You don't need new fog lights with the Mazdaspeed bumper, just the relocation kit. Mazda, or several places online sell it.

Just an FYI...

I'll weigh in:

Change out chattery clutch (if I can be not lazy)
Correct sloppy shifter
Add TII front lip
Add radio
Clean up a little wiring

Got a few new ones as of this weekend...

10. rebuild engine
11. paint engine bay
12. replace BRAND NEW oil cooler that got ripped off while trying to pull start
13. figure out why power steering is seeping

Damn Eric, What did you do now?

I got HID fog lights for christmas though.

Well it was on the dyno about to get tuned...LOL.

Put down 400whp (actually I think it was 394 to be exact but they told me 400) at 21psi and 4500RPMs lol. That whp is uncorrected, so true high altitude hp to the wheels, 27% power loss up here so real numbers closer to sea level would be closer to 470 I think. This was on a Dyno Dynamics as well, which I'm told read lower than some others, but I never know who to believe on this haha.

We hadn't even started tuning yet, and they forgot to turn off the boost controller for the first couple runs and let the WG spring take care of that. Only got two pulls and those numbers were from the second pull. When it was winding down the car died and never would start again. With the spark plugs out you can hear one face on each rotor isn't as strong as the others, so we're thinking side seals, either bad springs or they're melted LOL.

This weekend bent me over hard. I hemorraged money...between paying for the dyno and renting the trailer to tow my car home from north of Denver to C Springs, AND the damaged oil cooler from trying to pull start it. All for a non-running car. Pisses me off every time I think about it.

Ouch, sorry to hear it man.... that blows. What Apex Seals were you using? What where the AFR's? EGT's? Timing?

You could have just used the stock fog lights and used an HID kit. All you have to do is reach into the housing, squeeze the reflector, and pull it out. Then HID bulbs go right back in!!

Yes it does blow, and it did lol. I've been using Atkins seals, I got their whole rebuild kit back in 08. They told me the AFRs were in the 10s, but didn't say anything about EGTs and I'm not sure on timing either. EGTs were usually in the 14s on the highway, not quite open throttle but I don't think they were much higher than that.

10's are too rich IMO especially depending on the porting. I'd be curious to revisit your timing map and see where you were at for timing.

As for the Atkins seals... A good friend of mine refers to them as "fuses." Meaning that they usually let go before most of the other co's and when they do, they generally don't tear up the engine on their way out. I'd be curious as to what you find when you pull the thing apart. post pics, lots of them

Need to add to this list,

5. Brake lines, pads, and rotors
6. install light weight flywheel
7. fix multiple exhaust leaks

On most parts of the map I definitely agree, 10s are too rich, but under boost I'd rather have 10 than 14 haha.

Some have been telling me to get RA seals this time, I might go ahead and do that even if these aren't bad. I guess a good thing about Atkins seals is if they don't tear up the engine when they break...trying to look on the bright side of all this haha. I'll post a lot of pics. I'm going to clean up the garage and work bench and start draining fluids tonight, tomorrow night I might start pulling.

No doubt... But the richest I run is 11.7:1 and generally keep it around 12.

I have the RA Super seals.... on the way back I hit something like 17:1 while @ 10lbs of boost... she dett'ed HARD and she's still ticking.

They each have thier benefits I suppose. From what I hear... the Atikins seals are gentle when they let go. So I'd be interested to see what your housings look like.

List of to-do's: Rebuild, tires, radiator, clean up, enjoy.

Get a new set of tires.... Kumho's worn out.