Lol Brian, now you got me thinking what I can get away with...

Thanks for the help with the PM's man. So can I still get Stance CO's from Auto RND for 1000??

No worries Sean. I dunno about $1000. Call Rishie, that's who I bought them from. It was 2 years ago though sooooooo, I'm willing to bet that the prices changed. Damn, it WAS 2 years ago wasn't it..... shit.

I paid 1280 shipped for Stance GR+ Pros... that was the best price I could find a few months ago when I got mine.

Man I HATE this winter BS!! Doesn't matter I guess since the FC is wheel-less. I just want to get my rubber, coilovers and wrap up some loose ends and hit the road!!

Well here is a lttle update:

I finally got my Do-it-yourself wheel refurbish done on my poor condition Work Equips. After 6 grits o sandpaper and sme water and elbow grease, I have to say they came out great. There are some minor imperfections BUT frankly at this point I dont give two shits(it does slightly bother me though:)).

I had the centers powder coated here in town and he did a wonderful job for the price. I have one face that has some "acne" that hopefully I can wet sand but I am unsure if you can wet sand powder coating.?.?..I think it is in the clear coat, if so no biggy I can fix that.

All the bolts were in rusty shape and only 20 of the 128 came out bad. I had to order 15 more from WORK and they were $20 per 5!! :o11:

All that is left is to clean the old silicon off of the rim pieces and seal up. I wonder if I need to remove the powder coating on the outside diameter of the center face to better ensure a seal with the silicone upon assembly...anyone know??


Here are some pics:

Before: bad corrision as you can see:icon_tdown::icon_tdown:

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...project003.jpg
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...project004.jpg
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...project002.jpg
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...project001.jpg

After some sanding at 600 grit(still have 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000 to go:beatdeadhorse5:

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...oject001-1.jpg


Finished lips and newly coated "darker silver" centers

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...oject002-1.jpg
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...oject003-1.jpg

And the final project:001_005:

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/w...oject004-1.jpg



SOO much work but I found it ironic that i had to work for my WORK's HAHAHAHAHAHAHAH....
Tires are next: Falken FK-452's in 235/40 and 255/40.

Awaiting money for BC coilovers I am about to buy. Updates soon...........................................:ic on_tup:

Wheels looks great man! Way to put some elbow grease into it.

No doubt, nice job Sean :icon_tup:

Thanks dude!.......I have no finger prints on my thumb and pointer/middle fingers:rofl:

Thanks homie!!!



I am still wondering about the powder coat/sealing issue. I will have to research some more.

Nice job! Would have gone gold, but ya know :)

Its always nice when you can bring something back like that though and it probably saved you a ton over getting new wheels.


On the powdercoating question, I've never had to seal a PC part against a non-PC part but I would think you would be ok to not sand it off. The only catch would be that the PC was applied properly and is level...if it has any dips/changes in elevation I would sand it off to be safe.

Damn those look nice. Good work on your WORKs.

Makes me want to take apart those SSR's.........

:7: Bill, I'ma go rent me a trailer and I'll see you in the morning so we can load your car up, bring to the land of good taste and you can go buy a scubie :p

Agreed, as long as the coating is level, it shouldn't be a problem, however, if it went on thick, it may need to come down a bit.

Out of curiosity, as this was the debate that got me banned on the evil forum for calling out a newb on the subject, what temp were the centers baked too? was the temp brought down gradually? If you heat AL too much and/or bring it down too fast, you temper the material making it weaker. Now, I'm no metalurgist so I don't know the exact temps, but I do know that a standard powder like mine, that has to be baked @ 450*F is way to hot to use with wheels.

SSR's you say :suspect: You've got 3 months DJ!

I will have to ask what he baked it at. PC is SO common on alum wheels you think this issue would have been brought up many times. hmm...



I bet DJ's SSR's turn out sweet! It will be nice to see what color he changes them.

That's the thing that worries me though, that it has been done so many times and I would hate to see some guy thinking that becuase it has been done, it doesn't need to be done in any special way, and there is a right way and a wrong way. If the guy is good and experienced and knows his stuff, then I wouldn't worry, but if he doesn't and just knows how to spray some powder, than I would be a little concerned.

Like I said Sean, I don't know the specific temps, I just know that it needs to be low temp, well, lower than the standard Eastwood powder, and the temp needs to be brought up and down slowly.

Interesting you say that man because I called the guy who did my PC and was requesting he come look at the one center peice that has the dbris under the coating. Of course he was very professional and agreed to do it over for free. ANYHOW he started to explain how forged aluminum is very hard to get a good fishish on due to the baking temp.

I will met him this afternoon for him to pick up the one center and am DEFINATELY going to ask him what temp he bakes at for alum.

Sounds like he knows his stuff though and knows that AL needs less of a temp. What I like to do is bake my parts first to burn off the contaminents from the inside, then clean them again, then coat them. Works well on anything underhood that was exposed to oil and nastiness becuase it justs burns it off. Stinks like transient hooker ass but works well.