 100 degrees Celsius so taking into account your high air temps you would actually be getting the water to vaporize a lot sooner. It still sounds like an unsafe condition and I would not care much to be a guinea pig trying something like that out... Better to invest now rather than when your motor needs to be rebuild.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flash (Post 212109)

Hey,

Did you ever end up trying to run that inline adjustable check valve? Or did you nix it since you'd need a higher flowing nozzle?

Thanks...

No I scrapped that idea. Since the adjustable check valve has a spring that restricts the flow the water pressure would be reduced by whatever amount it was set to. That would not only reduce my total water flow but also reduce the atomization. If the valve was set to 8 psi and Im running 28 psi of boost pressure my effective water pressure would then only be 20 psi.