Rotary Car Club - theorie's new Daily Driver. 1993 BB Base Model Build

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Manifold, wastegates, dump tubes, and turbo installed. Decided to not ceramic coat the manifold yet because I want to have EGT bungs installed first - instead sprayed it with clear VHT header spray to keep the manifold from surface rusting. Not gonna bother with that now though because I really want to get the car back on the road. ART also finished fabricating the downpipe and I wrapped it. Car might be running by this weekend...hopefully.

http://gallery.tfrascone.net/var/res...g?m=1399070407

http://gallery.tfrascone.net/var/res...g?m=1399070406

http://gallery.tfrascone.net/var/res...g?m=1399070417

anything to update this week, theorie? i just caught up on the last couple pages. very nice :)

i decided to go the other route (EFR 8374 IWG) instead of the airwerks series, mainly just to remove the complication of the dual wastegates, as the car sees a lot of track time. i was utilizing the MV-S water lines, and it was a little "complex," to say the least. at least the price of the expensive turbo was offset by a cheaper manifold and not having to purchase tial wastegates...

i'm interested to see how your response and power is with your medium-long runner 366 setup compared to my shorty manifold and much smaller 8374.

also: FD for a DAILY DRIVER? are you insane? :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by jacobcartmill (Post 282036)

anything to update this week, theorie? i just caught up on the last couple pages. very nice :)

Yep, got the car running last Thursday. Had a few issues though, all for the same reason: Previously the car had a modified AT engine harness installed...when I installed the rebuilt motor, I used a spare MT engine harness. Well I didn't realize that even doing that there would still be about a dozen wires that I needed to manually splice into the car's "front" body harness...

When I first went to start the car, the starter wouldn't crank. Got that fixed, then wasn't getting any power to the fuel injects. Got that fixed, then noticed the map sensor wasn't reading (it had no power or ground). All of these issues were due to me not hooking up wires from the X-05 connector on the MT engine harness.

After fixing those wiring issues, the car fired right up. Had to lean out he fuel map, but so far the car has been driving great. The motor definitely has very strong compression (thanks IR Performance!!!) and runs great so far. Now the break in begins...

I am convinced reading your threads forces me to spend money!

Sweet setup!

Well I've had the car back for a few days now, so here's a half-assed update. No pretty photos yet because the car needs a serious detail and I've only had time to give it a quick hand wash.

The car is running great and I'm really looking forward to tuning and turning up the boost. I've been driving around keeping it under 4000rpm and the turbo really wants to start pushing positive boost. I keep having to ease off the throttle to prevent that. I think this turbo is gonna be a lot of fun on this car...

I did a couple other things after getting the car back. As I mentioned before, this car was an auto-to-manual conversion and it was never really done right. I swapped the engine harness with a spare MT harness I had, when I installed the motor, but there were various other things that needed to get wired in, so I did those over the weekend. The first thing I did was wire the lower clutch switch inline after the OEM security relay - this makes it so the car won't start without the clutch to the floor. I also installed and wired in the upper clutch switch - the one that lets the ECU know the state of the clutch. I had to make the wiring for both since the car's AT "front harness" didn't have connectors for either.

The car also had 4 different sets of locks on it for some reason...I one key for the ignition, one for the doors, one for the trunk, and one for the bins (didn't even have that key). I decided to take the key sets off my silver FD since that's becoming more of a track car anyway. After swapping those onto the black car, it now requires only one key for everything (except the bins, oh well).

Swapping the door key cylinders was easy - each one took about 2 or 3 minutes to get the old one out and put the new one in. The trunk was kind of a pain because I had to partially remove the rear bumper. The ignition was a bit interesting - you can't just remove the cylinder, so the whole mechanism needs to be removed from the steering column. It's secured using two bolts but there's no hex or drive so you have to cut one using a Dremel with a cutoff wheel. After cutting a groove, you can screw them out using a flathead. Just for comparision, here's a pic of the automatic vs. manual versions - they're nearly identical except the automatic has some sort of extra sensor/switch. Now that my car is manual I'm pretty sure it's not needed to have that but I switched it over anyway.

http://gallery.tfrascone.net/var/res...g?m=1400506089

http://gallery.tfrascone.net/var/res...g?m=1400506089

AT ignition key mechanism on left, MT on right:
http://gallery.tfrascone.net/var/res...g?m=1400507095

You can see where I had to cut grooves in the heads of the bolts to unscrew them:
http://gallery.tfrascone.net/var/res...g?m=1400507214

I believe that extra module on the automatic ignition is an interlock that prevents you from removing the key/shutting down the car unless the trans is in Park.

Recharged the A/C yesterday using my Harbor Freight compressed-air-powered vacuum pump and A/C Manifold Gauge set.

I still had several bottles of ES-12a left over from the last time I charged my silver RX-7's A/C (that must have been like 4 years ago) and I had good results with that stuff so I used it again.

The first thing I did was pull a vacuum on the system to check for leaks. I let it sit for over half an hour and found it held just fine (no leaks!) and then released the vacuum (since you're not supposed to charge with a vacuum when using ES-12a).

I used about a can & 1/2 (and they are 6oz cans) to charge the system. At idle, this gave me about 45psi on the low side and 175 on the high side. The high side seems a little low, but that's expected when using this stuff, as I understand.

Anyway it blows nice and cold now. Haven't done a temp test yet - just glad it's blowing cold air with FL summer heat coming...

http://gallery.tfrascone.net/var/res...g?m=1400679982

http://gallery.tfrascone.net/var/res...g?m=1400680000

http://gallery.tfrascone.net/var/res...g?m=1400680146

http://gallery.tfrascone.net/var/res...g?m=1400680000

http://gallery.tfrascone.net/var/res...g?m=1400679982

Sweet. Maybe I'll use ES-12a when I charge my system too. Where did you get it?

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedjunkie (Post 282566)

Sweet. Maybe I'll use ES-12a when I charge my system too. Where did you get it?

I believe they don't sell it anymore, but this is very similar:

http://www.es-refrigerants.com/produ...an/details.asp

Haven't updated lately, but I'm now considering selling this car to help finance the purchase of a house...

More info here:
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...738#post286738

nice work on the AC. i recently charged mine (but had to make all custom lines because of my vmic) and used the air duster cans (R152A, diflouroethane) and it has been working very well for over a month now. total lifesaver.

i find it interesting that you're considering selling this car after all the hard work. i didn't see an asking price in your FS thread you linked above.