turns out a piece of that wire broke off inside there (maybe 2mm worth) had to switch to the next rack i had laying around.... lame!

Here is another tutorial in PDF format with all of the photos:

http://www.mediafire.com/view/l4lymb..._Rack_FD3S.pdf

I made that way back when I wanted to make sure I would have this tutorial when I was ready to do this myself.

---edit---

I de-powered my rack yesterday. Here are a few pics (CLICK picture for large size):

http://gallery.tfrascone.net/var/res...g?m=1372889481

http://gallery.tfrascone.net/var/res...g?m=1372889493

http://gallery.tfrascone.net/var/res...g?m=1372889754

New tie-rod ends from J-Auto.net:

http://gallery.tfrascone.net/var/res...g?m=1372889799

http://gallery.tfrascone.net/var/res...g?m=1372889808

http://gallery.tfrascone.net/var/res...g?m=1372889838

http://gallery.tfrascone.net/var/res...g?m=1372889864

http://gallery.tfrascone.net/var/res...g?m=1372889884

All back together (still waiting on the boots to come from J-Auto.net though:

http://gallery.tfrascone.net/var/res...g?m=1372889904

Maybe this was answered and I missed it, but the fittings that were removed. I assume they are just cut off and the holes welded shut? I'm having a hard time getting the hardlines out at those points and would really like to simply cut them off, or break the off. Breaking them off probably would make me feel better, but also probably isn't the best course of action.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...eeringrack.jpg

Also how do I get the outer tie rods to break free? Put a wrench on both the locking nut and tie rod and turn them opposite directions? I tried this after soaking them in PB Blaster with no luck. I was going to heat then up, but I was out of gas for my little torch.

^ Cut them off. I cut them off on a band saw in a matter of seconds, then welded the holes.

^^ that's what i did. Cut, welded, grind smooth

Yep, cut, weld, smooth, and paint!


This is what I did but I didn't have any difficulty. I also used a very large wrench so I was able to apply a lot of torque to the tie rod. I also didn't have any issues with damaged threads as mentioned in the original post.

The purpose of the lock nut is simply to hold the tie rod in place so that it doesn't walk its way in towards the car, correct? What I really need to focus on is breaking the tie rod free correct?

If that's the case, I may borrow a big pipe from work and put it over my vice grips. Do it similar to flywheel nut...though, hopefully having to use less torque :P

tie rods were easy for me. I had a hard time with the damn giant size locing ring for the pinion though. Mostly because i had to go and buy a silly huge pipe wrench to make it work.