:willy_nilly:

You just need to believe in the love that exists between 2 dudes and you'll fit right in

Exhaust
Manifold
Absolute
Pressure

Talk to Glennypoo about it... as I'm assuming he's the one that talked you into the FPSI

Bite your tongue, it can be quite fun.

Again with the acronyms. I'm guessing FPSI is fuel pressure and actually he didn't. When i setup my fuel system i got done setting the 40psi at idle and shut the hood and thought lota good that gauge does. Did some reading found the pick up and ran some wires.

As for EMAP i honestly don't know what that would do for me. Enlighten me o mighty one. As long as i can get a 0-5v pickup i'm sure i could wire it into the haltech

:D why don't you go for broke and say how you REALLY feel about them?

Acrynoms are good... get up on them YLCSP :rofl:

EMAP is nice for tuning for a few reasons.... specifically for you and I, it allows us to see a better place to run the transition. There comes a point when the EMAP gets so high the turbo's are basically a cork in the exhaust killing power. Using the EMAP to set the transition allows for tuning a smoother one.

EMAP is also nice for tuning timing and you can use it to trim fuel while cruising.... but that's fancy Motec shit

My EMAP sensor is the same as yours and my MAP sensor, just plumbed differently

Acronyms sucks i work for a DoD contractor i hear enough of them at work.

I'm not sequential so i don't have a transition. But i see what your saying. So you run a basic 3bar GM MAP but run what a braided line from your DP into it?

I could have gone with suck 90yr old saggy testicles

Why bother with twins if they're non-sequential? I've been there and yeah its smooth, but damn that kick in the ass <2.5k is awesome

Running EMAP in the DP could be useful info, but it wouldn't help with the tuning aspect of it, the line needs to be pre-turbo. I've got an SS 1/8" to -3 adapter threaded into the manifold. From there I've got 2' of SS brake line. At the end of that is a female -3. Then 8" of -3 braided with a male crimped on one end, and a female on the other. The MAP sensor is mounted in a billet mount threaded for 1/8" npt, so you just thread your adapter in there and the braided line screws on. The nipple on the actual sensor presses into an o-ring in the mount, trick little piecem eliminates all the fluctuations and shit you get from vaccuum tubing and the chances of the line getting pierced or blowing off are basically nill.

sequential is fine... as long as you never spool the 2nd turbo... but after you play above 4000 (4500??) WOT, one turbo between 2500 -> 4000 (4500??) is just lag!!!

and of course, if you happen to be partial throttle... because, i dont know, you're playing in the mountains, you hit the tranisition point of the turbos and you don't have enough exhaust flow so you go from 7-8 lbs on one turbo to 0 LBS! on both turbos..and the car falls on its face...

and let's not even talk about what happens when your in the middle of a curve and the 2nd turbo decides it's time to spool!!! previous owner's hubby got a little scared when i did that... twice...

Because i couldn't afford a single at the time :lol:

I don't know if i'm sophisticated enough to pull something like that off. Perhaps something i'll look into when i get to single turboing the car

I dunno what you're talking about... I never once had those problems playing in the mountains. If you're a good little boy I'll let you play too ;)

Piece of cake man, when it's time, lemme know.... very easy to do

guess you were going too slow and are too low in your RPMs to have it be an issue =]

Will do. Hopefully the haltech will have enough input spots for all this...and don't even say go Motec a 5k ecu is not an option :lol:
OH SNAP!

Do an M84... its only a $2500 ecu :rofl:

Pffffft.... maybe I just didn't need boost to keep up with you :p

i was on bald tires... and doing the speed limit because i dont like giving $$ to TN...