Yep! I wouldn't have been upset as long as things were taken care of. I would have been ok but now I have to take care of it myself at my own expense :o10:

If you woulda parked it right my white truck wouldn't have hit it.....

Ouch! I always park in end spaces, at the far end from the store. Keeps the goofs from
making you a target.

I do that at Wal Mart on the rare event I'm there but I guess I should practice this everywhere.

I removed the bumper this morning and gave it to a painter, should have it back by end of this week :)

I would swear that the scumbags do it on purpose. Take an old beater into the jungle of the WalMart parking lot on payday and not a scratch. Take a nice car with shiny paint and you will be lucky if it is still able to be towed. They are evidently illiterate in addition to being utter incompetents behind the wheel, because the only note you will receive is one cussing you out for being in their way.

... in broken English of course.

:rofl: :smilielol5:

Sad looking car :icon_no2:
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1442981437

srory about the bumper, who's painting it?

A friend of mine that does refinishing and detailing.

Car is back to normal, buddy did an outstanding job.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/680/22...d5a4f73d_c.jpg

Now that the car is tuned and I shouldn't have to worry with removing/replacing the plugs anytime in the near future, I finally got around to installing Rice Racing's COP kit. Because my engine isn't an REW I had to make my own mount since S4 & S5 engines don't have the M6x1.0 mount casted into the center iron. I also had to remove some material on the coil side of the adapters to achieve a secure fit on the coil terminals, without doing so the adapter would not click into place.

Here's the test fit after modifying the adapters to accept my coils.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/572/22...e2375ae2_c.jpg

My homemade mount that works surprisingly well! It reaches up from the front stud/nut on the L/S engine mount with a 6x1.0mm threaded hole up top to secure the coil mount. I may fab up a steel version but that may not be necessary.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/758/22...9ddfce3f_c.jpg

The COP adapters look good! I remember you said you had some issues with them. Is everything still working as normal? I'm kicking myself now for not buying the brackets as well. I've done some mock-ups and making my own is going to be a pain wuth no access to a welder or machining tools.

So far everything is working great and without any issues like before. It was important that I removed excess material from the adapters on the coil side since that prohibited them from seating completely on my coils. Because of that, it threw everything off.

I remember Rice mentioning that the ing1a coil was a "dogshit" design (paraphrasing but that sounds like a Rice quote) :) that varys from one manufacturer to the other (which is probably one reason for his continued production on the CDI kits and not the ING1A style) I didn't believe that but it must be true considering the fitment issue. Either way it's OK now and looks better than how I had it which was nowhere near close to the intended use of the design.

When you say you had remove excess material did you make the opening larger? I really haven't messed around with mine too much so I don't know where possible interference might be. I think what Rice was getting at is that there's a good amount of variability in the coil external dimensions. Not that big of a deal, IMO.

Yes its true, they are a 'dog shit' coil thus why I don't offer this COP system anymore.
The M&W COP system is far superior and I do many of those, far less variability in those coils and IMHO its the only ignition system that works on a high power rotary anyway.

Good to see you proved they fit LHD vehicle too ;)

Not diameter but depth, originally was too shallow so the detent in the adapter never contacted the coil end in the correct spot.

Yep, it's a close to the steering joint but there's enough room.

Zach your car is getting too sexy! Next you will be bringing it to events on a trailer. LOL

Thank you! :D It'll be driven like it should :auto:

It's been a while but there hasn't been much of anything new up until Deals Gap. .

Since getting the everything together and running with only a little bit of tuning, I realized that more needed to be done (tuning wise) since destroying an expensive set of iridium plugs at the last B3R and making peoples eyes water on the way to this years DGRR as well as burn through what seemed like an excessive amount of gas especially when compared to when I was carbed. Much progress has been made! :hurray:

Like most people before the Gap, there are those last minute projects you do and mine was to get the sled all shiny (the day before). I called my detailer friend who has done all my repairs and luckily he filled me in.
https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7317/2...b3fb01bb_z.jpg

Thanks to project86 for these sweet pix :)
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7577/...005c565e_b.jpg

Mel said she was keeping her distance since my car was so stinky :(
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7678/...22739e40_b.jpg

All the hard work paid off and I am very proud that I won a plaque in the Best FC class, the competition was stiff so this means a lot to me :cheers2:
https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7583/2...04ff629f_z.jpg

During down time at DGRR, with the help of TitaniumTT and FerociousP, we were able to make some big improvements to the tune. Big thanks to you guys as well as My5ABaby for letting me use your laptop!

While on one of the rides with Paul making changes to the tune, he noticed high IATs (120*) and recommended making some type of shield for the filter which was a plan before the Gap but there just wasn't enough time.

Since DGRR I have been brainstorming and making mods for denser/cooler airflow to the intake. At first I considered running a filter into the bumper area under the headlight but with the windshield washer bottle there isn't a lot of room to work with and on top of that I got to thinking that having the filter in such a hard-to-reach area will make future servicing a PITA.

What I decided to do was bring fresh air to the engine bay where I'll have an isolated filter, That's the plan at least. .

Here's a couple of AFM adapters I trimmed down to use as adapters, you'll see what for in a sec. .
https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7093/2...dd8a82e5_z.jpg

After drilling a BIG ass hole in the brake cooling duct, I took one of the adapters and attached it there. You can see Sharpie marking behind the headlight where another big hole needs to be made. .
https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7231/2...80b0e7ed_z.jpg

This hole was a PITA since there wasn't any material for the pilot bit to drill into so I had to dremel this out.
https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7288/2...187b6317_z.jpg

I wanted it as close to the headlight motor as possible so I installed it from within the bay and notched the flange to make this possible
https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7326/2...7bd2e168_z.jpg

Till I get my hands on some silicone brake cooling duct I used a section of dryer duck to test fitment, here's a view of the cramped space with the light up.
https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7108/2...a03b295f_z.jpg

And down! now to make a heat barrier for the filter.
https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7622/2...e605ebec_z.jpg

Using a profile gauge I made this, once I get some metal and have it mounted, I eventually plan to box it up and possibly insulate it with some type of heat wrap.
https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8716/2...b690e32b_z.jpg

Yeah! I had so much fun taking pics at DGRR. BY THE WAY....where did you get that sweet protecting plastic you have on your bumper and fender? Im excited to see how the intake duct an shield comes out and to see what difference it make in AITs

From work, it's excess cut from a larger roll that Jeff snagged for me.

Me too!

Well if you ever come across more excess id love to have some for future use!

Sure, I'll find you some!

You can try adhesive shelf liner...
You can get it from almost any big box store - i.e. WalMart.
Since this stuff is made for permanent use, I would highly suggest waxing the area before applying this stuff.

For the OP:
That dryer duct will not last.
I tried really expensive silicone ducting with the metal spring in it, and that didn't last!
The spring came away from the silicone part, and all of it collapsed.
If you feel adventurous, try custom fiberglass?
Also, Pegasus Racing sells plastic (ABS?) ducts like that, so you can get rid of the heavy, metal adapter thingy that you cut down... :)


-Ted

Does it need to be a duct to move out of the way of the headlight?

Why not a "Kustom" AL pipe connecting those two flanges?

Hey Zac, looks great man! Digging it it. I would like to see where you ended up with the timing and I definitely want to know what she ended up making for power on the dyno when all is said and done.

Your Ambient Air Intake system - Love it and especially the use of that profile gauge to get started.... going to need to go buy a bigger one of those. When you're done with the sheet metal work what you can do is take some silicone vac line and slit it open and apply to the surface that's going to be nexto to the paint... protection and all

The only thing that I see may be an issue is going to be the air feed from the brake duct opening. I don't think it will force much if any air from the brake duct to the air filter location. It might even create a small vacuum. I would suggest, as Ted has, to take a peek at Pegasus racing and try to find some ducts that you could split off of to feed both the brakes and the air filter.

I'm doing something very similar with my FC right now. Taking two of their dual outlet ducts and using one to cool the oil coolers, and the other is going to the brakes. :cheers2:

Yeah, it's just temporary. Thanks for the heads up on the silicone ducting, that's what I was going to use. .

Ha ha that's just a weight weenie idea right there. . the aluminum adapters don't weigh much plus they're stronger ;) thanks though

This is what I was thinking but haven't tested for clearance yet, I just thought the silicone brake duct would be more than sufficient but from Ted's experiences I guess not. I'll try aluminum pipe next, worst that could happen is I have to notch a little out where the (edit) frame (not plastic trim) of the headlight comes down.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7622/2...7f963962_z.jpg

Carbon Tubes!

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...on+fiber+tubes


Made a few Fly Rod/Fishing Pole Rack Cases with some.

Thanks, I'm pretty stoked to see the results too! Not sure when Ludwig comes to town again but when he's here he can make changes if needed while on the dyno

Yeah, I would like to find a larger gauge. I have the typical 6" gauge, which works but I had to do about four or more overlapping segments to help keep the shape. I like the vac hose idea. I was thinking about that yesterday but was worried the thickness of the hose would be an issue.

I'm glad you mentioned this as it is a worry of mine and I wanted someone else to mention it before planting it in anyone's head at first. To test for any difference I'll monitor IATs with and without the back opening of the OE brake duct blocked off. If I have a difference, which I'm sure there will be I may look into the Pegasus duct inlet Ted mentioned. . We'll see.

Definitely following. This is something I'll need to figure out in the future as well. I'm hoping my vented hood will keep some of the under-hood temperatures down though.

A couple weeks ago I did a little test drive to see if the cooling duct made much (if any) difference to IAT. At DGRR we recorded a little over 120 and with this hole added I noticed a drop of 25 degrees! It's not the best comparison since I don't remember what the ambient temp was in NC as compared to home. That, and I drove on the interstate compared to mountain roads in NC so I'm not certain about it all just yet but regardless there will be some improvement.
https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7014/2...5915ce55_c.jpg

I prepped the aluminum sheet, doing as much as I possibly could by drawing a line with my cardboard stencil and cutting it. I didn't have any friends with a metal break so Friday I was able to get this to a fabricator to bend/trim and cut a 3.5" hole for me.
https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7577/2...1f349bc1_c.jpg

Once bent I was able to get it in the bay where I filed away extra material till I was happy with the fitment. To help prevent scratches I added tape till I was finished since I installed and removed this many many times!
https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7051/2...9be75a3f_c.jpg

I made some small 90 degree mounting tabs that I riveted in place. The three holes that I made the tabs for are factory holes. Only one of the three holes was threaded so for the other two I added 5mm RivNuts.

and as for this:
I looked around at the local Advance and told the guy what I was wanting to do and he handed me a pack of clear trim guard with adhesive made for door edges. I hadn't thought of this and was going to go the vac hose route but this seemed too brilliant to pass up and worked quite well since the embedded adhesive kept it in place. . . well except for the one spot where the rubber band is but once the shield is secured in place it's not an issue. :)
https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7630/2...59710910_c.jpg

RivNuts and stainless button heads installed.
https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7244/2...8a2e7d95_c.jpg

Next I cut and drilled holes for mounting a top plate.
https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7451/2...de6e6472_c.jpg

Since aluminum absorbs heat so well I knew I needed to give this heat shield a fighting chance and I did that by adding this stuff.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7439/2...1fd58073_c.jpg

My stopping point for the day. . I ran out of rivnuts so I'll finish when I'm back home from work. Once this is finished I'll mock up an intake tube and I'll finally get to do some more testing.
https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7403/2...1a85acee_c.jpg

:awesome: Looking Good Zac

I've never seen that clear adhesive lined stuff.... good to know though ;)

Thanks!

Done with that!
https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7454/2...79ded8ab_z.jpg

looking good

Damn good job!

I didn't realize how HOT the engine bay gets until I started killing electronics!
I've killed a Crane Cams HI-6 within a year, and more recently, the heat was killing HID ballasts that I had stuff behind the headlights inside the engine bay.

Once moved outside of the engine bay, the electronics were a lot more happy.
The replacement Crane Cams HI-6 mounted on top of the driver's side brake duct lasted over 6 years!


-Ted

Now for a ducted radiator/vented hood.... ;)

Looks good. If ya can't duct it.... Fuck it.

Thanks guys!

You going to sell those? looks good Zach!