I would stay away from any multi function machine like that. Especially one as cheap as that. Did you read the warranty? limited 3 yr where you pay all the shipping after 30 days. Doesn't exactly sound like a company that stands behind thier product. Miller has a what? 5 yr warranty?
The dynasty's are expensive and ridiculoulsy flexible, to much for anything that I would do. I still say sync>econtig. Maybe used?

No the shower does, I'll call ya later. When are you back?

Saturday AM. Gone Wednesday PM.

fap. fap. fap. i need to learn how to fiberglass...

the phone pwns you again.

Fiberglassing is fun, between that and welding, there really isn't anything that you can't build..... add a CNC mill as well and sky's the limit.

Normally I'd say, "LOOK AT THE FRICKEIN TIME," but I was actually painting.......... until 6 in the morning.


So it looks like the "Do or Die Weekend," turns out to be a die... two things. I had my oil pump machined and it didn't show up on time. Can't finish the long block until Monday night at the earliest. The bigger dissapointment is DAVE GIBSON'S ENGINE BUILDING ABILITIES. Short story on how I came upon this motor. Someone spent 7 years and $25,000 on an FC project which included a Dave Gibson built, ported, REW ported housings, cryo treated bearings, etc etc etc. The straw in his project was when the motor seized after 25 minutes of idle. S6 thrust plates/bearing in an S4/5/cosmo stat gear = spun the main bearing, toasted the needles/thrust, ate the stat gear and cooked the e-shaft. Everything internally was is great shape, or so I thought. Even if I got a few plates, a rotor and a pair of housings out of it I would be happy. So $500 later and it's mine. Whats wrong with it, or what was wrong with it
I had to finish the intake porting, no polish, looked like he stopped after the stone and the ports themselves leave something to be desired.
RE housing, RE sleeves.. RE SLEEVES for a GT42 turbo
Non-coated bearings
& I guess tolerances don't mean shit for side seals, some were .03mm, others as high as .25mm. After a 6 hour marathon game of musical side seals and pulling some from the other blown Cosmo and from the n/a that I pulled apart, all but two are within .08-.05mm, 1 @ .1 and the last @ .15mm. I can live with that. The bottom line though is that not ONE of the seals that I took out I reused in thier original slot. Some I discarded all together. They either looked like they were clearanced with a bench grinder, had multiple angles on the seals, one was even missing a piece and it was on the housing side, not the spring side. How some people get decent reps is beyond me. I may actually start a seperate thread with pics of these seals, that's how disgusted I am.
So after sourcing a replacement set of housings and porting them, finishing the porting on the intake, re-clearancing all the seals, the motor is finally ready to be stacked, first thing tomorrow.

Some pic since the last update -

Fresh new engine bay - still wet - yummy

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1237701211

Shop cleanup day - the FC gets a little sun

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1237701211

Back inside and reassembly begins.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1237701211

I swear, engines are much more compact when they're assembled. Worst part is, that's not all the pieces either. I had everything ceramic coated in 3600* flat black. I for one can't wait to see it assembled

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1237701211

One more pic.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1237701211

Sucks to hear about your engine. I hope you get 'er put together and running on monday! Do it!

I should have a shortblock today, longblock Monday, maybe in the car Tuesday. I still have alot of little things to powdercoat and paint before the engine actually starts. I have some big things to powdercoat as well. I bought a piece of 2'x8' sheet steel to make an extension on my over to hopefully get the bigger pieces in. We'll see. If shes running by the end of the week, I'll be happy

That sucks man! Another reason why I am rebuilding my own engines from now on. You just cant trust another builder, regardless of reputation.

Hope the rest of the stack goes well! Good luck!

Looking good B. I'm sure you'll have it all back together soon enough.

Funny you mention Dave gibson engines.

I've seen a couple of plates he layed his "rotary air flow engingeering" degree on. Face, meet palm.

No you really can't. I have a friend who knows Gibson personally. I called her up to ask her opinion of his engine building skillz...... she didn't lie. But she choose her words carefully. Regardless, it was still the cheapest way to get this thing back together. And now I have a NEAR PERFECT set of RE Housings to sell too.... any takers?

The rest of the stack went..... meh. I had to do the front rotor twice because the assist piece kept breaking. I figured out the trick though,
take a piece of release tin foil and place on a flat surface.
apply glue
put pieces together
fold foil over apex seal and place a thin piece of sheet metal over joint
hold everything tightly for 60 seconds
peel foil off
using a razor, shave the glue away.

Then on the rear rotor I was removing a corner seal to set the apex springs in. The seal popped out and fell into a cooling passage :banghead: I got lucky and was able to retrieve it with a magnet. The last corner seal I pulled out with a magnet, as I will be doing for the rest of my life.

So the stacking went ok, but assembling everything has been slow and painfull. Everything being ceramic coated I'm chasing everyt thread and last night broke a tap in the turbine housing..... oh I was pissed. So now I've got a date at a machine shop later today.

Thanks T, looks like I had to order a few more little pieces that won't be here until Thursday. So I'm going to assemble everything I can and hopefully get it in the car Thursday night. Hopefully fired Friday, cruising around over the weekend.

What exactely was wrong with them? The shape of the ports, more exactely the "tips" weren't radiused much more than stock. They were cleaned up slightly, but nothing drastic. The finish on the ports looked like was just stoned, something that I really don't do alot of, most of my porting starts with a cutting bit, then I feather it in as much as possible, sometimes not even a single pass with a stone before going to the sandpaper rolls. WHen cleaning up Gibsons work, I used some med grit rolls and then alot of work with "the flapper". In my experience the flapper does a very good job of finishing off the port, especially where it meets the plate surface. It's slow going without a doubt, but it's always easier to take more material off than add some in :rofl:

Anyway, a few shots from the stacking adventures on Sunday

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1237908524

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1237908524

My newly acquired S5 n/a housings that I ported and swapped the sleeves on

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1237908524

The rear plate needed ALOT of work. Probably a good 45 minutes worth of clean up, here's the result though

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1237908524

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1237908524

The SLOW process of re-assembly begins

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1237909447

MMMMMMMMMMMM, ceramic coated goodies

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1237909447

And that'll do it for tonight. Need to powdercoat the waterpump ASSEMBLY as well as build a new 2-stroke tank. Chadwicks idler was bigger than I though and now my tank no fit no more. Nothing against the idler, its a beautiful piece, just slightly bigger than I thought it would be. Not a big deal though, perfect excuse to build a new tank, bigger and better fitting. The old one left something to be desired anyway, good excuse I guess. This will actually be the third tank..... I still don't know why things take me so long :rofl:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1237909447

Sounds like your engine adventures went a lot smoother than mine. I'm trying to figure out if I want to buy a pressure tester or build one from lowes/homedepot. For some reason I have 1 inner coolant o-ring left over. It's causing me to second guess my work so I'm going to pressure test the coolant passages to see if I did remember to install all the o-rings or if I just screwed up somewhere and forgot one o-ring. Honestly I don't think I screwed up but it's causing me enough doubt that I want to make sure. The funny thing is, I installed all the Outer rings--so I can't think of any reason why I would suddenly skip installing an inner ring since I do them both at the same time (outer and inner).

Sexy stuff man!

The ports I saw of dave's (no pics, although the guy who has the plates may...) was basically this. Picture a stock primary port, and monster street port on it. Now, instead of actually PORTING the runner and bowl to its new larger shape - you simply taper from the street port back into the stock port............yeah, seriously. I thought he was shitting me because I've seen some weird stuff, but that was a whole new level.

(The plates were out of their silver "800whatever-HP" widebody FC that barely even started)